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Malay Mail
2 days ago
- General
- Malay Mail
Best of both worlds: Red bean and black glutinous rice ‘tong sui' is sweet and creamy, nutty and utterly comforting
KUALA LUMPUR, June 21 — Two of my favourite Cantonese tong sui (sweet dessert soups) are hung dau sui (red bean soup) and hak loh mai (black glutinous rice dessert). Both are staples in my pantry, at least in their dry forms, so they are always at reach whenever the hankering for home cooked tong sui hits. The challenge sometimes is in deciding which to have? The creamy, sweet red bean soup or the nutty bite of the black glutinous rice dessert? Red beans. — Picture by CK Lim Why not have both? No, I don't mean making two separate batches but creating one unified tong sui that marries the earthy sweetness of red beans and the chewy texture of black glutinous rice. It's the best of both worlds. The best of both types of tong sui, really. The resulting sweet dessert soup is both comforting and rich, yet utterly traditional. It's almost a forgotten classic as most of us only opt for one tong sui or the other. This is me telling you that you can enjoy both, happily so. Black glutinous rice. — Picture by CK Lim RED BEAN & BLACK GLUTINOUS RICE 'TONG SUI' You will notice there's quite a bit of overnight soaking in this recipe, for both the red beans and the black glutinous rice. This pre-soak gives the red beans a head start, softening them enough to break down smoothly as they parboil the next day. Black glutinous rice doesn't require the same parboiling after its overnight soak; just a rinse or two until the water runs dark reddish-purple. Then you can combine both the legumes and the grains together for the actual tong sui boiling. A few small additions make all the difference: the chan pei (dried tangerine peel) lends its subtle perfume; the pandan leaves a soft, grassy note; the santan a richness that is tempered by the fruity sweetness of the dried longans. Finish the sweet dessert soup with a little rock sugar — the amount in this recipe is only a guide and you should adjust accordingly based on what feels right to you. Remember, there's no wrong or right level of sweetness; just how you like your tong sui to taste. Pandan leaves, tied in a knot (left). Dried longans (right). — Pictures by CK Lim Ingredients 200 g dried red beans 100 g black glutinous rice 1 piece dried tangerine peel 2–3 pandan leaves, tied in a knot 2 litres water 50 g dried longans 100 g rock sugar 250 ml santan (coconut cream) Salt to taste 'Santan' (coconut cream). — Picture by CK Lim Method The day before cooking, place the red beans and black glutinous rice in separate bowls. Cover each with plenty of water, and leave to soak overnight. The next day, drain the soaked red beans and place them in a large pot. Cover with fresh water and bring to a boil. Once the water has come to a boil, drain immediately. Refill the pot with clean water and repeat this step once more. This helps to temper any bitterness in the beans. While boiling the red beans, separately soak the tangerine peel in cold water for about 30 minutes. Rinse the black glutinous rice thoroughly until the water is no longer cloudy. Add the parboiled red beans, drained glutinous rice, soaked tangerine peel, pandan leaves and water to a large pot. Bring to a boil over high heat. Once boiling, lower the heat and allow to simmer, uncovered, for about 2 hours. Stir now and then to prevent anything from sticking to the bottom of the pot. Roughly 45 minutes before the cooking time ends, add the dried longans to the pot. Continue to simmer gently. Separately, in a smaller pot, warm the santan with a pinch of salt over low heat. Allow it to reach just under a simmer, then turn off the heat. Cover and set aside to keep warm. When the red beans and black glutinous rice have softened, and the tong sui has reached the desired consistency, stir in the rock sugar and a small pinch of salt. Continue stirring until the sugar has fully dissolved. Check the taste and adjust if necessary with more water or rock sugar. When ready, turn off the heat and ladle the tong sui into individual bowls. Drizzle a little warm santan over each bowl and serve immediately. Drizzle a little warm 'santan' and serve immediately. — Picture by CK Lim
Yahoo
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
This shop in Taman OUG serves the unlikely pairing of ‘tonkotsu shoyu ramen' and pour over coffee — and somehow it works!
