Meet the women running remote mountain refuges in the wilds of the French Alps
Although mountain refuges have existed in the Alps since ancient times, they started to multiply in the 19th century with the rise in popularity of alpinism. These huts vary in terms of the shelter they offer passing mountaineers but they are always in remote locations, at dizzying altitudes and accessible only by foot.
Like me, you probably picture a mountain refuge as a tumbledown stone-built building run by gnarly old hermit with a beard down to his knees, but I was surprised to find out recently that working as a refuge guardian is a role that is increasingly being filled by women.
To find out more about what it takes to live in these isolated huts and understand what attracts women to this traditionally male-dominated role, I laced up my walking boots and travelled to the Vallée des Belleville in Savoie where three out of four refuges are now run by women.
Refuge Le Nant Brun: Amandine and Violaine
My first job upon arrival in the valley was to find out what defines a mountain refuge. 'A place has to be inaccessible to emergency vehicles by road for at least six months a year in order to qualify as a refuge,' Violaine, co-guardian of the Refuge Nant Brun tells me. I look out from the terrace of the traditional alpine house at the soaring green peaks above and the babbling stream below; it's hard to imagine it as a remote outpost in winter. However, the walking route I'd taken through the woods to reach the refuge is snow-covered in winter to the extent that locals decamp from the village entirely because the road through it is an avalanche corridor.
Violaine and Amandine opened the refuge last winter. It was a tough season that involved walking with snowshoes and pulling supplies on a sledge each day. Neither did it generate enough trade. For now, the plan is to open from June to the end of September and provide refreshment and overnight stays to hikers, holidaymakers and locals.
This isn't Violaine's first refuge rodeo. She has worked in very remote places over the years and says she'd still be doing so if she didn't have children. 'I love waking up each morning in the mountains and the sense of remoteness,' she says. 'In Courchevel, it was very far from the road and if there was accident, there was only a helicopter for rescue.'
Violaine and Amandine take it in turns to stay overnight in Nant Brun. It's tough to combine with family life, especially for Violaine whose husband is a shepherd and goes south with this flock for the summer months.
Amandine insists that life in a refuge is not as solitary as it sounds: 'People think it's lonely but it's not, especially if you are on a route like the Tour de Tarentaise or the UTMB,' she reveals. 'Often, you have a team and there are visitors every night so it's quite social. '
Refuge Lac du Lou: Coralie and Marie
My senses are in overdrive when I begin my second refuge hike; the squeak of a marmot on the left, the taste of blueberries plucked from bushes to my right and the smell of wild thyme ahead. The path from Les Menuires to Lac du Lou is narrow and snakes around the mountain. It's occasionally broken by the crossing of a wooden bridge; other times, it's simply a scramble across a stream.
After an hour, I arrive at a beautiful stone and slate house sitting at the end of a turquoise glistening lake. Coralie and Marie are two ex-opticians who met at work in Chamonix and decided to answer the call of the mountains and run a refuge together. In winter, Lac du Lou is accessible by snowshoe, ski touring or off-piste alpine skiing from the top of the Pointe de la Masse gondola, but there's no access by car or groomed pistes.
Before coming here, the friends worked in a very remote refuge in Switzerland. According to them, women-run places are becoming more common, even in high-mountain areas.
I asked the friends about safety and whether they ever feel vulnerable up here at night. 'We feel safe here but, to honest, we felt safer in previously more isolated refuges where the only danger was the weather,' says Marie. 'Here, we sometimes hear engines of four-wheel quads or motorbikes and we don't know who's out there. That's scarier than no noise at all.'
As Coralie shows me around the beautifully furnished dormitories, we talk about the skills needed to keep a refuge running for overnight stays and diners. 'I think women are good at running refuges because they can do everything; it's work that was traditionally done by women, like cleaning and cooking, so we are pretty self-sufficient really,' she says.
Refuge du Trait d'Union: Vivianne
My final refuge visit was to meet Vivianne. To reach her, I joined a night hike with a guide called Gilles to get there. We meet on the main road in a hamlet called St Marcel and walk straight up the hillside, zig-zagging through high grasses and wild flowers. It's the golden hour when we arrive in a utopia in a clearing on the side of the hill. While I gawp at the wood-fired sauna with a view to die for, one of the group is spontaneously compelled to hug a big old gnarly tree in front of the house. 'It's powerful at the moment,' says host Vivianne, by way of introduction.
