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Spectator
5 days ago
- Spectator
Is the Lake District still as Wainwright described it?
The Lake District isn't really meant to be about eating. It's about walking and climbing and gawping. The guide one carries is not that by Michelin but Alfred Wainwright, whose seven-volume Pictorial Guide to the Lakeland Fells turns 70 this year. Food is mainly to be consumed from a Thermos rather than a bowl, and eaten atop a precariously balanced upturned log rather than a restaurant table. The culinary highlight should be Kendal mint cake, gratefully retrieved from the pocket of your cagoule. And so I was as surprised as anyone to find real gastronomic delights on a recent trip. Not from Little Chef, though that was where Wainwright religiously went for his favourite meal: fish and chips, a gooseberry pancake and cup of tea. While the fells may stand immutable, the culinary landscape of the Lakes is unrecognisable from Wainwright's day. Thus, in this polite slice of England, I found an operatic dollop of Italian gusto in Villa Positano, tucked off the high street in Bowness-on-Windermere. As with San Pietro nearby, it's all family-run charm with the odd culinary mishap waved away as trattoria rusticism in a way only an Italian can get away with. Together with a trendy sourdough pizza joint just up the road (Base Pizza), it appears a small group of Italians have decided they've had it with Lake Como and are making Lake Windermere home instead. Though no amount of tiramisu can surpass a sticky toffee pudding from Cartmel. Then there is the famed Sarah Nelson's Grasmere Gingerbread. Spicy and sweet, it is like the ginger nut of one's dreams. Wordsworth's grave is just around the corner, in the shadow of St Oswald's Church, and I wander lonely as a cloud through the wild daffodil garden planted in his honour. There is nothing wrong with cliché when it is this idyllic. In Ambleside there is lots to enjoy. The venerable Great North Pie Co (choose between chicken and Stornoway black pudding or 14-hour braised beef, Manchester union lager and Henderson's Relish). Serious fine dining is to be found at Lake Road Kitchen and Old Stamp House, both with Michelin stars. To enjoy a roast loin of the region's iconic Herdwick lamb, there is the beautiful restaurant at Rothay Manor. Or for ales brewed on-site and hunks of sourdough dipped into fir oil and stout vinegar, drop into the Drunken Duck Inn. You can munch on fish and chips at the Waterhead, overlooking Windermere. Though a sign advertises that the chips are fried in oil, not beef dripping, and the fish batter made without beer. That is nothing to show off about. What else? You can sit outside at the Windermere Jetty Museum's cafe, spotting fast jets on low-flying training manoeuvres from nearby RAF Spadeadam. In Grasmere, stop for coffee at Mathilde's, or on the little terrace of the Tea Gardens by the stream. Lunch at Lingholm Kitchen, walking off your meal in the walled garden as Beatrix Potter used to do. Dinner could be at Fellpack House in Keswick, The Schelly in Ambleside or Brackenrigg Inn in Ullswater, or more upmarket at Heft in High Newton, or The Cedar Tree at Farlam Hall near Brampton. Come morning, we report to a retro 1950s dining room, frozen in aspic. What follows is one of the best cooked breakfasts in the land The Lakes may boast the (three Michelin) starry heights of Simon Rogan's L'Enclume, but there are simpler culinary pleasures to be found from a rucksack. A picnic at Friars Crag in Keswick, or at Haystacks, Wainwright's favourite. A hunk of ewe's milk cheese nibbled under a tree near Cockshot Point. The contents of your hip flask while watching the sunset at Fleetwith Pike. Arriving in the driving rain to the Old Rectory near Coniston, there is complimentary hot tea and moist cake served from bone china. The lemon and poppy seed is homemade by Ann who runs the B&B assisted − or impeded − by her other half, Michael (half Falstaff half Manuel from Fawlty Towers). We fill out complicated forms for our breakfast order (I half expect a Farrow & Ball colour chart to pick my preferred tea strength) and, come morning, report to a retro 1950s dining room, frozen in aspic. A Japanese couple inspect the golden syrup with close fascination while a colossal Hyacinth Bucket holds a fan in one hand and skewers kiwi with the other. What follows is one of the best cooked breakfasts in the land – the Cumberland sausage dense, the Cumbrian back bacon just the right amount of crisp. Not even reading over breakfast of the sewage discharges into Windermere can ruin it. Ann troops out from the kitchen concerned my boiled eggs are too hard. They aren't; they are what all eggs should aspire to be. The eating options in the Lake District may be better now than in Wainwright's day, but the Lakes also differ in a way that would not have pleased him: the crowds. Alfred would go out of his way to avoid fellow hikers, seeking seclusion. 'There are boulders you can get behind,' he told Sue Lawley on Desert Island Discs. One can still find escape here thankfully (tip: the North Lakes are less crowded than the South) but nowadays, in peak season and good weather, to dodge other walkers you might have to hide behind your boulder for rather a long time before the coast is clear. Good food is good. But a soggy sandwich and a Kendal mint cake isn't bad, so long as it's consumed in the bliss of solitude.
