HK's Jean-Pierre nails the Paris ambiance with bistro favourites

I WANTED to try Jean-Pierre as soon as the signs went up on Bridges Street. My excitement grew when the back story emerged about Black Sheep Restaurants' Marc Hofmann looking to create a 'jubilant homage' to the bistros of Paris at one of Hong Kong's emerging gastro hot spots.
Recreating the vibe seemed like a challenge, so I went in expecting clunky replica decor, courageous cooking and mildly hostile service. I was wrong about everything.
Everyone wants to be a bit Parisian, from Cincinnati in the US to Tromso in Norway and Pondicherry in India and, well, results will vary. It's even a bit of a self-deprecating joke in my home town. So how close can Hong Kong get, under the scrutiny of its lively French community?
Jean-Pierre, named after Hofmann's father, gives itself a massive head start. The bistro greets you with wide smiles, authentic accents and shards of laughter drifting over a blast of music — the playlist is a mix of pop classics and chanson, perhaps something you might have heard on Paris radio circa 1979.
Fans of Baccara and Kiki Dee will be bopping. The dining room is just the right kind of dim and just the right amount of frenzied, with white-aproned servers gliding precariously between the tables and somehow always turning up in time. It's casual.
Saturday is definitely date night, with huddled couples at the small tables in the middle and raucous groups of friends on the dark red couches around the perimeter. As chaotic as the place seems at first, it's cosy and welcoming. It feels like a neighbourhood eater y you've been frequenting for years, where your waitress knows you'll take your water sparkling and your espresso before the dessert.
The amuse bouche materialises just as we finish squinting at the menu, which is barely legible behind a plastic sheet in a nice touch of authenticity. It's prom- ising: Crunchy cheese buns and a surprising clutch of crisp radishes, conjuring up the image of a chef spending the morning at the local market to find the best-looking fresh produce.
We go for the classics: Pate, onion soup, escargot (HK$128 [RM69.28] each), and later find a plate of steak tartare that somehow ends up among our order (HK$198, we weren't charged for it).
For mains, I picked the boeuf bourguignon (HK$308) as the duck confit was out, and my guest chose the gnocchi Parisienne (HK$268). We were undecided on the dessert just yet, but there's baba au rhum (yeast-risen cake soaked in hot rum) on the menu, noted.
Unfortunately, we find that the radishes were the last bit of culinary excitement. The rest of the fare is well made but avoids any risk; the spices and textures are dialled way back. The onion soup is the highlight, its initial thinness slowly giving way to a satisfying, cheesy depth. The pate is fine, if a bit salty, but it comes with chewy, tough toast. The escargot is scintillatingly buttery, but the herbs fall flat.
Both mains are lacking conviction and an extra kick of flavour. They do the basics, but don't scream passion project. Maybe the desserts will get us over the hump? Can't avoid the baba au rhum (HK$188) at this point and let's throw in a mille-feuille (HK$158). Both are immediately forgettable beyond the sugar high and their intimidating size.
It's fine. A night of old-time favourites done competently at your neighbourhood bistro is fine. Perfect for a weeknight bite or in a supporting role to your dazzling conversation, your blistering romance. The ambiance is special, which goes a long way. It's in the eye of the beholder whether that's enough to justify very nearly HK$3,000 for two people.
The Vibe: Cosy chaos. It's a neighbourhood bistro, gregarious and relaxed, it feels well lived-in even after such a short time. The main dining room was full on a Saturday night, there were people milling about at the bar and hang- ing out on the terrace.
Can You Conduct a Meeting Here? Definitely, it's dark and loud, with a lot happening everywhere. Nobody will pay attention to your murmurings, whether you're trading the latest mergers and acquisitions (M&A) buzz, workplace gossip or engaged in a more intimate liaison.
What We'd Order Again: The onion soup certainly hit the spot. I had a nagging feeling about the duck confit and wouldn't mind a go at a couple of the signatures we skipped: The steak au poivre and the three-yellow chicken.
How's the Food? Utilitarian. The portions are generous, especially the desserts, and the menu has all the bistro favourites.
Need to Know: Jean-Pierre is on 9 Bridges Street. It takes reservations online and it's worth planning a few weeks ahead for Friday or Saturday evenings. The restaurant is open Monday to Wednesday 6pm to 1p.m, Thursday to Satur- day 6pm to 11:30pm and closed on Sundays. — Bloomberg
This article first appeared in The Malaysian Reserve weekly print edition

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