Gathering us in a circle of deckchairs around a firepit, she serves us local beer, kir and peanuts, before ushering us inside for a feast of diot sausages and crozets pasta in a bechamel sauce followed by velvety chocolate puddings and shots of génépi.
When Vivianne and her husband bought the place, it was run down. The couple decided to renovate it together. 'It was only for us,' she explains, 'for spending time with family and friends. It was just for that.'
In 2016, Vivianne's husband died suddenly and for a while, all dreams of a happy retirement disappeared. With time, Vivianne returned and now she's happy to welcome guests – skiers in winter and hikers and stargazers in summer – to her wonderful place. 'That's why I called it Trait d'Union; it means hyphen – linking my life before to my life afterwards,' she tells me.
Running a refuge is physically demanding, especially in winter when you have to manage heavy snowfall and ice, as well as all the other jobs. For Vivianne, however, it's more than worth it. 'I wanted to give sense to this place after he had gone – and I realised that welcoming people here and making sure they have a good time was a way to keep his memory alive,' she says.
Like the other female guardians I meet, Vivianne says she feels safer here in the winter when access by road is completely cut. She has her dog and a co-worker who come to help in the daytimes, and she's happy.
She stands to clear the table. 'Physically, we women may not have the strength of men, but we really know how to welcome people,' she winks. I couldn't agree more.
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Hindustan Times
28 minutes ago
- Hindustan Times
నీట్ ఫలితాలు 2025: తమిళనాడులో టాప్ 7 మెడికల్ కాలేజీలు
Photo credit: Unsplash By Sudarshan V Jun 18, 2025 Hindustan Times Telugu Photo credit: Unsplash Photo credit: Unsplash Photo credit: Unsplash Photo credit: Unsplash Photo credit: Unsplash Photo credit: Unsplash Photo credit: Unsplash Photo credit: Unsplash Photo credit: Unsplash తదుపరి స్టోరీ క్లిక్ చేయండి
Broadcast Pro
29 minutes ago
- Broadcast Pro
Palestine Film Institute to present three documentaries at Sheffield DocFest
Through the Palestine Showcase, PFI continues to champion Palestinian cinema on the global stage, providing space for creative resistance and meaningful dialogue amid efforts to preserve and share Palestinian stories with the world. The Palestine Film Institute (PFI) is set to present three feature-length documentaries in progress as part of the Palestine Showcase at this year's Sheffield DocFest. Organised in collaboration with Sheffield DocFest, the British Council and Switzerland's AKKA Films, the special screening will take place on June 21 at the Montgomery Theatre in Sheffield, exclusively for DocFest delegates. This initiative underscores PFI's ongoing commitment to preserving and amplifying Palestinian narratives through international platforms. By offering filmmakers and producers a stage to present their works-in-progress, the showcase aims to connect them with key figures in the film industry, including festival programmers and decision-makers, and to foster engagement with the broader global cinema community. The three selected projects each reflect distinct aspects of the Palestinian experience, blending powerful storytelling with creative cinematic approaches. Theft of Fire, directed by Amer Shomali and produced by Rashid Abdelhamid, Ina Fichman, and Remi Grellety, is a genre-bending documentary that imagines an art heist to reclaim stolen Palestinian antiquities. White Resistance: Letters to the Living, directed by Mahmoud Atassi and produced by Abdulrahman Alkilany, draws from harrowing footage captured inside Gaza's Kamal Edwan hospital and follows the legal efforts to secure the release of its detained director, Hussam AbuSafiya. Meanwhile, Reclaiming Time, directed and produced by Fuad Hindieh, takes a surreal and visually rich look at a filmmaker's quest to legally change his birthdate—an act that transforms into a symbolic journey to reclaim time lost to occupation.
