4 days ago
I've never tried to master Hyderabadi biryani, says chef Himanshu Saini
Two nights before Dubai's Michelin Awards ceremony, I found myself at Trèsind Studio, discreetly nestled within The St. Regis Gardens at Palm Jumeirah. Unassuming on the outside, it unveils a world of precision, poetry and personality once you step in. Today, it proudly holds the distinction of being the first Indian restaurant in the world to be awarded three Michelin stars.
We were ushered into the restaurant's 'living room', where the story of Indian cuisine was about to unfold, one course at a time. Our evening began at the Papadom Botanic Bar, where cocktails are reimagined using kitchen scraps. Every drink told a story, from chai to shrikhand, dal baati churma to coconut moilee, elevated into liquid art. The zero-waste philosophy extends into the bar, with syrups made from trimmings and botanical spirits crafted from stalks to roots, and seeds to blossoms. I choose the Gun Powder cocktail, a bold whisky concoction with curry leaf, sesame oil, jasmine, fino sherry, and Kashmiri chilli — smoky, complex, and unmistakably Indian.
Chef Himanshu Saini appeared soon after — gracious, understated, and warm. We were led to the intimate 20-seat dining room, where his team moved with quiet precision in the open kitchen. A manager approached with a framed map of India, guiding us through the evening's agenda, traversing the salt flats of Gujarat, the Himalayan foothills, the Deccan plateau, and coastal plains. This visual introduction, mapping terrain, produce and regional techniques, set the tone for the immersive, multi-course experience that followed.
In May, a couple of days after Trèsind Studio made history as the first Indian restaurant to receive three Michelin stars, I reconnected with chef Saini to reflect on what this recognition truly means. 'The moment was surreal," he recalls. 'There was immense joy and pride, and a deep sense of gratitude. This wasn't just a win for me or Trèsind Studio, it was a win for Indian cuisine."
Saini's culinary journey began in old Delhi, in a home where cooking was an expression of love rather than technique. He fondly recalls early memories, sneaking aamchur from the masala box, savouring ghevar from Chaina Ram during the rains, and sharing chicken changezi with his father on Asaf Ali Road. The sizzle of kebabs in Jama Masjid's bustling lanes and the aromas wafting through Chandni Chowk left a lasting imprint, later inspiring creations like his Kebab Scarpetta. 'It's an evolution of those sensory flashbacks, the smoke, the flavours, the crowd," he says. These formative experiences shaped his philosophy: food must be honest, personal, and deeply comforting. 'We cook what we eat. If we don't love it ourselves, we don't serve it."
Saini's early professional grounding came under chef Manish Mehrotra at Indian Accent, but it was in Dubai his vision came alive. "Mr Bhupender Nath [founder & MD] believed in me. The trust gave birth to Trèsind and later Trèsind Studio," he says. Saini talks about the current wave of modern Indian cuisine, and acknowledges peers like Gaggan Anand, Vineet Bhatia and Vikas Khanna as fellow trailblazers. "Progressive Indian cuisine isn't about leaving tradition behind, it's about interpreting it through a new lens," he adds.
The focus on narrative is evident in every detail of the culinary experience. 'About 50% of the menu evolves annually, allowing us to continually reinterpret and refine regional flavours, while retaining standout favourites that have resonated deeply with our guests," he informs.
A signature dish that captures this ethos is the Tender Coconut Kushiyaki with Yuzu Rasam. Inspired by the cuisines of south Indian, the young coconut is grilled and skewered with curry leaves, mimicking the texture of squid. It is then paired with a tangy yuzu rasam. Another standout is the Ghee Roast Crab, where the ghee-laced masala envelopes the crab like a spicy mayonnaise, and slow-roasted inside cinnamon bark.
Yet the most polarising and powerful dish remains the Inspiration Sadya, a reimagining of Kerala's Onam feast. Conceived in jest among chefs, it has evolved into a showstopper. Served on banana leaves, it features a dozen components like cream of rice, banana vinegar, and mango naranga curry. Originally a pre-dessert, the course found its rightful place in the middle of the menu on the suggestion of renowned chef Massimo Bottura. Presented by the entire kitchen team in synchronised procession, it is a moment that stirs guests deeply. 'Some have wept", Saini told me. "It speaks to anyone who has ever sat down to eat with family."
Even the details reflect thoughtful curation, from using New Zealand's Antipodes water, chosen for its neutral profile that complements pairings, to the playful opening act of the pani puri amuse bouche. 'The aerated pani with a touch of dry ice isn't just visual; it cleanses the palate and excites it."
Despite being a Delhi boy, Saini expresses a deep affinity for south Indian cuisine. 'It's underrepresented globally, which gives us creative freedom. North Indian food is hardest for me. When you know something intimately, you replicate. When you don't, you reimagine," he explains. 'I've never tried to master Hyderabadi biryani. The day I do, I'll lose the freedom to interpret it." Whether drawing on memories of chaat or of a Goa trip, he remains curious and restless. 'From Goa to Karnataka to Kerala, I'm constantly inspired by sourness, spice, and by what's left unsaid on the plate."
Sustainability is central to Trèsind Studio's operations. The rooftop garden grows curry leaf, hibiscus, cactus, mountain basil, peppermint, that are utilised across the menu in various dishes. About 60% of the menu is plant-based, and they work with small local farms to source produce responsibly.
Running a 20-seater may seem restrictive, but for Saini, it enables a rare intimacy. 'There's no space for complacency. Every detail is felt by every guest," he says. 'But it also gives us the freedom to innovate boldly and to remain deeply human in our hospitality." The guiding principle of Atithi Devo Bhava, the guest is god, anchors the approach to service. Led by manager Vipin Panwar, the team lives this ethos daily, with most of the staff personally presenting dishes or drink pairings to guests. The defining moment comes with the sadya: a choreographed procession in which each team member serves a single element, layering the dish course by course.
On the future of Trèsind Studio, Saini is firm: 'This isn't a brand to be franchised. Any new concept will be a natural extension of our philosophy, not a copy." To aspiring chefs, his advice is simple: "Your roots are your superpower. Don't chase trends. Tell your story with honesty."
The dining room had dimmed and Sinatra's 'Fly Me to the Moon' filled the space. The servers emerged carrying soft glowing orbs that revealed a delicate Emirati honey dessert, melting away like a final whisper. It was a poetic conclusion to an unforgettable evening that proved Indian cuisine no longer needs to shout to be noticed. At Trèsind Studio, it sings.
Aslam Gafoor is a Bengaluru-based columnist, and food and travel enthusiast.
