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Telegraph
6 days ago
- Telegraph
Following in my grandparents' footsteps on a 130-year-old cruise
'To the people in the north of Norway, Hurtigruten has been everything. Transporting medicine, clothes, fresh fish, local people going to hospital' Gunnar, the captain of the Kong Harald, explained as we pass the Arctic Circle. I was on board the Coastal Express, the historic postal ship that has operated in Norway since 1893 – 132 years ago. Hurtigruten translates as 'fast route' in English, and the ship connects various coastal communities, with the voyage becoming more popular with tourists in recent decades. I asked him if he still considers it a ferry or a cruise, and he replied with a smile. 'Somewhere in-between. Years ago it would have been mainly local people taking short trips as they didn't have any other options, but now with cars and airports we need the tourists to keep the route running.' The ships still deliver cargo, and I was told that the most photographed thing on board was the forklift, which shifted the crates on and off the ship each time we stopped – 34 times, between Bergen to Kirkenes – although given the ethereal landscapes we passed, I took this fact with a pinch of salt. But I was aboard for more than just beautiful views. My grandparents chose to take the same journey in 1968 for their first overseas holiday, so this sailing was, for me, also a voyage into the past. My grandfather, a farmer and captain of the Home Guard, and my grandmother, a racehorse trainer and member of the Constantine shipping family, were both passionate lovers of the outdoors. They honeymooned on the Isle of Skye and took regular trips to Scotland, where my Grandad, a keen falconer, would spot birds of prey. They were drawn, inevitably, to Norway's wildlife and natural beauty – changing from the snowy scenes of the north to the green pastures on the approach to Bergen. I've always felt a sadness that I never had the opportunity to know my grandparents – as they had both passed by the time I turned five – and had clung to titbits of information about their interests and personalities in order to forge a connection with them. Despite having travelled to more than 90 countries, I'd not yet made it to Scandinavia, so discovering that I could take the very journey they once did felt like a way to bridge time, and build a sense of shared experience through our travels. Stops in port varied from 10 minutes to a couple of hours, and at Stokmarknes I disembarked at the Hurtigruten museum to see the fully preserved MS Finnmarken from 1956, very similar to the ship my grandparents would have sailed on. The main difference, I noted, was that the old ships had first- and second- class dining rooms and cabins, as well as a large post office and lounges for games. I saw old menus on display showing salted cod and salmon, and recalled my mother saying that my grandma had talked passionately about 'the fish platters' after their trip. The food on board the Kong Harald was a stand out for me, too, with meals including aqua-vit herring, piles of smoked salmon, and crab topped with trout roe. Head chef Roy has worked with Hurtigruten for 42 years and has seen the change over the decades from silver service to a more relaxed dining experience, without formal dress codes. Long careers with Hurtigruten seem commonplace, and the team are like family to one another, spending Christmases together and decorating cabins for passengers on board, many of whom travel the route regularly. Until the early 2000s, the majority of passengers were still Norwegians, though the 1960s saw an increase in foreign tourists, particularly from the UK and Germany. The uptick must have been sizable, as my grandparents coincidentally saw another couple from the same small village in North Yorkshire on their ship. The husband, presuming he wouldn't see anybody he knew, had chosen the opportunity to debut a new faux hairstyle. So the story goes, he was so embarrassed when he spotted my Grandad, that he threw the toupee overboard. He might have avoided the humiliation had he been on my sailing, as there was none of the enforced socialising you see on most cruises – just announcements as we passed significant places, which drew people away from the lounge and onto the top decks to mingle. The arctic circle crossing was celebrated with shots of cod liver oil and a toast with Havets Bobler – a sparkling wine aged under Norwegian waters – and as we sailed under the bridge over the Risøy channel, Norwegian flags were handed out for us to wave at passing traffic. I spent a lot of my time on the top deck, where passengers sit in a glass-windowed viewing area, where the only important decision to be made is which side to watch from. There's a Norwegian word – kos – which means sharing simple pleasures, and this lounge is the epitome of that. Passengers knitted, read books and simply watched the fjords roll by, their banks dotted with rust-red houses. With the exception of the digital cameras, you could imagine passengers 50 years ago enjoying the same simplicity. Even the excursions I joined – which, as I found out from a historic poster on the ship's bridge, have been running in some form for decades – are focused on timelessly Norwegian elements. A walk around Hammerfest – the self proclaimed 'northernmost city in the world', or a sea eagle-spotting boat trip near picturesque Trollfjord, are both experiences unlikely to have changed much at all in the past decades. As we headed back to the Kong Harald from Trollfjord – the sea eagles swooping down around us – the captain showed me his clicker had hit 75 sightings in just one day. Given my grandparents' interest in wildlife, I could easily picture them, half a century before, as awed by their surroundings as I was. Throughout the week, I'd been questioning Hurtigruten veterans about how the route had evolved since the 1960s, hoping to piece together what my grandparents might have seen and felt. But in doing so, I came to realise that it was the enduring similarities, not the changes, that left the deepest impression. Even in my lifetime, I've revisited places only to be disappointed by how time had reshaped them, but here it felt as though little might have changed at all. I'll be forever grateful to the Norwegian coastline, and to this little voyage, for giving me a moment of connection with the family members I never got to know, decades in the making. Essentials The Coastal Express has multiple sailings throughout the week, with northbound, southbound and return journeys from £1,354 per person. Tickets can be booked together with flights from London or Manchester.
