Latest news with #AugusteEscoffier
Business Times
3 days ago
- Business
- Business Times
So you've taken over your family restaurant
RESTAURANTS are delicate things — especially mom-and-pop operations. Among the smallest of small businesses, the most successful attract customers with a combination of low costs, intense deliciousness, do-it-yourself charm and pure gumption. The hawker stands of Southeast Asia are famous examples of this. Diners forgive rough service, put up with long queues and forego white tablecloths — if not tables — for a chance to enjoy a secret sauce, that special spark, the elemental spirit passed down generation to generation. Scaling up these tiny treasures might maximise profits, but the risk is losing the magic. A line of cooks organised along Auguste Escoffier's kitchen brigade system may help churn out dishes and feed a lot more people efficiently, but certain recipes require exacting experience and a discriminating je ne sais quoi. They may not survive the transition. Customers who are used to lower prices will also grouse at the increased costs that come with more staff and expanded real estate. A purist or two will complain that you've sold out. I've been worrying about this because friends of mine are in the process of scaling up a mom-and-pop operation that had a legendary cult following here in London. People used to take 45-minute train rides from the middle of the city east to less-than-posh Leytonstone on a chance that a table — even if you had to share it — might open up at the Thai restaurant Singburi. That's because 'mom' — who took bookings only over the phone — said there was no availability unless diners didn't show up. 'Pop' started the restaurant in 1999, but Singburi's reputation got going after Sirichai Kularbwong joined him in the kitchen toward the end of the last decade. Over that period, his parents toyed with the idea of retirement and finally decided to do it at the end of 2024. By then, the hole-in-the-wall underdog had become the 73rd best restaurant in the UK. Will Singburi 2.0 — in a brightly modern, much bigger space in trendy Shoreditch — be able to replicate its former charms? Some favorites from its old chalkboard menu aren't on offer, and that will disappoint some followers. I'm a friend and fan of Kularbwong and his partners, and so, while I've tasted (and thoroughly enjoyed) a preview, I have to await popular acclaim — or the opposite — along with them after the restaurant officially opens this week. I'm rooting for them and sharing in the anxiety, almost like family. I take some comfort from the recent remaking of another family-run Thai restaurant. In Copenhagen last month, at Noma chef Rene Redzepi's MAD symposium on the future of food, Justin Pichetrungsi — who'd been working for Walt Disney Co as an animator — gave a speech describing how he had to change careers in 2019 when his chef father suffered a stroke. He took over Anajak, a four-decade-old traditional Thai restaurant. He proceeded to innovate (think Thai Taco Tuesdays), turning it into one of the most sought-after reservations in Los Angeles. He instituted his changes, including a huge list of natural wines, while in close consultation with his father and the kinfolk who'd always helped run the place. Pichetrungsi won the 2023 James Beard Award for best chef in California. His mother, who remains in charge of making Anajak's mango sticky rice, wore the medal when he returned to LA with the prize, and proudly got fruit stains on it. Sometimes family may just be what a restaurant in jeopardy needs. In February 2003 — despondent over an unexpected demotion in the unforgiving world of French haute cuisine — Bernard Loiseau, the celebrated chef of Cote d'Or, a three-Michelin star restaurant in Burgundy, walked up to the upstairs bedroom where he usually took a nap after lunch service. He then shot himself in the head. There was heated debate in the media over what part of the system was to blame for the tragedy. Then the world moved on. But not Loiseau's family. The chef was the relentless genius at the centre of not just Cote d'Or, but also the eponymous company he built around it. Indeed, Bernard Loiseau SA was traded on the Paris stock exchange. How could such a personality-driven enterprise exist without him? His culinary reputation was also the only real thing his grieving family could claim ownership of. So his widow Dominique decided to press on. With most of her late husband's staff, she persevered, keeping Cote d'Or going. Eventually, two of their three children — daughters Bérangère and Blanche — would become part of the operations. Bérangère took over the front of the house and the management of the finances; and Blanche would join the kitchen. It hasn't been easy. In a poignant speech at MAD, Bérangère talked about channeling her father through his writings and documents to figure out how to move forward with the restaurant and the company. Nevertheless, in the 22 years since his death, Cote d'Or hasn't only expanded to include the small hotel Relais Bernard Loiseau and several other properties, it's also kept its Michelin stars. In 2003, Dominique told French television soon after his suicide, 'All these exceptional beings who give you the impression of so much assurance, they are all very fragile. They all have such strong moments of doubt.' But she and her daughters came to the rescue. And because of them, Bernard Loiseau has a living legacy in the world. BLOOMBERG
