Latest news with #Disfrutar
Hindustan Times
2 days ago
- General
- Hindustan Times
Rude Food by Vir Sanghvi: Insta made me eat it
There are more restaurants in India than ever before. There are more cuisines available than we have ever known. And , inevitably, there are more menu clichés (what we call 'food trends ' when we are being polite) than we have ever seen. Call me a jaded old bore, but these are the current trends/clichés that I hate the most. Dirty Sandwiches There has always been a distinction between the European conception of a sandwich and its American counterpart. In Europe, sandwiches are clever combinations of ingredients that you can enjoy without feeling that a vat of ketchup has fallen on you. The classic American sandwich has usually been a little fatter (the Reuben, the Hero, the hamburger etc) and has required you to open your mouth really wide while simultaneously ensuring that ingredients don't drop out of the sandwich as you are eating it. That's fine with me, but what I object to is the trend to over-sauce sandwiches to create the so-called Dirty Sandwich. This kind of sandwich contains so much ketchup, mayo, melted cheese, hot sauce etc, that it is supposed to make your face dirty from all the sauce that will smear itself around your mouth or drip down to the front of your shirt. We have imported this trend and I really don't see the point. Loaded Fries The French Fry is one of the world's great culinary inventions and its many variations (matchstick fries, steak fries, shoestring fries, triple-cooked chips, etc) are delicious when made fresh with the right kind of potato. So, why do you need to dirty it? It's the same phenomenon as the Dirty Sandwich. They pour melted cheese on the fries or douse them in truffle oil (more about which later) or drown them in some tomato-chilli sauce. I cannot, for the life of me, figure out why they need to do this. Do these people not really like fries? Is that why they have to destroy their natural flavour and texture? Matcha Just as we mindlessly import trends from America, the Americans themselves have long abused Japanese cuisine by plundering its flavours, dishes and ingredients for rubbish variations. One example is matcha, a specific kind of Japanese green tea powder, which has a distinctive flavour (if you use real matcha, which people outside Japan often don't) that I enjoy. But now, bogus matcha is used to flavour everything, partly because the real matcha is expensive and, thanks to massive demand from America, in short supply. You will get matcha versions of all kinds of food and drink now, from martinis to dumplings, and even when the Matcha flavour does not taste obviously fake, I have to say that I am fed up of the matcha overload and the extent to which people use it because it's trendy or they saw it on TikTok. Fermentation and Foraging Oriel Castro, who was head chef at El Bulli, and now owns the three-Michelin-star Disfrutar, held a super class (full disclosure: As Chairman of Culinary Culture I helped organise it) in Delhi last month and demonstrated how he had taken forward the techniques he had created with Ferran Adrià at El Bulli. A fair number of India's great chefs flew in to attend it, and I think all of them had the same thought as me: It is a shame that the advances of El Bulli and Disfrutar have come to be represented by talentless imitators who spherify liquids and put foams on everything. I feel the same way about the Noma legacy. If you talk to René Redzepi or eat at Noma, you realise that his food is about understanding the world around us and enjoying the best that the earth has to offer. But like El Bulli (where Redzepi once worked) Noma has been ill-served by its imitators who think that the food is only about foraging and fermentation. There is nothing I find more annoying than a chef who thinks that if he can pick up some dodgy-tasting leaves in a forest and ferment them for six weeks he can be the next René Redzepi. Cheesecake I love cheesecake, as I have often said on these pages. I am not snobbish about it; I grew up on frozen Birds Eye cheesecake not on some chefy version. But now, as we are overwhelmed