KUALA LUMPUR, June 19 – Before my bowl of Tonkotsu Shoyu Ramen reached our table, it announced its imminent arrival with its aroma first. That of pork bones simmered for long hours into opacity, tempered by fine soy sauce. A broth that is deep in flavour but not too rich. Noodles that held their bounce. A slice of lightly torched chashu, tender enough that it nearly falls apart as I lift it with my chopsticks. A seasoned egg, sliced in half, revealing its custard centre. This is the sort of bowl I would expect from any decent ramen shop in Japan. But definitely not a café in KL that serves specialty coffee and freshly baked pastries. We hadn't planned on finding this place. Our usual breakfast spot in the Taman OUG neighbourhood was too crowded so we decided to walk around looking for an alternative. The first thing we saw was the yatai – a mobile Japanese food stall seen along the streets and at festivals in Japan – outside an otherwise nondescript shop. This somewhat incongruous element promised bowls of ramen within. The 'yatai' – a mobile Japanese food stall – outside the shop promises bowls of ramen within. — Picture by CK Lim But what we didn't expect was the low hum of a grinder and the soft hiss of milk steaming when we entered. Did we just do an Alice Through the Looking-Glass – walked into a ramen shop and stumbled upon a coffee bar instead? Perhaps a bit of both. The shop in question is called Absorb Sunlight x Ramen Monster, a collaboration that, at first glance, shouldn't quite work, but somehow does. Certainly the space with its low lighting, bare walls and shelves stacked with handmade ceramic cups leaned more towards artisanal café aesthetics: understated décor and a tranquil ambience. Barista grinding beans and brewing pour over coffee. — Picture by CK Lim Pour over coffee (left). 'Ri Shai Ju Hua' (right). — Picture by CK Lim As with any decent specialty coffee bar, our barista welcomes us and introduces the entire coffee menu to us. One of us opts for a pour over coffee while the other orders one of their signature drinks. There is a certain meditative quality watching the barista grind the coffee beans (a curated selection from different coffee roasters, including One Half Roastery and NashLee Roastery), wetting the filter paper and pouring the hot water over the grounds with a gooseneck kettle. My pour over coffee arrived in a handmade cup from Seremban-based Qihewood Pottery. It sat warm in my hands, textured and heavy. And somehow, that knowledge of the craft behind this beautiful vessel made the brew taste better. The signature drink we ordered is named like a line from Chinese poetry: Ri Shai Ju Hua (日曬橘花), which translates to 'Sun Dried Orange Flowers'. The flavour notes come in layers. First, a bright acidity from the lemon juice that is quickly mellowed by the citrusy tang of the sun dried orange. Then the subtle osmanthus, floral and faintly apricot-like, dancing with the fizzy soda. All anchored by the caffeine hit of a freshly pulled espresso shot. Refreshing and, dare I say, lyrical? We pair our coffees with flaky pastries, freshly baked daily by Contour in PJ. The verdant pistachio croissant, nutty topping and creamy interior, and the simple but always satisfying pain au chocolat. Pistachio croissant (left) and 'pain au chocolat' (right). — Picture by CK Lim That would have been plenty for breakfast for most people. But if you have space for more, and make this brunch or an early lunch, then don't miss the ramen by Ramen Monster, the other half of this shop's synergistic equation. A good basic bowl to begin with would be the aforementioned Tonkotsu Shoyu Ramen but if you're feeling more indulgent, try their Truffle Shoyu Ramen. The same deeply flavourful broth is now enriched by a generous dollop of heady truffle paste atop the chashu. To gild the lily further, a slice of sous-vide duck breast, tender and just pink at the centre. Every sip tastes like manna, every mouthful luxurious. Ramen and coffee. Who knew? Truffle Shoyu Ramen. — Picture by CK Lim Which brings us back to our first thoughts on this place: that this is an unlikely pairing that shouldn't quite work, but somehow does. The delicate notes of a pour over coffee don't have to compete with the soul-lifting warmth of a ramen broth. They can instead be two distinct voices taking turns. For this is very much a conversation, a sort of culinary dialogue that we, as diners, are very much eager to return to. Absorb Sunlight x Ramen Monster 怪物拉面 51, Jln Hujan, Taman Overseas Union, KL Open Mon-Thu 11am-9pm; Fri-Sun 10am-10pm • This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal. • Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
Malay Mail
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- Malay Mail
This shop in Taman OUG serves the unlikely pairing of ‘tonkotsu shoyu ramen' and pour over coffee — and somehow it works!