Mint
4 days ago
- Business
- Mint
So You've Taken Over Your Family's Restaurant
(Bloomberg Opinion) -- Restaurants are delicate things — especially mom-and-pop operations. Among the smallest of small businesses, the most successful attract customers with a combination of low costs, intense deliciousness, do-it-yourself charm and pure gumption. The hawker stands of Southeast Asia are famous examples of this. Diners forgive rough service, put up with long queues and forego white tablecloths — if not tables — for a chance to enjoy a secret sauce, that special spark, the elemental spirit passed down generation to generation. Scaling up these tiny treasures might maximize profits, but the risk is losing the magic. A line of cooks organized along Auguste Escoffier's kitchen brigade system may help churn out dishes and feed a lot more people efficiently, but certain recipes require exacting experience and a discriminating je ne sais quoi. They may not survive the transition. Customers who are used to lower prices will also grouse at the increased costs that come with more staff and expanded real estate. A purist or two will complain that you've sold out. I've been worrying about this because friends of mine are in the process of scaling up a mom-and-pop operation that had a legendary cult following here in London. People used to take 45-minute train rides from the middle of the city east to less-than-posh Leytonstone on a chance that a table — even if you had to share it — might open up at the Thai restaurant Singburi. That's because 'mom' — who took bookings only over the phone — said there was no availability unless diners didn't show up. 'Pop' started the restaurant in 1999, but Singburi's reputation got going after Sirichai Kularbwong joined him in the kitchen toward the end of the last decade. Over that period, his parents toyed with the idea of retirement and finally decided to do it at the end of 2024. By then, the hole-in-the-wall underdog had become the 73rd best restaurant in the UK. Will Singburi 2.0 — in a brightly modern, much bigger space in trendy Shoreditch — be able to replicate its former charms? Some favorites from its old chalkboard menu aren't on offer, and that will disappoint some followers. I'm a friend and fan of Kularbwong and his partners, and so, while I've tasted (and thoroughly enjoyed) a preview, I have to await popular acclaim — or the opposite — along with them after the restaurant officially opens this week. I'm rooting for them and sharing in the anxiety, almost like family. I take some comfort from the recent remaking of another family-run Thai restaurant. In Copenhagen last month, at Noma chef Rene Redzepi's MAD symposium on the future of food, Justin Pichetrungsi — who'd been working for Walt Disney Co. as an animator — gave a speech describing how he had to change careers in 2019 when his chef father suffered a stroke. He took over Anajak, a four-decade-old traditional Thai restaurant. He proceeded to innovate (think Thai Taco Tuesdays), turning it into one of the most sought-after reservations in Los Angeles. He instituted his changes, including a huge list of natural wines, while in close consultation with his father and the kinfolk who'd always helped run the place. Pichetrungsi won the 2023 James Beard Award for best chef in California. His mother, who remains in charge of making Anajak's mango sticky rice, wore the medal when he returned to LA with the prize, and proudly got fruit stains on it. Sometimes family may just be what a restaurant in jeopardy needs. In February 2003 — despondent over an unexpected demotion in the unforgiving world of French haute cuisine — Bernard Loiseau, the celebrated chef of Cote d'Or, a three-Michelin star restaurant in Burgundy, walked up to the upstairs bedroom where he usually took a nap after lunch service. He then shot himself in the head. There was heated debate in the media over what part of the system was to blame for the tragedy.