by an avalanche of cheesecake, all I can say is: Enough already! My major problem with the cheesecakes I find at most places is that they are not very good. They are usually made by people who have no love of cheesecake but are simply replicating recipes they found on YouTube. Three years ago, they all made Biscoff cheesecake because the internet was full of videos that promoted a Belgian brand of Speculoo biscuits made by a company called Lotus. Because Speculoo is a ridiculous name, the biscuits were called Biscoff (short for 'biscuit with coffee' ) outside Belgium. The Biscoff cheesecake used a Speculoo base and (sometimes) Biscoff paste (a sort of Nutella for biscuit lovers). The people who made the cheesecake focused on the industrial Biscoff flavour rather than the cake. Now, because the internet is full of recipes for Basque cheesecake, the same people have switched to making that. Basque cheesecake is not a traditional recipe, but is simply a cheesecake created by a restaurant in San Sebastián in 1988, which made a normal cheesecake but burnt the top. Nigella Lawson made it famous in 2020/2021 and now, people act like it's the only cheesecake that matters. It's not. And I do wish people would go back to more interesting versions. Truffle oil It does not smell like truffles, but because of its low prices and ubiquity, people have actually begun to think that this is the aroma of truffles, having never smelled the real thing. I don't mind that it's fake. I have no strong views on vanillin, for instance, the bogus vanilla that is usually used in India, because it costs next to nothing. My problem with truffle oil is that it smells disgusting. To be in a restaurant that is serving truffle oil is like encountering a herd of farting goats. If you are unfortunate enough to consume it, the stink will stay with you: You will burp it up for hours afterwards! And yet, all Indian chefs use truffle oil, claiming 'this is what the market demands'. And finally As you can tell from this rant, I have only just hit my stride. Expect another instalment soon! From HT Brunch, June 21, 2025 Follow us on
Mint
09-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Mint
When chef Oriol Castro tried ‘rasmalai'
You need to book a table at least a year in advance to dine at Disfrutar, the 50-seater Mediterranean restaurant in Barcelona, which was founded in 2014 by chefs Oriol Castro, Mateu Casañas and Eduard Xatruch. For those not familiar with Disfrutar (meaning 'enjoy' in Spanish), it was awarded the World's Best Restaurant last year by the World's 50 Best Restaurants list, a status it continues to hold so far. Disfrutar serves 30 courses between two menus—Classic and The Festival—and is known for its 'multi-spherification' technique—which unfolds through a complex series of steps that induce diverse flavours. Think spheres made out of peas, bell peppers, caviar, tomatoes, pineapple, olive and corn. There's even a table that comes to life as diners gasp and immerse themselves in the inventive gastronomic experience. The three chefs met and trained professionally, and have continued to build on what their mentor chef Ferran Adrià, of the legendary restaurant elBulli taught them. After elBulli shut down in 2011, Castro, Casanas, and Xatruch joined forces to launch restaurants such as Compartir (the first one opened in 2012 in Cadaqués, while the other in 2022 in Barcelona), and Disfrutar. Also read: Disfrutar versus Noma: A tale of two Michelin meals Castro, 51, was in India recently as part of Culinary Culture's 'Global Culinary Exchange' programme, to interact and host a cooking masterclass at The Oberoi, New Delhi. In a candid conversation, Castro, with help from his sous chef Eric Andrada (who doubles as his translator), talks about his mother's paella, his mentor, and why passion and creativity are the reasons behind Disfrutar's number one position. Edited excerpts: What are your earliest memories of food, and what are some of the dishes that remind you of home? My memories of food are not about one or two dishes, but rather a complete experience of sitting together with my loved ones at one big table, with