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Vogue Arabia

Is Bisabolol the Skin Barrier Superhero to Look Out For?

Skincare formulations include two categories of ingredients: those that make noise and go viral, and those that silently do the job without the fame. Bisabolol falls in the latter. A skincare underdog known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial properties, its powers have gone unnoticed for years — until now. So, what about this calming ingredient makes it a skin barrier superhero that deserves the spotlight? The experts weigh in. What is bisabolol? 'Bisabolol is the beauty industry's best-kept secret,' says Dr Suha Kersh, cosmetic physician and founder of 23MD. 'It's often a go-to ingredient for anyone dealing with sensitive, red, or irritated skin.' The naturally soothing compound is found in the German chamomile and the Brazilian candeia tree, and holds the skincare trifecta — anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant — making it quite the powerhouse in your routine, especially if you've overdosed on the skincare acids. What are its benefits and how is it different? While trending skin-calmers like ceramides, colloidal oatmeal, or niacinamide are extremely beneficial, Dr Kersh believes that not all soothing ingredients are made equal. 'What makes bisabolol stand out is its low risk of allergy, ability to deepen the penetration of other active ingredients, and multitasking nature — it's truly an all-rounder.' Unlike essential oils or synthetic compounds, bisabolol reduces redness and irritation without irritating the skin any further. According to Dr Jaishree Sharad, cosmetic dermatologist and founder of Skinfinitii Aesthetic Skin and Laser Clinic, the ingredient is great to include in a post-care routine after treatments like peels, lasers, or microneedling. 'Bisabolol also helps other skincare ingredients penetrate deeper into the skin, which is useful when you're using products like retinoids or azelaic acid,' she says. 'It's so effective and well-tolerated, even in skin that's damaged, which is what makes it a true gem in both medical and aesthetic dermatology.' It doesn't end there! Bisabolol is also said to be an excellent hydrator that supports the skin barrier and protects it from any sort of free radical damage caused by environmental stressors. Just like ceramides, it aids in healing the skin faster, allowing for any sort of damage to be repaired. 'It even helps brighten the skin,' adds Dr Kersh. Often found in post-procedure recovery creams, calming serums, and moisturisers, bisabolol is the perfect fit for most skin types, especially those with dehydrated or dry skin, sensitivity or irritation. It helps target rosacea, mild eczema, and even acne-prone skin, where inflammation needs to be controlled gently. According to Dr Sharad, due to its low irritancy and soothing profile, it is often used in under-eye creams and baby-care products too. Synergistic results Think of bisabolol as an all-around team player that can be deemed as the jack of all trades in skincare. 'It pairs well with retinoids, AHAs, BHAs, and even benzoyl peroxide and helps calm down any irritation these ingredients may cause, all while retaining their efficacy,' explains Dr Sharad. Bisabolol also gets along well with other barrier-support ingredients like niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, panthenol, and ceramides, too. Dr Kersh recommends using it with vitamin C and niacinamide for a brightening effect, azelaic acid and retinol for treating acne or ageing, and ceramides for barrier repair. 'Remember, this ingredient is your skin's support system — use it in a serum to reduce irritation from stronger actives and in a moisturiser to soothe and calm stressed or inflamed skin,' the expert suggests. Disclaimer: While bisabolol is a stable and non-reactive ingredient that works well in most skincare products, Dr Sharad warns to be careful pairing it with products that are heavily fragranced or have essential oils in them. Product recommendations: iS Clinical Pro-Heal Serum Advance + AED450 The Ordinary Soothing & Barrier Support Serum AED90 Estée Lauder Advanced Night Repair - Synchronized Multi-Recovery Complex AED330 SkinCeuticals Augustinus Bader La Roche-Posay La Roche Posay Cicaplast Baume B5 Healing Balm AED143 Kiehl's Calendula Serum-Infused Water Cream AED244