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UN Ocean Conference: Why The Key To Ending Ocean Plastic Starts On Land, And Why Southeast Asia Is The Smart Money Play
UN Ocean Conference: Why The Key To Ending Ocean Plastic Starts On Land, And Why Southeast Asia Is The Smart Money Play

Forbes

time06-06-2025

  • Business
  • Forbes

UN Ocean Conference: Why The Key To Ending Ocean Plastic Starts On Land, And Why Southeast Asia Is The Smart Money Play

The world is finally catching up to a simple fact: you cannot solve the ocean plastics crisis in the ocean alone. You need to solve it on land too. As we mark World Oceans Day and gather at the UN Ocean Conference next week, that truth has never been more urgent, or more investable. For years, the most visible focus on ocean plastics has centered on what happens after waste enters the water, from cleanup technologies to capture devices. These efforts play a valuable role in addressing the plastic already polluting our oceans. But the larger, investable opportunity lies upstream: stopping plastic waste from leaking into the environment in the first place by building the supply chains to collect, sort, recycle, and reuse plastic before it ever reaches waterways. That's where private capital can generate both environmental impact and financial returns. Momentum is building as multinationals, private investors, and development finance institutions become engaged. Recent examples include Circ's $500 million polycotton recycling plant in France – the first to recover cotton and polyester at industrial scale – and Hindustan Unilever's equity investment into Lucro in India to help scale flexible plastic recycling and secure recycled feedstock. And yet, we are still barely scratching the surface. According to The Circulate Initiative's Investment Tracker, between 2018 and 2023, private capital invested an average of $32 billion annually into plastics circularity, far short of the estimated $1 trillion needed by 2040 to reduce plastic leakage by 90%. Of the $190 billion invested globally over that period, only 10% reached Asia, despite the region being at the epicenter of both the problem and the opportunity. That disconnect is most visible, and most solvable, in South and Southeast Asia. Whether you're an investor focused on ocean plastic, climate mitigation, or nature-based solutions, investing in land-based recycling and circular supply chains can generate both environmental benefits and competitive returns. South and Southeast Asia: Where the Opportunity Outweighs the Risk The Asia-Pacific region accounts for roughly 50% of global plastic production and 46% of global plastic waste, making it both the center of supply and one of the largest sources of mismanaged waste. Recycling mismanaged plastic waste in South and Southeast Asia could prevent 229 million tons of greenhouse gas emissions, equivalent to shutting down 61 coal-fired power plants for a year. While the macro-environment is driving uncertainty, local and regional circular economies are strengthening to enable the most resilient recyclers to thrive. Global brands are expanding local partnerships and sourcing strategies to meet recycled content targets. At the same time, policymakers are introducing stronger regulations to drive circular economy adoption and reduce plastic leakage. But while the market fundamentals are aligning, many of the businesses capable of delivering these solutions still face significant growth barriers, and that's where private investors are uniquely positioned to bring not just capital, but operational expertise and market access. Indonesia – A Case Study in Untapped Scale Indonesia's recycling sector is dominated by thousands of small and mid-sized operators, many of them profitable but operating informally, with limited capital, technical expertise, or global partnerships. Current recycling rates remain low: 27% for PET, 18% for polypropylene, 12% for LDPE, and less than 1% for multilayer plastics. Meanwhile, demand drivers are accelerating: And critically, Indonesia already has a base of proven local companies with the potential to scale into regional leaders if paired with smart capital. What 'Smart Money' Means in Recycling Smart money in this sector is more than funding. It's about bringing the right mix of capital, technical expertise, offtake partnerships, and global best practices to help businesses professionalize, scale, and compete internationally. We've seen this model work firsthand through several companies in Indonesia: These companies (and many more like them) are already proving that viable solutions exist. The opportunity is to help them unlock the next phase of growth. The Time Is Now As world leaders, policymakers, and investors convene this week in Nice at the UN Ocean Conference to advance solutions for ocean health, it's critical to recognize that many of the most scalable answers are already in motion, but undercapitalized. The path forward is not to wait for the perfect technology or for multilateral action to catch up. It's to channel smart capital into proven enterprises in high-opportunity markets like Indonesia and Southeast Asia that are ready to scale today. Doing so won't just help protect the ocean. It will generate commercial value, create jobs, build resilient supply chains, and contribute meaningfully to global climate goals. The real question is who will move first, and who will watch from the sidelines as others build the value chains of the future.