KUALA LUMPUR, June 19 – Before my bowl of Tonkotsu Shoyu Ramen reached our table, it announced its imminent arrival with its aroma first. That of pork bones simmered for long hours into opacity, tempered by fine soy sauce. A broth that is deep in flavour but not too rich. Noodles that held their bounce. A slice of lightly torched chashu, tender enough that it nearly falls apart as I lift it with my chopsticks. A seasoned egg, sliced in half, revealing its custard centre. This is the sort of bowl I would expect from any decent ramen shop in Japan. But definitely not a café in KL that serves specialty coffee and freshly baked pastries. We hadn't planned on finding this place. Our usual breakfast spot in the Taman OUG neighbourhood was too crowded so we decided to walk around looking for an alternative. The first thing we saw was the yatai – a mobile Japanese food stall seen along the streets and at festivals in Japan – outside an otherwise nondescript shop. This somewhat incongruous element promised bowls of ramen within. The 'yatai' – a mobile Japanese food stall – outside the shop promises bowls of ramen within. — Picture by CK Lim But what we didn't expect was the low hum of a grinder and the soft hiss of milk steaming when we entered. Did we just do an Alice Through the Looking-Glass – walked into a ramen shop and stumbled upon a coffee bar instead? Perhaps a bit of both. The shop in question is called Absorb Sunlight x Ramen Monster, a collaboration that, at first glance, shouldn't quite work, but somehow does. Certainly the space with its low lighting, bare walls and shelves stacked with handmade ceramic cups leaned more towards artisanal café aesthetics: understated décor and a tranquil ambience. Barista grinding beans and brewing pour over coffee. — Picture by CK Lim Pour over coffee (left). 'Ri Shai Ju Hua' (right). — Picture by CK Lim As with any decent specialty coffee bar, our barista welcomes us and introduces the entire coffee menu to us. One of us opts for a pour over coffee while the other orders one of their signature drinks. There is a certain meditative quality watching the barista grind the coffee beans (a curated selection from different coffee roasters, including One Half Roastery and NashLee Roastery), wetting the filter paper and pouring the hot water over the grounds with a gooseneck kettle. My pour over coffee arrived in a handmade cup from Seremban-based Qihewood Pottery. It sat warm in my hands, textured and heavy. And somehow, that knowledge of the craft behind this beautiful vessel made the brew taste better. The signature drink we ordered is named like a line from Chinese poetry: Ri Shai Ju Hua (日曬橘花), which translates to 'Sun Dried Orange Flowers'. The flavour notes come in layers. First, a bright acidity from the lemon juice that is quickly mellowed by the citrusy tang of the sun dried orange. Then the subtle osmanthus, floral and faintly apricot-like, dancing with the fizzy soda. All anchored by the caffeine hit of a freshly pulled espresso shot. Refreshing and, dare I say, lyrical? We pair our coffees with flaky pastries, freshly baked daily by Contour in PJ. The verdant pistachio croissant, nutty topping and creamy interior, and the simple but always satisfying pain au chocolat. Pistachio croissant (left) and 'pain au chocolat' (right). — Picture by CK Lim That would have been plenty for breakfast for most people. But if you have space for more, and make this brunch or an early lunch, then don't miss the ramen by Ramen Monster, the other half of this shop's synergistic equation. A good basic bowl to begin with would be the aforementioned Tonkotsu Shoyu Ramen but if you're feeling more indulgent, try their Truffle Shoyu Ramen. The same deeply flavourful broth is now enriched by a generous dollop of heady truffle paste atop the chashu. To gild the lily further, a slice of sous-vide duck breast, tender and just pink at the centre. Every sip tastes like manna, every mouthful luxurious. Ramen and coffee. Who knew? Truffle Shoyu Ramen. — Picture by CK Lim Which brings us back to our first thoughts on this place: that this is an unlikely pairing that shouldn't quite work, but somehow does. The delicate notes of a pour over coffee don't have to compete with the soul-lifting warmth of a ramen broth. They can instead be two distinct voices taking turns. For this is very much a conversation, a sort of culinary dialogue that we, as diners, are very much eager to return to. Absorb Sunlight x Ramen Monster 怪物拉面 51, Jln Hujan, Taman Overseas Union, KL Open Mon-Thu 11am-9pm; Fri-Sun 10am-10pm • This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal. • Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
Malay Mail
24-05-2025
- Malay Mail
Savour this aromatic and umami-rich Thai claypot glass noodles with prawns
