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Dyeing for change: Why microbes could clean up fashion's toxic mess
Dyeing for change: Why microbes could clean up fashion's toxic mess

Forbes

time9 hours ago

  • Science
  • Forbes

Dyeing for change: Why microbes could clean up fashion's toxic mess

Three different microbial pigments Colorifix What comes to mind first when you think about the environmental cost of what we wear every day? Fossil-fuel fabrics, overflowing landfills and underpaid labour are often front and centre of the conversation, and rightly so. But what rarely makes it into the headlines - is dye - the stuff that makes our clothes colourful. Textile dyeing is actually one of the most chemically intensive and polluting elements of garment production, accounting for roughly 20% of global industrial water pollution. The vast majority of dyes in use today are made from petrochemicals, derived from crude oil. And the amount of water required in the process is staggering. A single pair of blue denim jeans can take up to 7,000 litres of water to produce. Plus, the indigo hue is synthetic and involves toxic chemicals and heavy metals in its manufacturing. In factories all over the world, from China to Bangladesh, these pollutants are dumped untreated into rivers, poisoning ecosystems and endangering communities. It's a problem that sits in plain sight, literally on our backs, yet remains largely missing from the sustainable fashion discourse. Synthetic dyes are cheap, efficient and industrially embedded. They provide a wide colour spectrum, which brands like, and deliver predictable results - perhaps why no viable solution has been able to compete. Natural dyes made out of plants have been used for centuries, but their problem? The colours tend to be earthy and dull and, crucially, don't stick to the fabric and eventually fade. One British breakthrough may have solved the problem, by inventing a 'green' dye (not literally) that meets the industry's rigorous expectations. It's scaleable - and that means there is potential to disrupt the status quo. Instead of mining oil or boiling vats of chemicals, Colorifix uses engineered microorganisms, (essentially programmable microbes) to grow colours in the lab. Fed with sugar and salt to create a specific pigment, these microbes act like miniature factories, brewing vibrant dyes that are transferred directly onto fabric using a fraction of the water and none of the toxic additives. Fed with sugar and salt to create a specific pigment, the microbes act like miniature factories, brewing vibrant dyes. The idea first emerged from a very different kind of lab, out in nature. In 2012, two University of Cambridge researchers were studying polluted drinking water in rural Nepal. They used bacteria to detect contaminants in water, which had been engineered to change colour in the presence of specific chemicals - a simple, visual indicator for unsafe water. But as they spoke with local communities about the root causes, the answer kept circling back to the same culprit: textile dye. So instead of building tools to detect pollution, they pivoted to tackling the source of it directly, by using DNA sequencing found in our natural world. Say, the genetic code for blue in a butterfly wing, or the pink of a flower petal. By using DNA sequencing, they can copy the genetic code for a blue butterfly wing. 'Synthetic dyes are very well studied and substantiated in the textiles industry - but we're doing our own analysis from scratch,' explains co-founder Jim Ajioka. 'Growing the microorganism is a natural process, but we have modified it, to make the colours of other living organisms.' 'We get inspiration from nature - rather than extracting from nature,' says the other co-founder Orr Yarkoni. Their approach is so radical that it has been recognised royally in the UK. Colorifix became a finalist for the Earthshot Prize in 2023, a yearly contest led by Prince William to find the world's most promising environmental solutions. The Prize is often said to have been inspired by JFK's 'Moonshot' and was designed to incentivise tipping-point innovations. It has five categories, nature protection, clean air, oceans, climate and the one Colorifix competed in, waste-free solutions. Finalists receive mentorship and access to a network of global businesses, investors, and environmental organisations ready to help scale their ideas. The Prince visited the lab this week to praise founders Yarkoni and Ajioka on their science-led approach. 'It's really exciting and I know you're going to push into the industry very quickly,' he told the team. 'It's really exciting and I know you're going to push into the industry very quickly.' The microbial dye solution is already moving beyond the lab. In the last few years, it has received significant funding from highstreet brand H&M (here's a t-shirt dyed by Colorifix). H&M's innovation arm has invested in pilot dyeing projects in Portugal, where the startup's biologically grown pigments were used on items produced for both H&M and Pangaia. This marked one of the first real-world commercial applications of the technology. Today, Colorifix has just closed a $18 million Series B2 round, led by Inter IKEA Group, to fuel global commercial expansion. 'This investment marks a critical milestone as we shift from proving our technology to delivering it at industrial scale,' Yarkoni tells me. Colorifix has just closed a $18 million investment from IKEA to fuel global commercial expansion. Linn Clabburn from IKEA's innovation arm agrees. 'Colorifix is addressing one of the toughest sustainability challenges in textiles,' she says. Their progress in scaling this tech and entering new markets 'aligns well' with IKEA's ambitions to improve sustainability in the value chain, she adds. It's a vote of confidence not just in the science, but in the market's readiness for a pioneering solution. Unlike other sustainable alternatives that require entire factories to be revamped, Colorifix's process is essentially plug-and-play and compatible with existing industrial dyeing equipment. That means factories don't need to overhaul infrastructure to adopt it, which removes one of the biggest barriers to sustainable innovation: cost and complexity. The potential ripple effect is huge. If Colorifix can roll out its microbial dyeing process across fashion and homeware with some of the biggest household names, it could help detoxify one of the most water and chemical-intensive elements of garment production. Transforming a $2 trillion-dollar supply chain does not come without its challenges. Colorifix's technology may be simple to implement, but scaling it globally means convincing the big names this is the right idea for them, never mind navigating strict regulatory frameworks. Textile manufacturers, often operating on razor-thin margins, can be slow to adopt new methods - especially in regions where environmental protocols are lax and synthetic dyes remain cheap and abundant. Yet, momentum is building. Colorifix is already working with mills in Portugal, India and Brazil, with plans to expand into Southeast Asia, one of the largest dyeing hubs in the world. 'We are sure to make a difference.' And the prospects don't stop at fabric. The founders say their microbial process could one day be adapted for other industries like cosmetics and hair dye. When Prince William comes to visit a project like this, he isn't just there to tick a box. The Earthshot Prize was clearly designed to elevate this kind of bold, science-based solution with the power to transform entire systems. In fashion, that means anywhere we use colour, microbes could one day replace petrochemicals. 'Over the last few years, we have gone from grammes to tonnes of fabric per week,' says Yarkoni. 'We are sure to make a difference.'