(1) Then the world moved on. But not Loiseau's family. The chef was the relentless genius at the center of not just Cote d'Or, but also the eponymous company he built around it. Indeed, Bernard Loiseau SA was traded on the Paris stock exchange. How could such a personality-driven enterprise exist without him? His culinary reputation was also the only real thing his grieving family could claim ownership of. So his widow Dominique decided to press on. With most of her late husband's staff, she persevered, keeping Cote d'Or going. Eventually, two of their three children — daughters Bérangère and Blanche — would become part of the operations. Bérangère took over the front of the house and the management of the finances; and Blanche would join the kitchen. It hasn't been easy. In a poignant speech at MAD, Bérangère talked about channeling her father through his writings and documents to figure out how to move forward with the restaurant and the company. Nevertheless, in the 22 years since his death, Cote d'Or hasn't only expanded to include the small hotel Relais Bernard Loiseau and several other properties, it's also kept its Michelin stars. In 2003, Dominique told French television soon after his suicide, 'All these exceptional beings who give you the impression of so much assurance, they are all very fragile. They all have such strong moments of doubt.' But she and her daughters came to the rescue. And because of them, Bernard Loiseau has a living legacy in the world. More From Bloomberg Opinion: (1) In 2003, Loiseau was demoralized by his demotion by the Gault Millau restaurant guide and feared Michelin would follow suit. It did not. Cote d'Or would retain its three Michelin stars. This column reflects the personal views of the author and does not necessarily reflect the opinion of the editorial board or Bloomberg LP and its owners. Howard Chua-Eoan is a columnist for Bloomberg Opinion covering culture and business. He previously served as Bloomberg Opinion's international editor and is a former news director at Time magazine. More stories like this are available on
Los Angeles Times
15-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Los Angeles Times
Cherries Jubilee
This effortless dessert brings the good vibes. Any dessert you set on fire is impressive. And its components remind me of my Black life — not a monolith. The origins of cherries jubilee go back to Queen Victoria's Golden Jubilee in the late 1800s, for which Auguste Escoffier, a famous French chef, prepared this dessert. If you are fortunate enough to shop in a place with an abundance of cherry varieties, do find Bing, sour or Rainier cherries; they all work for this dessert. Hands down, they have the most distinctive and complex flavors.
Irish Examiner
07-06-2025
- General
- Irish Examiner
Michelle Darmody: How to make a peach traybake that feeds a dozen
This soft and fruity crumble-topped sponge is baked in a large flat tray so it can be cut up and divided easily. It works well with any stone fruit, which are all coming into their own this time of year, but peaches give a particularly deep and dense colour. The juiciness of peaches varies greatly. In Ireland, unfortunately, many peaches are packed off to our shops while ripening en route, missing out on that transformative sun-kissed effect that creates the distinctive flavour of those found in hotter climates. Unlike many other fruits that lose some of their vitality when cooked, peaches, even hard underripe ones, can intensify and become richer and smoother when used in baking. Raspberries and peaches are paired together in various desserts, as they both ripen as the summer begins to warm up, but they also provide great balance to each other. Raspberries add a tartness which enlivens the peaches' sweetness. Melba is a famous pairing of vanilla ice cream and soft peaches topped with raspberry coulis. It was invented in the Savoy Hotel in London by the famous French chef Auguste Escoffier. This traybake mirrors Melba's simple and elegant flavours. Peach Traybake recipe by:Michelle Darmody This soft and fruity crumble-topped sponge can be cut up and divided easily Servings 12 Preparation Time 20 mins Cooking Time 40 mins Total Time 60 mins Course Baking Ingredients For the topping 50g cold butter, cubed 100g demerara sugar 85g self-raising flour Zest of 2 oranges 20g porridge oats For the base 100g soft butter 150g golden caster sugar 1 egg, lightly beaten 1 tsp vanilla extract 280g self-raising flour, sieved 120ml milk 350g ripe raspberries, roughly mashed 350g peaches, stoned and sliced Method Line an 8 x 12 inch baking tray with parchment. Preheat your oven to 180°C/gas mark 4. To make the topping, rub the butter into the sugar, flour and zest until it resembles rough breadcrumbs. Stir in the porridge oats and set aside in a cool place. To make the traybake, cream the butter and sugar until light and fluffy. Gradually add the egg and vanilla until combined. Stir in the flour. Add the milk to the batter to make it a smooth consistency. Stir in the mashed raspberries. Spread the batter into the prepared tin. Dot the peach slices on top, pressing them down a little. Sprinkle the topping over the peaches. Place into the centre of the preheated oven. Bake for 40 minutes or until a skewer comes out clean from the cake. Once cool enough to handle, remove the traybake onto a wire rack to cool then slice. Baker's tips To line your tin, cut a rectangle of parchment larger than the tin, then make four diagonal cuts the depth of your tin, one at each corner. Place the