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New York Times
5 days ago
- Entertainment
- New York Times
Cuerno New York Brings Carne Asada to Midtown
Opening Carne asada has made a comeback to what was known as Time & Life Building in Rockefeller Center. It was on the menu when La Fonda del Sol opened there in early 1960s. Like its predecessor, Cuerno occupies the ground floor but with a Josper charcoal oven used for grilling steaks. There are ceviches and other seafood preparations, tacos assembled tableside, and dishes like charcoal-roasted cauliflower by the executive chef Oriol Mendivil. Folkloric touches and a vibrant mural enliven the dining room, which seats 102 (plus another 100 or so at the bar, on the lower level and outdoors). 1271 Avenue of the Americas (51st Street), 332-269-0094, Midtown and the Upper East Side are no longer the sole hotbeds of top-of-the line French dining in New York. The latest addition is on the Lower East Side with the chef Richard Farnabe, who has put his stamp on many restaurants during his three decades in New York, including Mercer Kitchen and Picholine, in charge of the kitchen. It's the work of Nur Khan, who has a number of places in his quiver. The French menu with American elements includes tuna tartare, mushroom mille-feuille, gem lettuce salad with peanut dressing, Dover sole, duck breast and steak au poivre. The candlelit art-filled room is outfitted with plush banquettes and a marble bar. (Thursday) 217 Bowery (Rivington Street), 646-668-7738, An alternative to driving out to Montauk for a seaside supper is this City Island spot, where diners on a waterfront deck shaded by an awning can savor clams in white wine, hamachi tiradito, crab cakes, braised short ribs, lobster ravioli and paella marinera. But don't count on a lobster roll. The spacious restaurant, which also has indoor seating, is by Rafael Robles, who owns Vistamar nearby, and Josh DeCuffa, a City Island resident. The chef is José Castillo. 555 City Island Avenue (Cross Street), City Island, Bronx, 646-375-3133, The chef Peter He's Williamsburg restaurant has added an indoor-outdoor extension on the eighth floor, with a retractable roof and great views along with Sichuan sizzle. Small plates fired up with dan dan noodles and tamed with vegetable dumplings, among other dishes, can be paired with drinks like the Dragon Lagoon combining mezcal, lychee, lime and ginger. (Wednesday) Coda Williamsburg Hotel 160 North 12th Street (Berry Street), Williamsburg, Brooklyn, 516-960-1936, A 10-course omakase lunch on the run (one hour) is $60, and 15-course dinner (plus an appetizer, 90 minutes) is $100. It's owned by Denise Chung and her daughter, Ayana Chen, who have put the chef Jason Lin and his team at the 20-seat sushi counter. Dessert is extra and the bar is limited to wine, beer and sake. 1695 Broadway (53rd Street), 917-993-4528, Want all of The Times? Subscribe.