William and Cate Blanchett hit sustainable fashion lab
William and Cate Blanchett hit sustainable fashion lab

The Advertiser

time12 hours ago

  • Entertainment
  • The Advertiser

William and Cate Blanchett hit sustainable fashion lab

The Prince of Wales and Cate Blanchett have donned lab coats as they witnessed the high-tech work of an environmentally friendly clothes dye company. William and the Australian Oscar winner visited labs in Norwich on Thursday where Colorifix, a biotechnology firm, creates its textile dyes. Colorifix, which was a finalist in William's Earthshot Prize in 2023, has developed a biological process that replaces the use of harmful chemicals in textile dyes. Since it was founded in 2016, the brand has partnered with fashion brands including H&M and Pangaia. As William and Blanchett were taken through each step of the process to make the eco-friendly dyes, the Prince of Wales asked Sophie Vaud, the head of microbial engineering, to provide a "layman's version" of the science. After identifying a colour created naturally by an animal or plant, Colorifix's scientists sequence the DNA of that organism to find out where the colour is coded in its genetics. That DNA code is then translated into a safe microbe that is then fermented to grow, creating a dye that can be used on natural and synthetic fabrics. Dyes made chemically have a negative impact on the environment as they seep into rivers, harming wildlife. The process also uses a large amount of water. The Prince of Wales and Blanchett, a council member of the Earthshot Prize, were invited to observe DNA gel under a microscope and were shown diagrams analysing the effectiveness of the pigments. "What if it explodes?" Blanchett joked before looking at the sample. "I'm not going to pretend I know what that drawing means," William told the experts when being shown diagrams. The pair were then taken through the fermentation process, which is where the dye is produced in a small version that can be scaled up. David Clarke, head of fermentation at Colorifix, which is based in Norwich Research Park on the edge of the city, said their fermentation to produce the dyes was "just like brewing". "We use a genetically engineered bacteria to produce the substance - in this case colourants. "Traditional dyeing is very, very polluting. This is completely innocuous." The Prince of Wales is founder and president of the global environmental award and Blanchett helps pick the winners. "It's going really well, and it's really exciting," he said, while Blanchett told them their work was "really inspiring". The Prince of Wales and Cate Blanchett have donned lab coats as they witnessed the high-tech work of an environmentally friendly clothes dye company. William and the Australian Oscar winner visited labs in Norwich on Thursday where Colorifix, a biotechnology firm, creates its textile dyes. Colorifix, which was a finalist in William's Earthshot Prize in 2023, has developed a biological process that replaces the use of harmful chemicals in textile dyes. Since it was founded in 2016, the brand has partnered with fashion brands including H&M and Pangaia. As William and Blanchett were taken through each step of the process to make the eco-friendly dyes, the Prince of Wales asked Sophie Vaud, the head of microbial engineering, to provide a "layman's version" of the science. After identifying a colour created naturally by an animal or plant, Colorifix's scientists sequence the DNA of that organism to find out where the colour is coded in its genetics. That DNA code is then translated into a safe microbe that is then fermented to grow, creating a dye that can be used on natural and synthetic fabrics. Dyes made chemically have a negative impact on the environment as they seep into rivers, harming wildlife. The process also uses a large amount of water. The Prince of Wales and Blanchett, a council member of the Earthshot Prize, were invited to observe DNA gel under a microscope and were shown diagrams analysing the effectiveness of the pigments. "What if it explodes?" Blanchett joked before looking at the sample. "I'm not going to pretend I know what that drawing means," William told the experts when being shown diagrams. The pair were then taken through the fermentation process, which is where the dye is produced in a small version that can be scaled up. David Clarke, head of fermentation at Colorifix, which is based in Norwich Research Park on the edge of the city, said their fermentation to produce the dyes was "just like brewing". "We use a genetically engineered bacteria to produce the substance - in this case colourants. "Traditional dyeing is very, very polluting. This is completely innocuous." The Prince of Wales is founder and president of the global environmental award and Blanchett helps pick the winners. "It's