conversations flowing and various dishes being passed around. I remember going to the mountains and eating almonds. I can still remember the taste —that's a memory filled with emotion, and it will always remain with me. Having said that, if I close my eyes even for a moment, I can see food prepared by my mother: paella, stew, baked asparagus, roast chicken, and frikandel (minced meat sausage). Observing her and my grandmother in the kitchen inspired me to become a chef. What is the biggest lesson you've learnt from your mentor Ferran Adria? You have mentioned in your interviews the equal contribution of Juli Soler (Adria's partner at elBulli) in your culinary journey? elBulli is in my DNA. Being in that restaurant helped me to understand myself, and allowed me to create, experiment, and invent. Adria taught us to find innovative ways to approach a dish, and how to look, feel, and experiment with ingredients, and remain dedicated and passionate every day. He always advocated for doing better than yesterday and learning a little more than it. That attitude allows me to keep showing up every day. What, according to you, makes Disfrutar the best in the world? We don't just cook, we cook with emotion, and I think that translates into good food. I also believe that while we continue to experiment and evolve, we have not forgotten our core identity. Our Mediterranean heritage is reflected in the food we serve, even though it is avant-garde. Additionally, every day, when we are in the kitchen, we discover new ways to excel. Keeping ourselves on our toes, without resting on our laurels, keeps us going. I also don't believe in keeping our cooking techniques as secrets. The joy of cooking or doing anything creative lies in sharing them with the world. How do diners react after eating in Disfrutar? Look, I am aware that people wait to dine in Disfrutar. But, it's an experience for many of them, particularly those dining for the first time. I've seen many patrons cry after they've had a meal. [laughs] These are tears of joy, and it means a lot when people appreciate your work without saying anything. Their reaction is enough to make me understand they've enjoyed the experience. How do you stay consistently inspired? I'm very persistent, very emotional. While I'm always trying out new ways to experiment, I'm not a fan of the terminology of 'molecular gastronomy', which can be misused or applied very loosely. Technique without flavour is a failure. We are cooks, not scientists. For me, constantly seeking inspiration keeps me motivated. You must be excited at every step and in every moment of your life. Even on days when I'm feeling low, I seek inspiration in some form or another to keep going. Remember, the present and the future come from working passionately. What are your thoughts on Indian food? Have you ever been curious about our traditional recipes and cooking styles, and how have they inspired you? Thanks to Culinary Culture, Oberoi Hotel and Don Julio, I have been able to visit India for the first time. I am going to experiment with rice fermentation techniques that I have come across here. I'm always on the lookout to learn more about traditional cooking techniques — pickling, fermentation, smoking, steaming, and there are many of these in India. The cuisine, much like the Spanish region, is so varied. The dishes are packed with flavours, an ode to the heritage and vibrant culinary culture of the country. I tried rasmalai, and it reminded me of a Spanish sweet dish that's similar in concept. I think there will soon be an Indian-inspired dish on our menu. What are the foods that you have tried in India and where, and what has intrigued you the most? I've thoroughly enjoyed my meals at Bukhara, Dhilli (chef Vineet Bhatia MBE-mentored restaurant in Oberoi, New Delhi), Indian Accent, Inja, and Amar Vilas in Agra. I loved seeing the Taj Mahal. It's captivating. On the food front, the biryanis, appams, raitas, and a host of other dishes have contributed to a fantastic dining experience. I can't wait to be back. Also read: Making food is like entering an art gallery, says Ana Roš Abhilasha Ojha is a Delhi-based writer.