Herald Sun
30 minutes ago
- Herald Sun
Wagga preview, tips: Cross and Chung's next big hope
Don't miss out on the headlines from Horse Racing. Followed categories will be added to My News. Trainer Bruce Cross and owner/breeder Malcolm Chung are best known via the deeds of the sensational siblings, Epsom winner Final Fantasy and Canberra Cup winner Padfoot Charlie. Now, a quarter of a century on, the pair may have themselves another 'good horse' from the very same 'vines' that produced their former dynamic duo. Her name is Just Like Tilda. The daughter of Divine Prophet created a lasting impression when finishing over the top of her rivals to score an impressive, bookie-busting, debut win at Kembla earlier this month when crunched from an opening quote of $6.50 into $4.80. Cross could be forgiven for talking up Just Like Tilda on the score of her debut but is playing down any hype. 'At the moment, I am holding my powder dry,' Cross said. Just Like Tilda is looking to make it back-to-back wins. Picture: Bradley Photos The Form: Complete NSW Racing thoroughbred form, including video replays and all you need to know about every horse, jockey and trainer. Find a winner here! 'Her win at Kembla was a good win and I think she has improved a little bit, but I'm just not prepared to put my head on the block yet. 'Sometimes you can put the cart before the horse and you get too excited. 'That's why we are prepared to take a bit of time with her and give her all the chances she deserves.' Cross revealed that he had toyed with the idea of a metropolitan start for Just Like Tilda, instead opting for a trip away down to Wagga. 'I thought about it but I was a little bit too scared that she would just get up in the benchmark system too quick,' Cross explained. 'I'm interested to see what she can do on Sunday and looking forward to it to be honest. 'We are going there with our glass half-full. Whatever happens, the trip away, the floating, that all improves a horse and it sort of adds another string to their bow. 'She is a very sensible little filly, we are going there hoping, we just have to wait for the outcome.' Just Like Tilda will be ridden the Easdown's Accountants Class 1 Handicap (1300m) by Deanne Panya; gun jockey and twin sister of Beany, both of whom spend their mornings at Cross' home ground, Warwick Farm. Trainer Bruce Cross is keeping expectations realistic with Just Like Tilda Picture: Bradley Photos 'Deanne and Beany are just super young ladies,' Cross said. 'They go out of their way to help you. 'Deanne knows Just Like Tilda pretty well. She's ridden her in a bit of a work and in the trial. 'And to be honest, Deanne might have very well been on her when she won at Kembla except she was suspended. 'Deanne rode a winner (on Thursday) at Gosford, she is very underrated.' Just Like Tilda is the third foal of her dam Matilda Jade whose foaling date (September 14 in 2011) was the exact same day as Winx. Matilda Jade was bred and raced by Chung and trained by Cross but sadly, the daughter of I Am Invincible only raced once, finishing runner-up at Gundagai. 'We took her there thinking she would win easily but she got galloped on and severed a tendon so that was the only start she ever had,' Cross said. SHAYNE O'CASS' TOP SELECTIONS BEST BET Race 7 No. 1: JUST LIKE TILDA Created a big impression when winning at Kembla on debut. NEXT BEST Race 6 No. 3: CONDOR Won three of four and runner-up at the other this preparation. Easy to like. VALUE BET Race 5 No. 4: STAY TUNED Boast some compelling provincial form. Fit and stays all day. QUADDIE Race 4: 1, 2, 3 Race 5: 4, 6 Race 6: 3 Race 7: 1 JOCKEY TO FOLLOW BLAIKE MCDOUGALL will have plenty of admirers to win the TAB Jockeys Challenge. RACE 1: JJ'S WASTE & RECYCLING COUNTRY BOOSTED MAIDEN PLATE 1200m HARDLY FORTUNATE (7), an All Too Hard direct descendant of broodmare gem Extradite, was $9 out to $12 when she debuted at Wagga. Smashing run it was too, she drew 9 of 11, was ninth at the turn and got to within inches of the winner. That was 1000m, this is 1200m now. AL FLORES (5), the first foal of Coolmore Classic winning Dixie Blossoms, has had many chances. Many of us are still licking the wounds from her $1.55 loss at Goulburn the other day. Can atone but needs to win