going really well, and it's really exciting," he said, while Blanchett told them their work was "really inspiring". The Prince of Wales and Cate Blanchett have donned lab coats as they witnessed the high-tech work of an environmentally friendly clothes dye company. William and the Australian Oscar winner visited labs in Norwich on Thursday where Colorifix, a biotechnology firm, creates its textile dyes. Colorifix, which was a finalist in William's Earthshot Prize in 2023, has developed a biological process that replaces the use of harmful chemicals in textile dyes. Since it was founded in 2016, the brand has partnered with fashion brands including H&M and Pangaia. As William and Blanchett were taken through each step of the process to make the eco-friendly dyes, the Prince of Wales asked Sophie Vaud, the head of microbial engineering, to provide a "layman's version" of the science. After identifying a colour created naturally by an animal or plant, Colorifix's scientists sequence the DNA of that organism to find out where the colour is coded in its genetics. That DNA code is then translated into a safe microbe that is then fermented to grow, creating a dye that can be used on natural and synthetic fabrics. Dyes made chemically have a negative impact on the environment as they seep into rivers, harming wildlife. The process also uses a large amount of water. The Prince of Wales and Blanchett, a council member of the Earthshot Prize, were invited to observe DNA gel under a microscope and were shown diagrams analysing the effectiveness of the pigments. "What if it explodes?" Blanchett joked before looking at the sample. "I'm not going to pretend I know what that drawing means," William told the experts when being shown diagrams. The pair were then taken through the fermentation process, which is where the dye is produced in a small version that can be scaled up. David Clarke, head of fermentation at Colorifix, which is based in Norwich Research Park on the edge of the city, said their fermentation to produce the dyes was "just like brewing". "We use a genetically engineered bacteria to produce the substance - in this case colourants. "Traditional dyeing is very, very polluting. This is completely innocuous." The Prince of Wales is founder and president of the global environmental award and Blanchett helps pick the winners. "It's going really well, and it's really exciting," he said, while Blanchett told them their work was "really inspiring". The Prince of Wales and Cate Blanchett have donned lab coats as they witnessed the high-tech work of an environmentally friendly clothes dye company. William and the Australian Oscar winner visited labs in Norwich on Thursday where Colorifix, a biotechnology firm, creates its textile dyes. Colorifix, which was a finalist in William's Earthshot Prize in 2023, has developed a biological process that replaces the use of harmful chemicals in textile dyes. Since it was founded in 2016, the brand has partnered with fashion brands including H&M and Pangaia. As William and Blanchett were taken through each step of the process to make the eco-friendly dyes, the Prince of Wales asked Sophie Vaud, the head of microbial engineering, to provide a "layman's version" of the science. After identifying a colour created naturally by an animal or plant, Colorifix's scientists sequence the DNA of that organism to find out where the colour is coded in its genetics. That DNA code is then translated into a safe microbe that is then fermented to grow, creating a dye that can be used on natural and synthetic fabrics. Dyes made chemically have a negative impact on the environment as they seep into rivers, harming wildlife. The process also uses a large amount of water. The Prince of Wales and Blanchett, a council member of the Earthshot Prize, were invited to observe DNA gel under a microscope and were shown diagrams analysing the effectiveness of the pigments. "What if it explodes?" Blanchett joked before looking at the sample. "I'm not going to pretend I know what that drawing means," William told the experts when being shown diagrams. The pair were then taken through the fermentation process, which is where the dye is produced in a small version that can be scaled up. David Clarke, head of fermentation at Colorifix, which is based in Norwich Research Park on the edge of the city, said their fermentation to produce the dyes was "just like brewing". "We use a genetically engineered bacteria to produce the substance - in this case colourants. "Traditional dyeing is very, very polluting. This is completely innocuous." The Prince of Wales is founder and president of the global environmental award and Blanchett helps pick the winners. "It's going really well, and it's really exciting," he said, while Blanchett told them their work was "really inspiring".