parchment over the tin and shape it into the base and sides with your hands, ensuring it is free of wrinkles. If you find it easier you can rub a small bit of butter onto the tin, so the parchment sticks to it. This also helps to keep the parchment in place when you are scooping the batter into the tin. When making the crumble topping, it is important to ensure that the butter is cold and becomes properly incorporated into the dry ingredients, otherwise you will not get that lovely crisp texture which contrasts with the soft sponge below. When you have set the topping aside and are making the sponge layer below you can store it in the fridge or a cool part of your kitchen. If your sponge is flat or too dense it is because there is a lack of air. Sieving the flour not only aerates it; it also removes lumps so it can incorporate with the rest of the ingredients more easily. When creaming the butter and sugar for the sponge layer, you will need room temperature rather than cold butter. Use a low to medium speed on your mixer until combined, then turn it up to a high speed. You want a soft, creamy texture with lots of air incorporated into it. The mixture will change colour to a pale creamy white when enough air has been added. You can scrape down the sides of the bowl as you are creaming the ingredients to ensure everything is well incorporated. If your batter begins to split or curdle as you add the eggs, add in a spoon of the flour and continue. The slices will last three days in the fridge, but the topping may lose some of its crispness. This can be frozen after it has been cut into slices. Three delicious variations: Apricot and almond This recipe works well with a strong almond flavour added to it. I like to add at least one teaspoon of almond essence in place of the orange zest and then slivered almonds in place of the oats. Instead of peaches, I use apricots, the combination of almond, raspberry and apricot works very nicely. Mixed berry Using berries to top the cake as well as the mashed raspberry in the sponge gives a tart and colourful result. I add a mixture of 350g chopped strawberries, raspberries and blackberries in place of the peaches. Apple and pecan Stew 350g of cooking apples (350g weight after the apple has been peeled and cored). Once soft, let the apple cool. Make the recipe using the stewed apple in place of the mashed raspberries. Read More Michelle Darmody: How to bake the ultimate summer pudding
Forbes
09-05-2025
- General
- Forbes
The 5 Best Food Processors That Slice, Dice And Pulverize With Ease
A food processor is among the most versatile kitchen appliances, capable of puréeing, grating, chopping, slicing and mixing everything from nuts and seeds to tender herbs. A sturdy design and high motor power are essential—but so are well-designed discs and attachments, simple controls and easy-to-clean parts. Out of the very best food processors, the one we recommend first is the Cuisinart Custom 14-Cup Food Processor, a powerful pick with just two intuitive settings. Some of the best food processors come from Cuisinart, Magimix and Breville. Whether you're whipping up homemade hummus or making carrot cake for the first time, the right processor can significantly increase your confidence and efficiency in the kitchen. 'They make trying new foods and dishes much more approachable,' says Jey Kempin, a chef-instructor at the Auguste Escoffier School of Culinary Arts. And even if you don't have ambitious plans, a reliable model can reduce the amount of time you spend on routine chopping tasks: 'It can cut the time used to prep ingredients in half,' Kempin adds. When deciding between models, you want to keep a few factors in mind: the size of your household, the amount of storage space you're willing to spare and the frequency with which you can see yourself using the machine. From a petite, under-$50 option to a professional-grade pick you might find in a restaurant kitchen, here are the best food processors to help you tackle daily prep work and project recipes alike. Amazon Capacity: 14 cups | Dimensions: 9.8 x 7.8 x 15 inches | Motor power: 720 watts | Included pieces: Work bowl, work bowl cover with feeding tube, small feeding tube and pusher, slicing disc, medium shredding disc, chopping/mixing blade Best for: Skip if: Cuisinart has been the gold standard of food processors for over half a century now—and with this machine, it's easy to see why. Powered by a 720-watt motor, this model can effortlessly break down everything from dense nuts and beets to soft cheeses and delicate herbs. 