BBC News
09-06-2025
- Politics
- BBC News
Calls for 'lifeline' bus cap to remain in place
Calls are being made for a "lifeline" cap on bus fares to remain, as the government prepares to announce its spending Farron, MP for Westmorland and Lonsdale in Cumbria, asked transport minister Heidi Alexander to commit to keeping the £3 cap to ensure people could "actually afford to get to work".The minister said any plans for bus fares would be announced on Wednesday, but she was "fully aware" of the importance of an affordable bus Nesbitt, 40, who lives in Kendal and works at Grasmere Gingerbread, said he noticed his bus to work had been much busier since the cap was introduced. The sales and merchandising manager said: "You definitely see more people on the buses now than you used to before the price cap came into play."It's quite a remote place to work in, Grasmere."It's not that far in mileage, but just in terms of day-to-day travel, anything that makes it as easy as possible and isn't causing a financial strain is something that should be welcomed."Farron told the transport minister that, before the price cap came in, the bus journey from Kendal to Ambleside was the second highest in the said with many people on low income working in Cumbria, high bus fares meant they could spend up to a quarter of their salaries on transport. 'Ease congestion' Mr Nesbitt said if the bus cap was to be removed his bus journey to work would be unaffordable."Going back to what it used to be - about £7 a journey or £50 a week for a pass - I just don't think I'd be able to sustain that long term," he said."Salaries do vary, but at least [the bus] is a lifeline that people can use to actually get here. "It's a job - you've got to take the job where you can get it."The Conservative government first introduced a cap on bus fares in 2023, meaning people would never pay more than £2 per single Labour came to power last year the new government chose to continue to fund it for 2025, capped at £3. Farron, a LibDem MP, said he would like to see the cap lowered to £2 again, to make transport "even more accessible."He said: "By making the bus fare cap permanent, we can help people with the cost of living, ease congestion on our busy roads, support struggling local businesses, and reduce our carbon emissions."Alexander said the £3 cap currently only applied to one in six journeys because people who used buses regularly to go to work used weekly or monthly passes, rather than buying single added: "I am fully aware of how important it is that people have an affordable bus network, that they have access to buses."That is something that I have been discussing a lot over recent weeks with the chancellor and we will be making making our announcement in due course."Government plans on the bus fare cap are expected to be announced on Wednesday. Follow BBC Cumbria on X, Facebook, Nextdoor and Instagram.
