North Stradbroke Island: Minjerribah is the most eye-opening island adventure you've never heard of
Stradbroke Flyer and Sealink both operate 50-odd minute water taxi, passenger, and vehicle ferry services to the island. All depart from Toondah Harbour, Cleveland (on the Brisbane mainland), and go directly to the small port town of Dunwich, North Stradbroke Island.
I took the Sealink car ferry because a vehicle is a handy commodity due to the 275.2 sq km island and, once onboard, enjoyed the incredible coastal vistas from the deck.
A warm welcome
The charming town of Dunwich may be small, but it's packed with personality. It's got everything you'd need, like a health centre and a food mart, as well as cool little cafes and craft shops selling authentic Aboriginal art.
One of them is the studio of Quandamooka (the Aboriginal people of Minjerribah) artist Delvene Cockatoo-Collins, who utilises the natural surroundings of her home to create beautiful works based on the traditional art form of her people.
Cockatoo-Collins has an impressive resume and an even bigger heart, apparent when we discussed her mission to champion Aboriginal artists and art on the world stage.
When walking the streets, don't forget to say hi to the other friendly locals, who are always willing to tell you about the island and what makes it so special.
Shack up by the beach
Wanting a place just across from the ocean? Look no further than the Allure Stradbroke Resort. A 20-minute drive from Dunwich, the resort's self-contained beach shacks are perfect for those who want to soak up the island vibes.
Perfectly situated by the picturesque Cylinder Beach and just shy of the small settlement of Point Lookout, the shacks are walking distance to many dining and shopping options with distinct island flair.
My loft-style unit contained everything I needed and more, including a small fully stocked kitchen and outdoor patio with a BBQ. The resort also has an in-house restaurant where you can get a hearty brunch, plus a pool for when the beach is too rough.
If you're looking for other great places for a bite (and a brew), don't miss the Stradbroke Hotel up the road for a fantastic night watching the footy, slamming back a delicious prawn pizza, or even dancing the night away because this place knows how to party after dark.
The tour of a lifetime
In all my years of travelling, I've never had a more authentic and enjoyable tour experience than my one with Elisha, the proud Quandamooka woman behind Yura Tours.
Forget the pretentious storytelling and awkward periods of standing around, this was an authentic local adventure of epic proportions from someone who lives and breathes the culture.
During the three-hour trek, you'll traverse the island in one of Elisha's hulking utes as she shows you the hidden highlights of the island.
We started at the Point Lookout (Berarngutta) walking track, where Elisha explained how her people have lived off the land for generations and picked some plants and herbs for us to try. Any questions, no matter how silly, Elisha answered, and the conversational nature of the tour was a highlight in an unfamiliar territory.
After spotting some wild kangaroos and even some beautiful sea turtles, it was time to lunch at the Six Beaches Fish Grill and Bar, a locally owned joint with stellar views of the rugged coast and unbelievably tender grilled snapper. An off-road drive on the seamlessly never-ending Main Beach also saw Elisha run into her brother-in-law, and legendary Aussie bloke collecting black coral for handmade jewellery.
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We also spotted a sea eagle perched high on a branch as we made our way to the famous Brown Lake (Bummiera). Described as a 'natural day spa,' the melaleuca and tea-tree bushland surrounding the lake has both given it a distinct brown look and blessed it with natural healing properties (think the mud pools in Rotorua-type vibe). Don't skip rubbing the quartz sand on your hands to feel some of the lake's revitalising properties.
An ancient midden was our last stop, but a surprise interruption became one of the most incredible things I've ever witnessed. A koala sat stationary in the middle of the road, blocking our path, initially not looking like it was in a good state. In the pouring rain, Elisha and I wrapped it in a jacket and shepherded it off the road until the island's animal team came to take it away for assessment.
Sopping wet, but with a full heart and belly, I returned to my shack and reflected on the incredible day. You truly won't get an experience like you do on Straddie anywhere else in the world, so even if just for a day, make sure you break from the big city and give it a go.
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