Textile Recycling Goes To France With Circ's New $500M Facility
Textile Recycling Goes To France With Circ's New $500M Facility

Forbes

time28-05-2025

  • Business
  • Forbes

Textile Recycling Goes To France With Circ's New $500M Facility

A rendering of the new Circ facility in France. Circ Circ's new $500 million facility in Saint-Avold, France, is set to become the world's first industrial-scale plant dedicated to recycling polycotton textile waste—a feat long considered impossible at scale. 'Our first full-scale facility will push circular fashion over the critical tipping point in the global economy, proving that the future of textiles can be decarbonized, closer to waste-free, and regenerative by design. It's not just a major milestone for Circ, but a breakthrough for the entire circular economy at a time when the planet urgently needs scalable climate solutions,' says Peter Majeranowski, founder of Circ. Peter Majeranowski, founder of Circ (c) Geoff Wood The fashion industry is responsible for up to 10% of global greenhouse gas emissions—more than all international flights and maritime shipping combined. Yet, less than 1% of all textiles are ever recycled back into new textiles. At the heart of this problem is polycotton—a blend of polyester and cotton that makes up about 77% of the global textile market. Polycotton's durability and comfort have made it the backbone of modern clothing, but its mixed composition has made it nearly impossible to recycle using conventional methods. Most polycotton waste is landfilled, incinerated, or shipped overseas for disposal. The Virginia-based company Circ, which originally launched in 2011, and has been developing a patented hydrothermal technology. This can separate polyester and cotton from polycotton blends --- without damaging either material. And that's the key. That means the polyester turns into a liquid polymer, and the cotton fibers can still be reused. Traditional recycling methods typically can only handle pure cotton or pure polyester. But they cannot do blends. So, with Circ's tech, there is potential to close the loop and build a circular model for fashion. And they've already been testing this out at plants in Ohio and North Carolina in the States. Although other companies have developed smaller prototypes or even led pilots on circularity, Circ's would be the first to be at an industrial scale. 'Blended textiles like polycotton are notoriously difficult to recycle because it requires a process tough enough to separate the blend but mild enough to not damage either component," iterates Majeranowski. "Recovering both components is a systems challenge that requires precision, stability, and the ability to scale. Most innovators have solved part of the puzzle, but few have cracked the full process or proven it at industrial throughput. Our success comes from years of R&D, deep industrial partnerships, and a team with over 150 years of experience scaling complex technologies.' And they're building this new facility in France, the capital of fashion. Saint-Avold, which is located about four hours east of Paris, is a well-established industrial hub with deep roots in manufacturing and energy, explains Majeranowski. The site was selected for its strategic logistics, access to regional feedstock, competitive utility costs, skilled workforce, and strong local and regional government support. 'While our solution is designed to be globally scalable and geographically flexible, France provides a stable regulatory environment and a clear path to industrial deployment at scale,' he adds. Here, they will process 70,000 metric tons of post-consumer and post-industrial polycotton waste each year. This commercial operation is designed to serve as a model for global expansion, with additional plants planned for North America and Asia. The recycled output is as good as, or better than, materials made from petroleum or trees, but with a dramatically lower carbon footprint and no need for new resource extraction, he explains. Plus, they can handle any composition and color of polycotton. 'These recycled fibers are designed to be 'drop-in ready,' meaning they can seamlessly replace conventional materials in existing manufacturing processes without compromising on quality or performance," Majeranowski says. Over the years, Circ's approach has attracted more than $100 million in funding from a variety of fashion and sustainability-minded investors, including Bill Gates' Breakthrough Energy Ventures, Inditex (Zara), Zalando, Patagonia, and others. The company's materials are already being used by brands like Zara and Mara Hoffman, and its technology has been recognized as an Earthshot Prize finalist and a BloombergNEF Pioneer. Alot of this fanfare and financial investment has come Circ's way because they've been able to solve one serious pain point in textile manufacturing: the polycotton blends -- a major gap in textile manufacturing. So could this be the beginning of a real transition to circularity? Majeranowski is betting on it.