Telegraph
04-02-2025
- Telegraph
Why a Hurtigruten Cruise is the best way to see the northern lights
There is nothing quite like witnessing the northern lights in person as the sky dances with a life-affirming light show. And there is no better way to savour this natural wonder than on board a Hurtigruten cruise, the local Norwegian experts since 1893, on whose ships it's a sheer joy to sail. The northern lights, or the aurora borealis, grace us with their presence when the sun's charged particles hit the earth's atmosphere. They are the world's most spectacular natural movie, exploding across the skies with shimmering pink, burning red, pure purple and emerald green curtains of light. No wonder they have long brought drama to folklore. The past few years have been blessed with even more frequent and dramatic northern lights displays, so there has never been a better time to enjoy them. Being at sea on board Hurtigruten away from ambient light offers such a superb chance of seeing the northern lights that, if you don't spot our celestial friends during a journey of 11 days or more in season, you receive a free six or seven-day Coastal Express trip. The peak viewing season normally runs from October (in 2024 it was even earlier in September), through to the end of March. A Hurtigruten Cruise offers the perfect chance to gaze upon Norway's natural light show Credit : Espen Mills The Norwegian coast, which eases above the Arctic Circle at 66 degrees north, and directly beneath the Auroral Oval, is rightly renowned for its active displays, with the ship's bridge officers always scanning the skies to be the first to spot the aurora and set spirits soaring with an announcement to guests. How about dining under the northern lights, or even bubbling away in an outdoor hot tub as they dance above? Or gazing up into the wonders of the universe at the Northern Lights Planetarium in Tromsø, the home of the northern lights. Quite simply, Hurtigruten is Norwegian cruising. It is no ordinary cruise line, with unparalleled experience and a continuing commitment to the seas, skies and lands it serves. Sustainability has always been at its core and it is currently in the midst of its most ambitious sustainability drive ever, as it aims to develop zero-emission ships by 2030, further protecting the land of the northern lights and its pristine nature. Hurtigruten cruises are perfect for people who wish to learn in an illuminating lecture and immerse themselves in the richness of local culture. Nature lovers adore Hurtigruten too, appreciating the wonder of the night skies viewed from the water. Hurtigruten Cruises feature comfortable and stylish interiors to enjoy the captivating views Credit : Espen Mills You are spoilt for choice with Hurtigruten's options to see the northern lights. Join one of the full-board Original Voyages on the authentic Coastal Express, cruising with Norwegians to up to 34 diverse ports on a historic world-famous route that has been connecting local communities for more than 130 years. On board you'll be treated to fresh local produce they pick up in 15 of the ports The Coastal Express sails to as part of Hurtigruten's 'Norway's Coastal Kitchen'. How about a dedicated 12-day The Coastal Express – Northern Lights adventure; a 12-day Bergen-Bergen Astronomy Voyage with a dedicated astronomer aboard; or the odyssey of a 16-day Complete Norway – Northern Lights voyage combined with a rail journey? You'll already be dreaming of the northern lights as the excitement builds while you pore over the choices at home. Hurtigruten's premium Signature Voyages, meanwhile, offer all-inclusive food and beverages. Peer out of floor-to-ceiling windows at the northern lights as you savour fresh Norwegian produce from 50 local producers – think delicious Vesterålen cod, artisan Lofoten cheese and crisp Bergen craft beer. Then head out with the larger Coastal Experience Team – they can offer photography tips for the northern lights and delve deeper into their magic. Working with local experts you can pick unique excursions too, such as cross-country skiing or snowshoeing. Hurtigruten offers various cruises to the northern lights, each showcasing the best of the Norwegian coast along the way Credit : Tommy Simonsen Explore the North Cape Line, Signature-style, with 15 days and 14 ports, journeying from Oslo to Honningsvåg. Or try the Savour the Northern Lights cruise from Oslo to Helsinki, which takes in seven ports and three countries across a fortnight. What are you waiting for? The northern lights, one of life's true bucket-list experiences, await aboard Hurtigruten, with a bountiful smörgåsbord of cruise options. Experience authentic Norway With more than 130 years of experience in Norwegian coastal cruising, Hurtigruten Cruises delivers an unparalleled experience with fascinating excursions, breathtaking views, and locally sourced dishes that offer a true taste of Norway. Book your voyage today at and save up to 25 per cent on Original Voyages and up to 15 per cent on Signature Voyages for departures until April 2026. Book by 3 March 2025.
