I visited the Jurassic Park-like lagoon right by one of the most beautiful beaches – here's how to get there
AS I kayak on Florida's Indian River Lagoon, I'm lost for words.
With its ancient mangrove forests and prehistoric-looking pelicans dive-bombing the water, this wouldn't be out of place in Jurassic Park.
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But then comes the real excitement, as 20-plus dolphins start splashing around just metres away.
And they're having plenty of fun as they jump out of the water and even swim right under me.
This body of water is 156 miles long and the most ecologically diverse estuary in North America.
I'm taking a paddle on an uncharacteristically overcast morning, but it's usually baking hot and packed with even more wildlife, including manatees and all manner of birds.
I'm staying in the city of New Smyrna Beach, on Florida's east coast, which offers something entirely different from what might spring to mind when you first think of the Sunshine State.
It's only about an hour's drive from the theme parks Florida is known for, but presents an entirely different experience.
I'd rented my kayak from the Marine Discovery Center, which offers daily guided tours.
But out of the water, there's plenty more to see in this vibrant beach city, which is popular with surfers and about as laid-back as it gets.
The main boulevard, Flagler Avenue, is peppered with independent shops, bars and restaurants and feels like it's straight out of a Hallmark movie.
I grabbed a spot on the veranda of the Flagler Tavern, where I sipped on a deliciously tall cocktail and explored the menu packed with American seafood specials.
Martin Lewis gives travel advice about checking your passport
It was then just a short stroll back to my hotel, Marriott's SpringHill Suites.
Rooms here are huge and feature walk-in wardrobes, but the real selling point is the fabulous view you get over the Atlantic Ocean and New Smyrna's amazing beach.
Next morning, I was up early to get the sand between my toes.
Om Sunshine Yoga runs community classes on weekend mornings, with all the gear provided.
They even offer paddleboard yoga, although I soon found out my balance is bad enough on dry land — let alone the water.
Gopher tortoises
Even before attempting to get into a downward dog, the beach took my breath away — its fine white sand is set against expansive blue skies which have to be seen to be believed.
In fact, because the sand is so compact, you can even drive on it — so that's how I decided to explore the coastline.
Pedego Electric Bikes offers guided tours to see the three miles of coast at speed.
I took in the sights, sounds and sunshine, while feeling the sea breeze in my hair, as I cycled north to the Smyrna Dunes Park.
Here you can see the striking Ponce de Leon lighthouse — the tallest in the state at 175ft — as well as explore the park with its boardwalks and wildlife.
Try to go at sundown for the best chance to spot gopher tortoises.
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If you're looking for something more upmarket for dinner, then Riverpark Terrace is a great spot, with a tropical garden and fancy menu.
In fact, it is known as the area's most romantic restaurant.
And love was in the air as I travelled across town and checked into luxury guesthouse Victoria 1883 to continue my stay in New Smyrna Beach — it doubles as a sought-after wedding venue and overlooks the Indian River.
It is also the oldest property in the area and steeped in history but was renovated and opened as a boutique B&B in 2022, with a gorgeous lounge, garden and speakeasy-style bar.
While the urge to relax here was strong, I took a ten-minute stroll to the creative district of Canal Street, where shops sell art, bric-a-brac and homeware, and there is brilliant vinyl at Spinning Records.
At newly refurbished restaurant General Public, I filled up on hearty Southern cuisine then headed to the Sugar Works Distillery for a drink.
This independent bar and distillery has some of the best cocktails I've ever tasted.
They are created using the distillery's spirits, which are largely made from produce within a ten-mile radius.
New Smyrna Beach is a beautiful escape from the bustle of Orlando, so a great way to vary your time during a Florida getaway.
I flew Aer Lingus from Heathrow via Dublin, which gives a sneaky benefit when travelling to the States — you go through pre-clearance US passport control at Dublin airport, meaning you don't have to bother with the faff of security when you touch down on the other side after the long-haul flight.
But it turned out that wouldn't be the only memorable flight on my holiday, as New Smyrna Beach is just 60 miles from the Kennedy Space Center at Cape Canaveral, where rockets are launched into space once or twice every week.
So one of the most unforgettable moments came when, just past midnight, I stood on the beach and watched as a Space X rocket rose through the sky and blasted off into the solar system.
Just like that, this holiday was out of this world.
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