KUALA LUMPUR, May 24 – One of my favourite Thai dishes is the one-dish wonder goong ob woon sen or claypot glass noodles with prawns. Heady with aromatics such as ginger, garlic, peppercorns and cilantro roots, these translucent cellophane noodles – made of mung bean starch – soak up all the umami-rich sauce during cooking. You taste the sweet prawns, the briny sauce, the funk of the nam pla (fish sauce). I remember how we'd head to our usual Thai seafood restaurants in Bangkok, barely hours after landing and checking into our hotel, to enjoy this as our first meal of the trip. It's that good. Best of all its status as a one-pot dish means there are fewer utensils to wash up once you're done with dinner. More time to binge watch your latest Thai show obsession on GMMTV or ONE 31 afterwards, chai mai? Dry glass noodles. — Picture by CK Lim THAI CLAYPOT GLASS NOODLES WITH PRAWNS (GOONG OB WOON SEN) Despite its name, I usually cook this in a normal pot rather than a claypot, preferably one large enough to feed 2-3 people. (When dining alone, I halve the recipe and use my trusty one-person claypot.) Also fret not: though it involves quite a number of ingredients, the dish is fairly straightforward. The approach is one of layering: First the pork lard at the bottom of the pot; its rendered fat will grease the base and prevent any food from sticking. Then the pounded aromatics will gently sauté and perfume the entire pot. Ginger is an essential part of the aromatics. — Picture by CK Lim Next in goes the glass noodles, soaked in the sauces, and the prawns. Cover with the lid and cook till done. Simple and easy! One thing to note is to read the instructions on your packet of glass noodles (or tong fun in Cantonese) before soaking them. Some brands may require only a few minutes; others require at least half an hour. Finally I like to add some cabbage for extra fibre, though it's not traditional nor compulsory. The cabbage holds up better to the cooking time than more delicate leafy greens. Ingredients 120g dry glass noodles150ml chicken stock2 tablespoons oyster sauce1 tablespoon light soy sauce1 tablespoon dark soy sauce2 tablespoons Thai fish sauce (nam pla)2 teaspoons sugar1 tablespoon Shaoxing wine1 tablespoon sesame oil4-5 cloves of garlic½ teaspoon black peppercorns½ teaspoon white peppercorns2 medium pieces of ginger2 fresh cilantro roots50g pork lard (or pork belly), sliced into short stripsNeutral cooking oil (optional)12 medium prawns, deveined but heads and shells left intact¼ cabbage, chopped (optional)Chopped spring onion (for garnishing) Fresh cilantro. — Picture by CK Lim Method Soak the dry glass noodles in a bowl of water; follow the packet instructions for how long to soak them, typically 10-30 minutes. While the glass noodles are soaking, combine the chicken stock, oyster sauce, light soy sauce, dark soy sauce, fish sauce, sugar, Shaoxing wine and sesame oil in a mixing bowl. Set aside. Leave the heads and shells of the prawns intact. — Picture by CK Lim Using a pestle and mortar, pound the garlic, black and white peppercorns, ginger and cilantro roots until they form a coarse paste. Once the glass noodles have softened, drain and add to the bowl of seasoning sauce. Stir well to mix. Layer the bottom of the pot with the pieces of pork lard. Heat on the stovetop over low heat until the pork fat begins to render. You may now add the aromatic paste on top of the pork lard. Increase the heat to medium. Drizzle a little neutral cooking oil over the paste, if there isn't enough rendered pork lard to help the sautéing process. Once the paste starts to release its aroma, add the glass noodles and any residual sauce. Top with the prawns (and cabbage, if using). Cover with the lid. Cook over medium high heat for 6-10 minutes, until the glass noodles have absorbed most of the sauce. Remove from the heat and garnish with chopped spring onion. Serve the dish in the pot it is cooked in. Enjoy whilst hot. Enjoy while hot. — Picture by CK Lim
Malay Mail
08-05-2025
- Lifestyle
- Malay Mail
More than roast duck: Head to MW Signature in Happy Garden for their signature duck ‘hanbagu' and crystal ‘cha siu' that is ‘just right'