Hindustan Times
06-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Hindustan Times
From Biryani to Black Salt—A Michelin star's culinary exploration in India
Celebrated Spanish chef Oriol Castro, one of the visionaries behind Disfrutar, the Michelin-starred Barcelona restaurant currently ranked #1 on the World's 50 Best Restaurants list (2024), recently visited India for the first time. Known globally for pushing the boundaries of modern gastronomy through bold creativity and precision, Chef Castro shared his reflections on Indian cuisine, culinary philosophy, and the power of passion in an exclusive interview. It's been wonderful—my first time in India, and I am very happy. We've been eating a lot! We tried biryani, which I absolutely loved—not just for the flavours but also the technique behind it. That really stood out to me, especially because Disfrutar is a highly technical restaurant. Cooking and then eating biryani—it was an immersive experience. Oriol joined Vir Sanghvi, Chairman, Culinary Culture for a special Culinary Conversation on at The Oberoi, New Delhi and hosted the first-ever superclass in India, showcasing their marquee dishes. I really enjoyed South Indian bread—appam, and of course, butter chicken. We visited many restaurants, and each had its own uniqueness. We went to Indian Accent, Bukhara - ITC Maurya, Inja, and Dhilli—all of them were wonderful in their own way. It's important to see the authentic side of a country when you travel. At Khari Baoli's spice market, I wanted to explore the seasonal ingredients and local culture. We bought some masala blends—they prepared one specially for us, explaining the uniqueness of each spice. I am yet to figure out on how we'll use it at Disfrutar, but it was an inspiring moment. Yes—black salt. I had heard about it before, but now I understand its complexity. It's very special, and I'm excited to work with it back home. Whenever we develop a new dish, we stay focused on the essence of the ingredient. Even with all the technical work we do, we never want to lose that. It's not just about technique—it's about preserving flavour and soul. Fusion should never become confusion. At Inja, the chef explained the dishes so well that the experience was clear and enjoyable. Sometimes, context is everything—when the concept is well explained, the dish speaks louder. Not just mine. Disfrutar is a collaborative effort between myself, Eduard Xatruch and Mateu Casañas. It's not about individual credit—the project is bigger than the person. That philosophy has shaped our work from the beginning. Of course—there's always pressure. Even yesterday, before a cooking demo, we felt it. But pressure is important—it means you care, and it pushes you to give your best. Being ranked number one means people expect a lot, and we embrace that. Passion. That's the one thing you truly need. If you have passion, everything else will follow. Everywhere. You can catch inspiration from anywhere—360 degrees around you. It's always a work in progress. Everything takes time. You don't achieve things overnight. It's about taking baby steps, being consistent, and never losing your passion. Chef Oriol Castro's journey through India may have been brief, but the flavours, colours, and ideas he encountered here have clearly left their mark. With an open mind and relentless creativity, he continues to remind us that the best food doesn't just surprise the palate—it tells a story.
The Age
06-06-2025
- Entertainment
- The Age
Sydney fine-diner moves up in the World's 50 Best Restaurants longlist
In late May, Mindy Woods – owner-chef of Karkalla On Country near Byron Bay – received the World's 50 Best Restaurants Champions of Change Award. Woods, a Bundjalung woman, was the first Indigenous woman to appear on MasterChef Australia. She was named a Champion of Change for using her platform to blend cultures and empower the community, and cultivate a more inclusive food industry that supports minority voices. Meanwhile, Central Otago destination diner Amisfield became the first New Zealand restaurant to appear on the World's 50 Best list in its 23-year-history, scraping in at 99th. It is unlikely any other Australian venues will feature on the list, which last year crowned Barcelona's Disfrutar as the 'world's best restaurant'. (A four-hour tasting menu at Disfrutar costs around $500 before drinks and may feature a dish called 'Fear: The Prawn', where guests are asked to hunt through dry-ice vapour with bare hands to retrieve the shellfish.) The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2025 longlist
Sydney Morning Herald
06-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Sydney Morning Herald
Sydney fine-diner moves up in the World's 50 Best Restaurants longlist
In late May, Mindy Woods – owner-chef of Karkalla On Country near Byron Bay – received the World's 50 Best Restaurants Champions of Change Award. Woods, a Bundjalung woman, was the first Indigenous woman to appear on MasterChef Australia. She was named a Champion of Change for using her platform to blend cultures and empower the community, and cultivate a more inclusive food industry that supports minority voices. Meanwhile, Central Otago destination diner Amisfield became the first New Zealand restaurant to appear on the World's 50 Best list in its 23-year-history, scraping in at 99th. It is unlikely any other Australian venues will feature on the list, which last year crowned Barcelona's Disfrutar as the 'world's best restaurant'. (A four-hour tasting menu at Disfrutar costs around $500 before drinks and may feature a dish called 'Fear: The Prawn', where guests are asked to hunt through dry-ice vapour with bare hands to retrieve the shellfish.) The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2025 longlist