Telegraph
04-02-2025
- Telegraph
These unique cruise excursions are the perfect way to experience Norway
With more than 130 years' experience of sailing along the spectacular coast of Norway, no other line offers such an authentic experience as Hurtigruten. This is reflected in myriad opportunities to get beneath the country's beautiful skin through activities that vary from gently paced to downright thrilling. It is possible to love these cruises without even leaving the ship – watching from the deck as supplies are unloaded at hamlets that are only reachable by sea, for example, and admiring the ever-changing, mesmerising seascapes. However, the optional excursions chosen by Hurtigruten will considerably enhance any visit to Norway. Here's a selection of the most memorable from the three key voyages – and don't forget to book them early as these small-group experiences do sell out. The Coastal Express On this much-loved round trip from Bergen to Kirkenes and back, one of the most unusual trips beckons from the small city of Bodø. Across the bay, Saltstraumen features the world's most powerful tidal current, where millions of tons of water are forced through this narrow strait at speeds of up to 23mph, four times each day. These mighty currents form churning whirlpools. There are two ways to view this natural phenomenon – from land via a scenic bus ride, or on an exciting RIB safari. It's also worth looking out for sea eagles on this excursion. The popular Coastal Express cruises from Bergen to Kirkenes and back, through the famous Saltstraumen strait Credit : Getty The Lofoten Islands will break the bank of superlatives due to their beauty. There's deep history here, too – and for an outstanding memory, accept the Viking chieftain's invitation to his home for a lavish Norse feast. A bus tour through the jagged peaks and past serene bays will take you to the Lofotr Viking Museum, housed in a superb recreation of a 1,000-year-old longhouse. Take your seat for traditional food washed down with mead, music and song and dance, with performers in Viking costumes. Guests will learn about the rituals, legends and lifestyle of Norway from the distant past. The Svalbard Line With such a rare opportunity to travel to the Svalbard archipelago, taking in as much as possible is essential. Hurtigruten's history and wildlife experience involves first travelling to Camp Barentz in a remote valley about 10 miles outside Longyearbyen. Here you'll be introduced to the friendly huskies and their mushers – a vital form of transport in winter. There's also a presentation about the region's large number of polar bears. After coffee and warm waffles, the excellent Svalbard Museum beckons back in town, depicting hundreds of years of the archipelago's history along with its wildlife. Deep in the Svalbard archipelago lies the remote town of Longyearbyen, an arctic beauty Credit : Shutterstock In the stunning Lofoten Islands, the extended time in port offered by this cruise means in-depth activities can be enjoyed. Why not try your hand at fishing in the archipelago's nutrient-rich waters? Board a sturdy, traditional fishing cutter that dates back to 1917 and the captain will help you to catch haddock, mackerel and cod, with all equipment provided. Even if the fish aren't biting, the views are superb. The North Cape Line Many of the excursions on The Svalbard Line are also available on The North Cape Line, but this cruise's Oslo-Bergen round trip has its own opportunities. Kristiansand is today a charming place but has a dark Second World War history. Expert guides will show you the Batterie Vara, a naval cannon – the world's second-largest – installed by the Germans at their fort. For a leisurely tour with a difference, jump on an electric bike for a guided, open-air exploration of Tromsø, gateway to the magical Arctic Circle. Over three hours, your ride will encompass the city's best sandy beach at Butka, as well as visiting the birdwatching paradise of Prestvannet Lake and exploring the Tromsø Arctic-Alpine Botanical Garden before finishing back in downtown Tromsø and returning to the ship. If you're looking ahead to the winter, you won't want to miss out on an excursion that revels in the charm of a Norwegian Christmas. You'll take in stunning woodland sights before settling down for a festive feast of pinnekjøtt lamb ribs, Norwegian sausage, and plenty more culinary delights. Experience authentic Norway With more than 130 years of experience in Norwegian coastal cruising, Hurtigruten Cruises delivers an unparalleled experience with fascinating excursions, breathtaking views, and locally sourced dishes that offer a true taste of Norway. Book your voyage today at and save up to 25 per cent on Original Voyages and up to 15 per cent on Signature Voyages for departures until April 2026. Book by 3 March 2025.