KUALA LUMPUR, May 8 — What looks like a hanbagu but isn't quite a hanbagu? If you're in the vicinity of Taman Bukit Indah in KL (Happy Garden to longtime residents), the answer might well be the Duck Burger Patty at MW Signature along Jalan Lazat 2. (To clarify, the full name of the restaurant is MW Signature Premium Ducks Roasted To Perfection but given that this is quite a mouthful, most regulars just call it MW Signature.) Served with rice, some greens and a sunny side up, the patty calls to mind the Japanese-style hanbagu steak that is typically made from a mix of ground beef and pork, and served with rice instead of burger buns. The restaurant is packed during lunch hour. — Picture by CK Lim The hanbagu is synonymous with Japanese-style Western cuisine known as yoshoku (as opposed to truly traditional Japanese cuisine or washoku), which would make sense that adaptations will always be part of the ever-changing foodscape. As such, why not a duck hanbagu? Fortunately, this is far from a gimmick: the duck patty is deeply flavourful despite its pale colour and is as juicy as a classic beef-and-pork hanbagu. No surprise then, that the restaurant is packed during lunch hour given the high quality of the food served, albeit simply and without much frou-frou. Iced drinks (right). Pork Lard and Minced Meat Noodles (right). — Pictures by CK Lim To begin, we decided on iced drinks given the sweltering noonday weather. The trio of beverages — Hainam Cham, Jasmine Green Tea and Salted Lime Juice — were all suitably refreshing. There are a number of noodle dishes, designed for solo diners or those needing a quick meal, topped with roast duck, cha siu or siew yoke. Simplest is best here as their Pork Lard and Minced Meat Noodles had all the right ingredients: crunchy pork lard, savoury minced pork, chewy noodles and not too much sauce so that every strand is slick with seasoning rather than drowning in broth-like gravy. Mini Yam Rings. — Picture by CK Lim The appetisers all offer an irresistible crunch that comes from the deep-frying: Dragon Beard Duck Rolls, Duck Rolls with Taro Paste, and Mini Yam Rings. The last one is what we ordered, a scaled down version of the Chinese banquet staple that is just as beguiling and far less guilt-inducing given it's helpfully bite-sized. Time for the main course, so to speak. Our friendly server showed off a whole roasted duck to us, cheekily asking us which part we preferred (we went for the lower half, naturally, for the much sought after duck drumstick). Nothing is wasted, even if customers have specific preferences as to their favourite parts of the duck. The carcass as well as any residual meats that are sliced off during the preparation process is well employed in the classic leftovers dish, Spicy & Sour Mustard Greens (labelled as the 'Emperor's Dish' in the menu here). Nothing is wasted, from a whole roasted duck to the classic leftovers dish, Spicy & Sour Mustard Greens. — Pictures by CK Lim Known as choy geok in Cantonese, this is something my mother would make every Chinese New Year. It's a period when we must feast well, which means there will be plenty of delicious leftovers, especially roast meats. What better way to reinvigorate appetites that might be a tad strained after days of heavy eating with something that is hot and sour? That is the premise behind this zero-food-wastage standard and MW Signature's version works a treat given all the flavourful meats being served. Not that there would be much wastage given how everyone orders the Signature Roast Duck. (A quick glance at the tables surrounding ours confirmed this.) It is, after all, in the name of the restaurant. So how does their roast duck fare? Everyone orders the Signature Roast Duck. — Picture by CK Lim Honestly, it is a worthy addition to any Cantonese roast duck map for enthusiasts; possibly better than many more well-known establishments in the Klang Valley. The meat is surprisingly moist and tender, a far cry from the dry and chewy offerings I have had elsewhere. In fact, the de facto duck connoisseur at our table had only one complaint: that the dish lacked a more prominent duck aroma. This, for some of us (myself included), isn't a drawback; not everyone appreciates a strong parfum de canard so we were quite satisfied. What we all agreed on was MW Signature's excellent cha siu or Crystal BBQ Pork, as it's labelled in the menu. MW Signature's excellent 'cha siu' or Crystal BBQ Pork. — Picture by CK Lim 'Crystal cha siu' isn't something new — one of the best I had was at Restoran You Kee XO in JB — but I find most versions in the Klang Valley to err heavily on the side of cloyingly sweet. One slice is perfection; more will be quite jelak. There is no danger of that feeling of having eaten overwhelmingly rich food here; their cha siu is just right, as per the Goldilocks Rule. This is a restaurant we'd happily return to and recommend to others — for their duck hanbagu (which is what I insist on calling their burger patty), their fantastic cha siu and, above all, for their impressive service. Don't miss out on this one. MW Signature Premium Ducks Roasted To Perfection 56, Jalan Lazat 2, Taman Bukit Indah, KL Open daily 10am-2:30pm; 5:30-8:30pm Phone: 03-7971 2787 * This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal. Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.