William and Cate Blanchett hit sustainable fashion lab
William and Cate Blanchett hit sustainable fashion lab

Perth Now

time13 hours ago

  • Entertainment
  • Perth Now

William and Cate Blanchett hit sustainable fashion lab

The Prince of Wales and Cate Blanchett have donned lab coats as they witnessed the high-tech work of an environmentally friendly clothes dye company. William and the Australian Oscar winner visited labs in Norwich on Thursday where Colorifix, a biotechnology firm, creates its textile dyes. Colorifix, which was a finalist in William's Earthshot Prize in 2023, has developed a biological process that replaces the use of harmful chemicals in textile dyes. Since it was founded in 2016, the brand has partnered with fashion brands including H&M and Pangaia. As William and Blanchett were taken through each step of the process to make the eco-friendly dyes, the Prince of Wales asked Sophie Vaud, the head of microbial engineering, to provide a "layman's version" of the science. After identifying a colour created naturally by an animal or plant, Colorifix's scientists sequence the DNA of that organism to find out where the colour is coded in its genetics. That DNA code is then translated into a safe microbe that is then fermented to grow, creating a dye that can be used on natural and synthetic fabrics. Dyes made chemically have a negative impact on the environment as they seep into rivers, harming wildlife. The process also uses a large amount of water. The Prince of Wales and Blanchett, a council member of the Earthshot Prize, were invited to observe DNA gel under a microscope and were shown diagrams analysing the effectiveness of the pigments. "What if it explodes?" Blanchett joked before looking at the sample. "I'm not going to pretend I know what that drawing means," William told the experts when being shown diagrams. The pair were then taken through the fermentation process, which is where the dye is produced in a small version that can be scaled up. David Clarke, head of fermentation at Colorifix, which is based in Norwich Research Park on the edge of the city, said their fermentation to produce the dyes was "just like brewing". "We use a genetically engineered bacteria to produce the substance - in this case colourants. "Traditional dyeing is very, very polluting. This is completely innocuous." The Prince of Wales is founder and president of the global environmental award and Blanchett helps pick the winners. "It's going really well, and it's really exciting," he said, while Blanchett told them their work was "really inspiring".