Companies unveil radical fix for global crisis caused by fashion industry: 'Our goal is to be a regular provider'
Companies unveil radical fix for global crisis caused by fashion industry: 'Our goal is to be a regular provider'

Yahoo

time28-05-2025

  • Business
  • Yahoo

Companies unveil radical fix for global crisis caused by fashion industry: 'Our goal is to be a regular provider'

Amazingly, the clothes that fill our closets are from an industry with a pollution burden of up to 10% of planet-warming gases, which exceeds aviation and shipping combined, according to Bloomberg. The news outlet recently recognized a couple of startups that are tackling some of the most polluting parts of the textile and fast fashion sectors. The efforts are coming out of Appalachia and the City of Lights. Danville, Virginia's Circ has a process to recycle mixed-fiber fabrics, many of which contain cotton and plastic polyester. The latter material is created with fossil fuels. They are hard to recycle, according to Bloomberg. Paris-based EverDye has cleaned up the coloring process with a fascinating non-toxic electrostatic method with "no heat and short amounts of time," per the company. "Our goal is to be a regular provider of dyes in the supply chain," operations head Victor Durand said. Both are BloombergNEF Pioneers award winners. Fast fashion describes the loads of clothing that are sold to trend-seekers. The duds are part of the $1.7 trillion global industry of cheap garments that are often considered disposable. Apparel consumption is expected to hit 102 million tons by 2030. It already generates 20% of global wastewater and leaves heaps of junk fabrics in landfills and elsewhere, according to McKinsey & Co. and Circ's recycling process uses chemistry. A water solvent and pressure is used to break down polyester molecules. They can then be separated from cotton. It's all purified, ready to be made into new clothes. It's a solution that answers fast fashion's waste problems with expedient recycling, per Bloomberg. EverDye is changing the energy-intensive, heat-based dyeing process. Its replacement method uses room-temperature water. The experts positively charge the mineral dye particles, which adhere to negatively charged fabrics without additives or high heat. The charge consideration isn't part of common dye methods that require binders. Some heat is used at the end to seal the color, according to the report. The textile-related innovations aren't alone. Breakthroughs in electronics are addressing the growing amounts of toxic e-waste we make each year. In Germany, Electrocycling GmbH is using artificial intelligence to help tackle the problem. London's Jiva Materials can dissolve old circuit boards in hot water. On the textile side, shoppers can help by shifting from fast fashion. Buying better-made clothes can save you hundreds of dollars a year because they last longer. Shopping at thrift stores can give new life to still-great clothing, and you can even uncover rare finds. But if shoppers keep a turn-and-burn, trendy mindset, the benefits can be lost. What should the government do about the fast fashion industry? Set strict regulations Incentivize sustainable options Use both regulations and incentives Nothing Click your choice to see results and speak your mind. Supporting eco-friendly brands that use cleaner materials and dyes can also result in savings while preventing pollution. Circ has secured investments and is seeking commitments from brands to use its recycled materials. EverDye can produce brown, orange, and yellow fabrics. Experts are working on blue, black, and red. The company is seeking investments and partners, as well, according to Bloomberg. Both companies are poised for growth. We are "refining and developing our process to ensure that our materials are better than virgin, from a greenhouse impact," Circ President Peter Majeranowski said. Join our free newsletter for good news and useful tips, and don't miss this cool list of easy ways to help yourself while helping the planet.

US fashion recycling startup to build $500 million plant in France
US fashion recycling startup to build $500 million plant in France