back a few fans. Bet: Hardly Fortunate each-way, quinella 5, 7, box trifecta 2, 5, 7, 12 ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ RACE 2: WDF ACCOUNTING & ADVISORY SUPER MAIDEN HANDICAP 1400m BADHATHARRY (2) is a rarity, maybe a one of a kind in present day times given he is out a mare by Harry Lawton's beloved Bureaucracy who won the George Ryder way back in 1991. He's also the damsire of Silent Witness. As for Badhatharry, he has had a textbook build-up to 1400m which he is crying out for. Michael Travers has three accepted here and all three could easily medal. MISS PEPEHA (10) is getting closer than ever to a win. His other one Stormy Malice wants 1400m. Bet: Badhatharry to win ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ RACE 3: RIDLEY WOOL CO CLASS 1 & MAIDEN PLATE 1600m DOC MARCH (11) has been very costly indeed at his last three starts, one at Canberra and two here at home at Wagga. To be fair to the horse, because he is a nice horse, he hasn't been at all helped by wide barriers hence he's been getting way back but running on dutifully. DESERT OPAL (5) has a win, four seconds and a third from his 11 starts, His personal best came last start on May 27 when he won a 1400m Maiden at home at Albury on a Heavy 8. Reliable type, well up to this. Bet: Doc March to win, exacta 11 to beat 5 ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ RACE 4: RIVERINA SIGNMAKERS COUNTRY BOOSTED BENCHMARK 58 HANDICAP 1200m CHRISTMAS STAR (2) races in the familiar colours of Shelley Hancox. This grey filly by Star Turn has finished on the podium at eight of her 12 starts. Only two are wins but looking back now, her losses, while costly at the time, were in races where the form has stood up since. Drawn one, should help. ELASTANE MISS (3) has done nothing wrong in her four starts; she won at Albury on a Heavy 10 and all the rest are seconds including one here at home. Third-up here; Blaike McDougall sticking for a third time too. Bet: Christmas Star to win, quinella 2, 3 ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ RACE 5: ICG CONSTRUCTION BENCHMARK 66 HANDICAP- HEAT OF THE WAGGA STAYERS SERIES 2000m STAY TUNED (4) is a Paul and Martha Cave-trained gelding who makes his second visit to Wagga bearing in mind that he broke his maiden here almost 12 months to the day. Fast forward to now and the son of Prized Icon is off a closing second to Hooligan Tommy at Kembla. Ready for 2000m. AVONVIEW (6) is as fit as any horse racing on the card. Well placed apart from the draw. Any upgrade from Heavy could also assist. DANDRUFF (2) will stay all day and is one for one on Heavy. Bet: Stay Tuned to win, Daily Double 1st Leg 4, 2nd Leg 1 ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ RACE 6: RIVERINA CRANE SERVICES WAGGA WINTER SPRINT BENCHMARK 82 HANDICAP 1000m CONDOR (3) had his first 13 starts in Singapore, where he won twice and posted two placings. His last four starts are for Tim Fitzsimmons and are '1211'. That second by the way was at Bendigo by less than a neck. Big winner on the Heavy 9 at Mornington last time. Obviously Condor is flying, pardon the pun. MAJOR TIME (5) is a grand old campaigner from the Gratz Vella camp. He's got a good set of numbers across the board and as for each-way punters are concerned; he has won and placed at 34 of his 65 starts. Bet: Condor to win, exacta 3 to beat 5 ■ ■ ■ ■ ■ RACE 7: EASDOWNS ACCOUNTANTS & ADVISORS CLASS 1 HANDICAP 1300m JUST LIKE TILDA (1) was just so impressive winning on debut at Kembla when $6.50 into $4.40. Won with a lot of authority on the day demonstrating a high degree of race-smarts and quality. Deanne Panya knows her well, so does the trainer of course and he's set her a task that while not a total slam dunk, looks pretty close to it. Bet: Just like Tilda to win, exacta 1 to beat 5. WAGGA BEST BET Race 7 No. 1: Just Like Tilda Created a big impression when winning at Kembla on debut. NEXT BEST Race 6 No. 3: Condor Won 3 of 4 and runner-up at the other this preparation. Easy to like. VALUE Race 5 No. 4: Stay Tuned Boast some compelling provincial form. Fit and stays all day. QUADDIE Race 4: 1,2,3 Race 5: 4,6 Race 6: 3 Race 7: 1 JOCKEY TO FOLLOW Blaike McDougall will have plenty of admirers to win today's TAB Jockeys Challenge