Yahoo
02-06-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Scrapping bus fare cap 'would hit tourism jobs'
High public transport costs are a barrier to employment in the tourism industry, a business group has warned. Cumbria Tourism said a survey of its businesses found 80% of employers worried the potential removal of the £3 cap on bus fares would impact their staff's ability to get to work. "There is concern for employers that if the cap is removed, staff may stop using buses due to cost and this could affect punctuality, job access and reliability," a spokesman said. The Department for Transport (DfT) said affordable buses were "the lifeblood of communities" and the cap would be in place until the end of 2025. Previously, the cost of single bus journeys had been capped at £2, rising to £3 in January. Cumbria Tourism, which represents 4,500 businesses in the area, said the cap had been a "lifeline" for staff who often work in remote hotels and restaurants around the county. Lesley Townson, who works at Lakeside Hotel, said the cap was a "game changer" as she did not drive. "If it increased, I'd either have to rely on others to provide lifts or cut back on essentials elsewhere - neither is a great option," she said. Cumbria Tourism said it had worked with bus providers and councils to make existing buses work for hospitality employees, with the introduction of early morning and later evening services. The association said its survey also found that 40% of workers had not used buses before the cap was introduced due to high costs. Kyle Nesbitt, who works at Grasmere Gingerbread, said: "The £3 bus fare makes it possible for me to get to work without it costing a large portion of my income each week." The DfT said it had put in place a £955m bus funding package to support lower fares. "Our Bus Services Bill will further empower local councils to take control of their services in ways that work for their communities," a spokesperson said. Follow BBC Cumbria on X, Facebook, Nextdoor and Instagram. Rural bus services handed £1.7m funding Region's bus fares to be capped at £2.50 Cumbria Tourism
The Independent
31-03-2025
- The Independent
The best towns and villages to visit in the Lake District
The Lake District is home to many lively market towns and quaint villages dotted between rugged fells and dramatic tarns. Although there are plenty of well-known spots with great accommodation options for visiting the region's beautiful landscapes, bases away from the most popular – and often crowded – areas are well worth exploring. Along pretty streets that boast artisanal shops and traditional pubs, visitors will find gastronomic wonders in the Lake's 13 Michelin-starred restaurants and can discover where the Lake District 's many renowned artists and writers have lived and worked. With cobbled streets, slate houses and trickling streams, it doesn't take long to understand the unrivalled artistic inspiration. Each town and village offers a different window to the glorious national park, so we've rounded up a few favourites for you to pick the best suit your trip. Grasmere Nestled among magnificent fells and a tranquil lake, Grasmere village is perfect for an relaxing stay with gentle walks and helpings of culture. It was a favoured spot for William Wordsworth and home to his Dove Cottage, where the poet wrote most of his major works. You can currently visit the cottage, along with a museum and gardens. Further artistic depictions of the area's beauty can be found at the Heaton Cooper Studio. Established by landscape artist Alfred Heaton Cooper in 1938, the gallery now runs three exhibitions showcasing the work of the Heaton Cooper family – artists who have shaped the way the Lake District has been cherished. If the sun is shining, hire a pretty pastel-coloured rowing boat at Faeryland Grasmere, before admiring the lake views with a speciality tea and scones at the tea room. Don't head home without some spicy-sweet gingerbread from the Grasmere Gingerbread shop. Where to stay Victorian House is a boutique hotel that's perfectly placed in the charming village. Choose from a handful of smart rooms finished with period quirks, or opt for their shepherd's hut to wake up surrounded by nature. In the morning, enjoy breakfast with peaceful views of the garden. Cartmel One of the prettiest villages in the Lakes, Cartmel is a great choice for excellent food, atmospheric drinking spots and shops selling local products. In the warmer months, the village square buzzes with outdoor eating and drinking. As well as a scattering of gastro pubs serving hearty British fare, the small village is home to two Michelin-starred restaurants, Rogan & Co and L'Enclume, both the work of Simon Rogan. Cartmel is also famous for sticky toffee pudding, which can