Fashion Network

time21-05-2025

  • Business
  • Fashion Network

US fashion recycling startup to build $500 million plant in France

US clean-tech startup Circ plans to build what it says is the world's first industrial-scale plant dedicated to recycling post-consumer and post-industrial polycotton textiles. Fabrics made of a blend of polyester and cotton are a staple of fast fashion but are hard to break down and worsening a global waste crisis. The 450 million euro ($510 million) plant will be in Saint-Avold, France, and construction is set to begin in 2026. The facility will have the capacity to process 70,000 metric tons of polycotton material per year, according to the company. It is expected to be fully operational by 2028 and create 200 direct and indirect jobs. Danville, Virginia-based Circ surveyed dozens of sites, including in North America and Asia, before deciding on France, amid a US pullback from clean-tech funding under the Trump administration. 'We see within the EU an incredible appetite for green-industry solutions and an ecosystem in the finance world that's very supportive of industrial solutions like this that can scale,' said Conor Hartman, Circ's chief operating officer. Circ applied for both national and regional grants and financing assistance through the French government, including its Strategic Project Guarantee program through Bpifrance Assurance Export. The company has also sought grants from the EU Innovation Fund and Just Transition Fund. 'The blend of incentives, regulatory environment, affordable clean energy, manufacturing experience and talent within the workforce were all important in Circ's decision to locate this facility in France over sites in other regions,' said Hartman. France has ambitious environmental and textile waste laws, including an anti-waste and circular economy law that focuses on reducing waste, managing it more responsibly and building domestic recycling infrastructure. Circ's plant would also support textile producers in meeting their Extended Producer Responsibility obligations to manage the entire life cycle of their goods. Circ's chemical process separates the polyester and cotton fibers in blended clothing material into two recycling streams, which is very difficult to do mechanically. The fibers are then purified so they can be reused. Financing is expected to come from new and existing investors and a blend of equity and debt, and conversations are 'ongoing,' Hartman said. The company is in discussion with the private capital market, as well as banks. Circ has previously received investment from Patagonia, Inditex (Zara 's parent company) and the European fashion platform Zalando SE. The project was announced by President Emmanuel Macron 's administration at the 2025 Choose France summit, the country's annual economic development showcase. 'France is the leader in fashion, so what better place to debut the future of the fashion industry,' Hartman said.

US fashion recycling startup to build $500 million plant in France
US fashion recycling startup to build $500 million plant in France

Fashion Network

time21-05-2025

  • Business
  • Fashion Network

US fashion recycling startup to build $500 million plant in France

US clean-tech startup Circ plans to build what it says is the world's first industrial-scale plant dedicated to recycling post-consumer and post-industrial polycotton textiles. Fabrics made of a blend of polyester and cotton are a staple of fast fashion but are hard to break down and worsening a global waste crisis. The 450 million euro ($510 million) plant will be in Saint-Avold, France, and construction is set to begin in 2026. The facility will have the capacity to process 70,000 metric tons of polycotton material per year, according to the company. It is expected to be fully operational by 2028 and create 200 direct and indirect jobs. Danville, Virginia-based Circ surveyed dozens of sites, including in North America and Asia, before deciding on France, amid a US pullback from clean-tech funding under the Trump administration. 'We see within the EU an incredible appetite for green-industry solutions and an ecosystem in the finance world that's very supportive of industrial solutions like this that can scale,' said Conor Hartman, Circ's chief operating officer. Circ applied for both national and regional grants and financing assistance through the French government, including its Strategic Project Guarantee program through Bpifrance Assurance Export. The company has also sought grants from the EU Innovation Fund and Just Transition Fund. 'The blend of incentives, regulatory environment, affordable clean energy, manufacturing experience and talent within the workforce were all important in Circ's decision to locate this facility in France over sites in other regions,' said Hartman. France has ambitious environmental and textile waste laws, including an anti-waste and circular economy law that focuses on reducing waste, managing it more responsibly and building domestic recycling infrastructure. Circ's plant would also support textile producers in meeting their Extended Producer Responsibility obligations to manage the entire life cycle of their goods. Circ's chemical process separates the polyester and cotton fibers in blended clothing material into two recycling streams, which is very difficult to do mechanically. The fibers are then purified so they can be reused. Financing is expected to come from new and existing investors and a blend of equity and debt, and conversations are 'ongoing,' Hartman said. The company is in discussion with the private capital market, as well as banks. Circ has previously received investment from Patagonia, Inditex (Zara 's parent company) and the European fashion platform Zalando SE. The project was announced by President Emmanuel Macron 's administration at the 2025 Choose France summit, the country's annual economic development showcase. 'France is the leader in fashion, so what better place to debut the future of the fashion industry,' Hartman said.

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