Prince of Wales and Cate Blanchett don lab coats to see eco brand at work
Prince of Wales and Cate Blanchett don lab coats to see eco brand at work

Glasgow Times

time16 hours ago

  • Entertainment
  • Glasgow Times

Prince of Wales and Cate Blanchett don lab coats to see eco brand at work

William and the actress visited labs in Norwich on Thursday where Colorifix, a biotechnology firm, creates its textile dyes. Colorifix, which was a finalist in William's Earthshot Prize in 2023, has developed a biological process that replaces the use of harmful chemicals in textile dyes. Since it was founded in 2016, the brand has partnered with fashion brands including H&M and Pangaia. Willam and Cate Blanchett listen during the visit to Colorifix (Eddie Mulholland/Daily Telegraph/PA) As William and Blanchett were taken through each step of the process to make the eco-friendly dyes, the Prince of Wales asked Sophie Vaud, the head of microbial engineering, to provide a 'layman's version' of the science. After identifying a colour created naturally by an animal or plant, Colorifix's scientists sequence the DNA of that organism to find out where the colour is coded in its genetics. That DNA code is then translated into a safe microbe which is then fermented to grow, creating a dye that can be used on natural and synthetic fabrics. Dyes made chemically have a negative impact on the environment as they seep into rivers, harming wildlife. The process also uses a large amount of water. The Prince of Wales and Blanchett, a council member of the Earthshot Prize, were invited to observe DNA gel under a microscope and were shown diagrams analysing the effectiveness of the pigments. 'What if it explodes?' Blanchett, joked before looking at the sample. 'I'm not going to pretend I know what that drawing means,' William told the experts when being shown diagrams. The pair were then taken through the fermentation process which is where the dye is produced in a small version which can be scaled up. William complimented the staff for their 'fantastic' work (Eddie Mulholland/Daily Telegraph/PA) David Clarke, head of fermentation at Colorifix, which is based in Norwich Research Park on the edge of the city, said their fermentation to produce the dyes is 'just like brewing'. 'We use a genetically-engineered bacteria to produce the substance – in this case colourants. In the brewing industry it's ethanol. 'Traditional dyeing is very, very polluting. This is completely innocuous.' William and Blanchett were wowed by the range of colours produced when shown samples in the colouration lab, especially a bright teal. In that lab, the dyes are sampled on a range of fabrics and then washed and tumble dried to test how they work and if there is any run off. Rebecca Hiscock, a colouration technician, showed them some of the samples. 'It's like Blue Peter – here's one I made earlier,' William said. Meeting the rest of the Colorifix team, the Prince of Wales said: 'Sorry for all the stupid questions you'll hear about later.' He complimented the staff for their 'fantastic' work since Colorifix got to the final of the Earthshot Prize two years ago. The Prince of Wales is founder and president of the global environmental award and Blanchett helps pick the winners. 'It's going really well, and it's really exciting,' he said, while Blanchett told them their work was 'really inspiring'.

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