be bought from the village shop, along with other puddings and deli foods. Walk off the indulgence by exploring Cartmel's medieval origins. A highlight is the 12th-century Cartmel Priory which has eight centuries of history. Where to stay L'Enclume is a the three Michelin-star restaurant with bedrooms and suites scattered around the village. Each room elegantly displays local craftsmanship and references to the village's history. All stays include breakfast at the Michelin-starred neighbourhood restaurant Rogan & Co, and guarantee a table reservation at L'Enclume. Troutbeck Troutbeck is a cluster of hamlets that cling to the hilly road from Windermere to Penrith. A stay here is ideal for anyone who wants to enjoy the fells, but you could also take a gentle stroll around the village, stopping at Jesus Church, which is home to stained-glass windows by Edward Burne-Jones and William Morris. Afterwards, the Queens Head offers a cosy spot for a drink or meal. Alternatively, tackle the heights of Wansfell Pike – a climb rewarded by brilliant views of Lake Windermere. Walking boots are recommended for the strenuous fell walk up to High Street, which reaches 828 metres, via the Ill Bell ridge. Back in the village, the Old Post Office Tea Room is a popular stop for walkers wishing to enjoy the views with homemade soups and cakes. Where to stay Family-run inn the Mortal Man is a great value option. With traditional 17th-century low-beamed rooms, open fires and horse brasses, it an atmospheric stay with characterful bedrooms. The hotel also boasts a large beer garden which is a great place to relax after a walk. Ambleside Ambleside is a lively town, which is notable for its shopping. Deli Rattle Ghyll is a wonderful spot to pick up take-away sandwiches and freshly baked pies, as well as local cheese and Winter Tarn Butter. A gorgeous selection of perfumes and natural skincare fills the shelves in The Bath House, while Fred's Bookshop is the place to find your holiday reading. Sample some local craft ales straight from their copper tanks at Tap Yard or taste the creative delights at Michelin-starred Lake Road Kitchen. The exquisite offerings include local produce with creative twists like Ōra king salmon, karebushi, tomato and maple dashi. A relaxed stroll can be enjoyed at Rothay Park, while the clamber up to Wansfell Pike unveils the best views. On the way up, stop at Stockghyll Waterfall – its cascading water promises is wonderfully dramatic. Where to stay The Drunken Duck is a country inn that's elegant yet down-to-earth. With cottage-style bedrooms finished with inviting furnishings, it's a 10-minute drive from Ambleside, but travelling out is worth it. Downstairs you'll find a characterful, cosy pub with its own microbrewery, but the inn's sleek restaurant, with its adventurous and flavoursome menu, is the main draw for guests. Keswick Keswick is a jolly market town with a broad range of activities on your doorstep, making it an ideal place to entertain the whole family. On a bright day, visit Castlerigg Stone Circle, one of the most dramatic and earliest stone circles in the UK dating to about 3000 BC. It's surrounded by glorious fells including Helvellyn and High Seat. In May, Keswick hosts one of the biggest mountain festivals. This family-friendly weekend is packed full of sporting events from trail runs to yoga, as well as live music and a programme of talks. On a rainy day, discover the history of the pencil at the Derwent Pencil Museum. Alternatively, catch a show at Keswick's Theatre by the Lake or go behind the scenes with a tour of whisky, gin, and vodka production at the Lakes Distillery, which finishes with a hosted sampling of the spirits. Where to stay Right in the centre of town, the Inn on The Square is a smart townhouse with slick Scandinavian design paired with charming Cumbrian features. There's a cocktail bar, a family-friendly pub and a steakhouse restaurant with an open kitchen. Coniston Coniston village is an ideal base for water sports and outdoor family activities. It sits on Coniston Water, which is a quieter lake than touristy Windermere, so your boating ventures will be less disturbed by tours. Choose from rowing boats, kayaks, canoes at Coniston Boating Centre, or take a relaxing cruise with Coniston Launch Co. Visit the Ruskin Museum to learn the story of Donald Campbell, who broke seven world water speed records, four of them on Coniston Water. His iconic hydroplane Bluebird K7 is a new feature in the museum. Where to stay Book the Coniston Inn for a classic Lakes hotel with good-value rooms and a family-friendly atmosphere. For hearty pub food and full Cumbrian breakfasts, grab a seat amongst electric memorabilia in the open-plan restaurant. It's ideal for access to the lake since it has its own jetty.