Forbes
11-05-2025
- Business
- Forbes
How To Eat And Drink Like The French At Home
With a little effort, you can create a truly authentic and enjoyable French dining experience right at your own table. If you're longing for the elegance and richness of French culture but can't make a trip anytime soon, you can still experience the essence of French dining right in your own home. By embracing the art of French cooking and wine selection, you can create an authentic French atmosphere that brings the flavors of France to your table. To begin your French culinary journey at home, consider starting with a lunch, as lunch is a cornerstone of traditional French dining. 'Lunch is still the bedrock of traditional French eating,' Florent Latour, CEO at Maison Louis Latour in Burgundy, France, said in a Zoom interview. The wine producer has been family-run for over 200 years. 'It's a time to savor food and enjoy a thoughtfully selected wine that complements the flavors of the meal.' When selecting wines, it's essential to follow the French approach, which Latour describes as 'methodical.' The French see wine as an integral part of the meal, chosen with care to highlight and enhance the dish. 'To create a true dining experience, it will start by treating your guests (or just yourself) to a selection of wines available at any moment,' said Christophe Tassan, a Rhône native and wine director and sommelier at The Battery, San Francisco, suggesting to accumulate a personal collection on-hand of several white wines, several reds, a couple of rosés and a sparkling to celebrate a special occasion. 'So when the menu is decided, the pleasure will be to choose the wines for it or having the guests choose from,' Tassan said. Tassan notes this doesn't mean having an expensive cellar, reminding that there are many French wineries producing good bottles under $20. Visiting your local wine shop is always a great first step for guidance. Customers can certainly rely on the retail shop staff and their recommendations. There are plenty of wine professionals available to assist, which is a key component in helping wine enthusiasts find their way to their preferences. 'I am not sure if this is specific to France, but great quality is surely a factor across its wine producing regions,' said Tassan. 'You can easily find a wine that is made for immediate enjoyment, and the ones that are worth cellaring for future enjoyment, from the 'Vin de Pays' to the AOC classifications.' Latour emphasizes the importance of understanding the "wine trajectory" in French dining. He explains, 'You start with some bubbly for apéritif, then move on to one white wine and one red wine. The timing of wines is defined by the host and is mostly driven by food pairings.' For example, a guest shouldn't request red wine at the beginning of the meal, even if it's their preference. The experience of drinking French wine isn't about quantity but about savoring small servings and moving up in wine quality as the meal progresses. Also, it cannot be overlooked that one of the defining characteristics of French wines is the concept of terroir, which Latour describes as 'the unique combination of soil, climate and vineyard location that gives each wine its distinctive character.' He stresses that understanding terroir is crucial for anyone looking to appreciate French wines fully. Labels on French wines often emphasize the place of production over grape variety, reflecting the significance of terroir. 'It's more about the sense of place than the grape itself,' Latour said. 'For example, the flavors of a Burgundy pinot noir are deeply influenced by where it's grown.' What is a French lunch without a glass of wine? To bring the full experience of French dining to your home, Latour recommends pairing wines with classic French dishes that can easily be prepared at home. Coq au Vin, for example, pairs well with a marsannay or santenay, while Beef Bourguignon is complemented by a robust pinot noir from the Côte de Nuits, a French wine region located in the northern part of the Côte d'Or, the limestone ridge at the heart of the Burgundy wine region. Quiche Lorraine–a savory tart with bacon, cheese and eggs—is ideally matched with a white Burgundy like chardonnay from the Côte de Beaune, such as meursault or Puligny-Montrachet, to balance the richness of eggs properly. And vegetarian favorite Ratatouille goes well with a chardonnay from Mâconnais or Chablis for its crispness. You could also try a pinot noir from Côte de Beaune for its bright red fruit. Latour also suggests more unconventional pairings, such as enjoying a Pouilly-Fuissé white wine with sushi or a Pernand-Vergelesses red wine with a chicken sandwich for a surprising but delightful experience. The French wine classification is based on the production area. Tassan acknowledges this 'is certainly complicated,' citing the Burgundy region being the greatest example of that classification. but it is the a good way to "organize" your preferences. 'Leading to the utmost perfection for the quality rating, based on the finished wine quality and exceptionally refined character, I believe that a wine has a quality when it can not be duplicated somewhere else,' Tassan said. 'The Terroir, the grape and its environment—including the human factor—are what make a wine unique. So my advice is be curious and try wines from all of the regions, and find the wine you like.' For those new to French wines, Latour offers some accessible and affordable options that provide a good introduction to the variety and richness of French viticulture. He recommends Maison Louis Latour's Bourgogne pinot noir, describing it as 'a standout choice for those new to Burgundy, featuring vibrant red fruit flavors, spices and subtle earthy notes at a reasonable price.' Another excellent option is the Pouilly-Fuissé, which Latour highlights for its 'elegant notes of ripe fruit, acacia, honeysuckle and minerality.' By following these guidelines and embracing the French way of dining and wine pairing, you can transport yourself to the heart of France without leaving your home. As Latour puts it, 'The magic of French wine lies in its diversity and the centuries of tradition that have perfected these pairings.'