'It grinds tougher foods with no issue,' says Kempin, who recommends this model for home cooks. Its 14-cup capacity is also plenty big for almost all recipes, providing ample space to blitz enough salsa to feed a party, shred zucchini for bread or mix together a standard batch of pastry dough. Beyond its sheer power and size, the Custom's design makes it a dream to use. First, it has just two paddle controls—'on' and 'off/pulse'—the latter of which 'allows for more control over the final product's texture,' says Kempin. We also appreciate its extra-large feed tube, which obviates the need to chop all your ingredients into smaller parts, saving you time in the kitchen. Lastly, this food processor comes with a handful of versatile attachments—and not a ton of extra pieces that will never see the light of day. Alongside the BPA-free work bowl and brushed stainless steel base, it includes a 4-millimeter stainless steel slicing disc, a medium shredding disc and a blade for dough and other mixing tasks, all of which rinse off easily with a little soap and water. Just note that this model is relatively heavy, weighing in at 18 pounds, so it's best stored on lower shelves. Its large capacity also makes it bulky, so this may not be a great pick for smaller or storage-strapped kitchens. Walmart Capacity: 8 cups | Dimensions: 7.6 x 9.6 x 15.2 inches | Power: 350 watts | Included pieces: Work bowl, two reversible shredding and slicing discs (one medium, one fine) Best for: Skip if: If you're seeking a more wallet-friendly option, we also like this model from Cuisinart's Elemental line, which you can often find for less than $100. While the design is a little less premium (the base is made from plastic, for example, and the feed tube isn't quite as wide as the 14-cup above), it's still an absolute powerhouse. While its 8-cup capacity is also still large enough for the average recipe, the machine takes up less storage space than our top pick. While this food processor—which comes with both a fine and medium reversible shredding and slicing discs—can tackle most basic tasks with ease, its chopping and dicing capabilities aren't quite as precise as with higher-end picks. In the two years that I've owned and used this model, though, I haven't once been disappointed by its performance; while I most often reach for it to make roasted tomato salsas and romesco sauce in the summer, I've also used it to pulverize pesto ingredients and vegetables for soup. Additionally, the four controls (low, high, pulse and off) are very straightforward, and the work bowl locks securely into the base. Notably, for those who hate hand-washing the dishes, all the removable parts are dishwasher safe. Amazon Capacity: 12 cups | Dimensions: 8.5 x 7.5 x 17 inches | Power: 1,000 watts | Included pieces: Slicing blade, dough blade, slicing disc, grating disc Best for: Skip if: As the most powerful model on this list, the Breville Sous Chef 12 is made for those who know their way around a kitchen and want a food processor they can really put to work. What really makes it stand out, though, is its design: The largest feed chute is extra wide, measuring 5 inches across, and there are two additional chutes in different sizes for smaller ingredients. It also comes a slicing blade, dough blade, grating disc and variable slicing disc, the last of which has a whopping 24 thickness settings. When you're ready to use the machine, which requires all parts to be securely locked in place, power on the machine and choose between 'start' and 'pulse.' As it blends—even tougher ingredients like nuts and potatoes—its induction motor makes little noise, compared to most other models. And if the motor ever starts to work a little too hard and overheat, the machine has an overload protection system to prevent possible damage. Just keep in mind that the Sous Chef 12 does require a decent amount of storage space. While it has a smaller capacity than the Cuisinart Custom, it's nearly the same size and weighs almost as much (it clocks in at 16 pounds), meaning it's ideal for those who have spacious lower cabinets or shelves to store it. Amazon Capacity: 14 cups | Dimensions: 10 x 8.3 x 16.8 inches | Power: 950 watts | Included pieces: Three bowls (6-, 12- and 14-cup versions), two metal blades, two grating discs (fine and medium), two slicing discs (fine and medium), dough blade, blender attachment, egg whisk, spatula, storage box Best for: Skip if: 'A quality, high-powered food processor can be found in every commercial kitchen, and usually, it is a Robot-Coupe,' says Kempin. After all, the French brand invented the device in the 1970s. While you can buy a commercial-grade Robot-Coupe, for most home cooks, we'd instead recommend this model from the company's consumer line. The model is relatively straightforward to use, despite its suitability for more technical tasks: There are only three buttons, which keep the machine running ("auto"), enable shorter, controlled bursts ("pulse") and power it off. It's more than capable of slicing through large volumes of dense ingredients, thanks to it 950-watt motor that generates little noise as it runs, and beyond that, is paired with tons of discs and accessories that increase its overall versatility and justify the higher price. To start, there are three work bowls (6-cup, 12-cup and 14-cup versions) to pick from, depending on the size of your task. And then, there are the accessories: A handful of relatively standard ones (like two metal metal blades, two grating discs and two slicing discs) plus a few nontraditional ones (such as a dough blade, blender attachment, egg whisk and spatula). If that sounds like a lot to keep track of, it is—but the machine also comes with a handy storage box to keep everything organized and in the same place. Amazon Capacity: 3 cups | Dimensions: 5 x 7 x 9.3 inches | Power: 250 watts | Included pieces: Stainless steel auto-reversing blade, spatula Best for: Skip if: While the Cuisinart Mini-Prep Plus can't whip up extra-large batches of hummus or pesto, it can still help speed up tedious prep, and packs away into tighter kitchens with ease. Featuring a 3-cup capacity, this compact pick has two simple buttons: 'chop,' which breaks down ingredients into smaller pieces, and 'grind,' which further pulverizes blends into smooth dips and sauces. And though it doesn't come with additional discs, meaning it's not ideal for precise grating or shredding, the stainless steel auto-reversing blade is sharp enough to fly through everything from almonds to onions. Since receiving this food processor as a gift over a year ago, editorial assistant Whitney Bruno has 'started to use this for just about everything,' she wrote in an ode to the Mini-Prep Plus. 'I no longer sweat over the estimated meal prep times on recipe websites and in cookbooks—I know I can count on the Mini-Prep to chop everything from herbs to carrots without wasting anytime.' This model is a favorite of Kempin's, too: 'I have had mine for over 12 years, and it is still going strong,' they say, adding that it comes in handy 'for quick sauces and fast meals at home.' Forbes Vetted's home and kitchen team brings extensive experience testing, researching and reviewing kitchen essentials. We've published countless expert-informed roundups on staples including espresso machines, knife sets and wooden cutting boards. To determine the best food processors for all kinds of home cooks, we compared features from top-rated models and tapped the expertise of a culinary-school instructor. Whether you're thinking of swapping out your lagging food processor for a newer, higher-quality model, or you're investing in your very first one, here are the factors to keep front of mind as you shop. With all kitchen tools, we typically suggest prioritizing models from trusted brands—and that guidance holds true for food processors. For decades, Cuisinart has been a name synonymous with food processors, and the high quality of their models is reflected on this list. Other top-performing models come from Breville, which makes some of our favorite kitchen products (including the best espresso machine and air fryer toaster oven), and Magimix by Robot-Coupe, which invented the first domestic food processor in the 1970s. Food processors come in a range of capacities, from compact 3-cup versions to spacious 16-cup models. Not sure what size makes sense for your household? 'Think about the number of people you will be preparing food for—are you a single person, a family of five or do you host large dinner parties on a regular basis?' advises Kempin. They prefer models with 8- to 10-cup capacities, but frequent entertainers might benefit from a larger pick. 'Also, think about the space that is available in the kitchen,' adds Kempin. The higher the capacity, generally speaking, the more room the model requires. If you have little storage space to spare, consider a miniature model like the Cuisinart Mini-Prep Plus Food Processor. While it's limited to smaller jobs due to its petite capacity, it can still blitz everything from nuts to onions with relative ease. Most food processors come with a standard stainless steel blade to blitz ingredients, as well as additional discs for shredding and slicing. While the main blade can handle most tasks, specialized discs can increase the overall versatility of the machine. In particular, Kepmin likes the grating disc: 'Not only is this helpful with cheeses, but you can grate vegetables like cabbage, Brussels sprouts and cucumbers.' Just keep in mind that the discs require extra storage space, so if you don't foresee yourself using most of them, don't splurge on a model that comes with a higher price tag that's partly due to the number of attachments. It's also worth noting that, with some machines, you can purchase additional discs separately. Food processors with 12- to 14-cup capacities typically cost anywhere from $100 to $500. In general, the larger the capacity and the stronger the motor, the higher the price. If you're struggling to determine how much to spend, consider how frequently you plan on using the machine and how much food you typically prepare at once. For example, if you only like to make small batches of almond butter on occasion, you don't need a premium model like the Magimix. But for those who foresee themselves using a food processor for large tasks a regular basis, the upgrade might be worth it.