The Independent
28-01-2025
- The Independent
Culture cruise: From galleries and museums to cuisine, delve into enriching Norwegian experiences
Culture lovers will feel right at home in Norway. Whether you want to delve into its ancient Viking history, learn more about Norwegian traditions, or just explore the countless museums and galleries, there is something for all curious culture seekers. From the colourful fishing villages of Lofoten to the Indigenous Sámi traditions in the north, Norway's got it all. The best way to learn about the Norwegian way of life is to go on a Hurtigruten cruise alongside their local Coastal Experience Team, who know Norway better than anyone. Between them, they have many years of knowledge and are on hand to help you delve deep into Norway's compelling culture. They also provide unique experiences beyond typical tourist spots, with specialised team members hosting lectures and leading optional, guided hikes and activities. Choose from an Original Voyage or a Signature Voyage, both offering the chance to wholly experience Norwegian history and culture. The former follows the original Coastal Express route founded by Hurtigruten over 130 years ago, traversing up to 34 diverse ports, with opportunities to hop off and explore charming towns, fascinating sites and local experiences, and enjoy delicious Norwegian dishes as you sail, with regional ingredients sourced along the way. While on premium Signature Voyages, you can enjoy a journey around up to 14 handpicked destinations. Between lengthy on-shore visits, you can enjoy all-inclusive options at the onboard restaurants serving fine Norwegian cuisine amid exquisite surroundings. Every meal tells a story of Norway's bountiful coastline, from fresh Arctic char and cod to cloudberries and reindeer on to discover cultural must-sees and dos you can experience en route… Coastal hotspots and cultural gems Start your cultural exploration in Bergen, Norway's second-largest city and the starting point for the iconic Coastal Express route, founded in 1893 and one many describe as the world's most beautiful voyage. This old city goes back to the year 1070 and is brimming with cultural hotspots, like the UNESCO-listed wharves of the colourful Bryggen district. If you have time before you depart, grab lunch from the famous fish market before swinging by the KODE art museum, where you can see works from iconic Norwegian artists like Edvard Munch. You could also hop on the Fløibanen funicular to Mount Fløyen for epic views of the city and surrounding fjords. Further along the route, you'll visit the Trøndelag region, Norway's third-largest city, dotted with historic buildings like Nidaros Cathedral, nicknamed Norway's Notre Dame. It's considered the most sacred building in all of Norway and sits side by side with the Archbishop's Palace, home to Norway's crown jewels belonging to the monarchy, dating back more than a thousand years. The Lofoten Islands are a highlight on the Coastal Express route. This stunning archipelago is known for its towering peaks, fishing villages, and thriving art scene. Visit local galleries scattered around the region, each housing a curated collection that tells a story inspired by the soaring Lofoten peaks and the Arctic waters. Magic Ice Lofoten in Svolvær celebrates ice art and coastal culture, while The Glass Hut Vikten is on the outskirts of the island Flakstadøya and is all about rustic works of art made from glass, inspired by the rugged nature of Norway. And if you want to explore the landscapes behind this, there are also plenty of hiking trails leading to breathtaking viewpoints or the chance to kayak among the waterways. Sámi culture and Arctic highlights Some routes also stop at Mehamn, where you can go on an excursion among the Sámi, Europe's northernmost indigenous people. Sámi history and culture are deeply connected to Arctic nature, which has played a pivotal role in their traditional nomadic way of life. They're known for their reindeer herding, traditional crafts, and unbreakable bond with nature. You'll get to spend some time alongside a Sámi family and learn about their traditions, reindeer culture, and traditional crafts, known as duodji. You'll also have ample time to explore Tromsø on Hurtigruten's North Cape Line on one of their premium, all-inclusive Signature Voyages. It's the gateway to the Arctic and home to the Polar Museum, where you can learn all about exploration in the region. The Northern Norway Art Museum here celebrates Norwegian and international art, including contemporary Northern and Sámi art and crafts. You'll have plenty of time here, so enjoy a meal at Bardus in Tromsø for authentic Norwegian dishes, like reindeer steak with lingonberries, or try Fiskekompaniet for locally sourced fish and shellfish, all prepared in a traditional Norwegian way. Whether feasting on fish in Tromsø or gallivanting around the museums of Lofoten, Hurtigruten Cruises provide the perfect way to get to know the history, heritage and culture of Norway alongside those who know it best.
