Studio Frantzén Review: A Neo-Nordic surprise at Atlantis, The Palm
Björn Frantzén is a name that resonates with culinary gravitas, a whisper of Nordic brilliance that has conquered palates from Stockholm to Singapore. Now, the acclaimed chef has opened a restaurant in Dubai, bringing his lauded Studio Frantzén concept to the space previously occupied by Nobu on the ground floor of Atlantis, The Palm.
The transformation from a dark and dingy dining room into a vibrant Scandi-chic space is impressive. Studio Frantzén boasts a design ethos that mirrors its culinary philosophy: luxurious yet restrained. A striking bear sculpture at the entrance sets the tone for a restaurant that forgoes Scandinavian chic in favour of stylish booths, a dramatic atrium, warm woods, and a chandelier featuring upturned candles. If you love to watch the chefs at work, there are 20 front-row seats by the kitchen counter. Plus, a private dining room for 14 guests. Ikea, this is not.
Frantzén's culinary philosophy, honed through years at the helm of MICHELIN-starred establishments, celebrates seasonal ingredients, meticulous technique, and a harmonious blend of Nordic and Asian influences. The bar offers a specially curated Nordic cocktail menu, which is designed to complement the dining experience. As does the Björn's curated playlist, which blasts tracks from Guns N' Roses, Prince and The Smiths.
Studio Frantzén's combination of neo-Nordic and Asian influences comes to the fore with the Hamachi Crudo (AED 105), which was a revelation. Here, silky yellowtail is adorned with delicate slivers of radish, while ume kosho (a fermented citrus-chilli paste) introduces a measured heat that lingers on the palate. The fermented strawberry lends a whisper of sweetness, ensuring that every bite oscillates between freshness and umami.
Next came the Artichoke (AED 95), a dish that champions seasonality, where grilled green asparagus provides a verdant counterpoint to the earthy artichoke, while pea miso adds a layer of savoury depth. The crunch of pistachios offers textural intrigue, elevating the dish beyond its humble components.
The Wagyu Nigiri (AED 65) is a study in contrasts. The A5 Wagyu, its richness tamed by the earthy notes of mushroom miso, rests atop seasoned rice. The addition of enoki mushrooms provides a delicate crunch, adding another dimension to a bite that feels both decadent and disciplined.
A lighter interlude followed with the Salmon Tataki Salad (AED 185). The fish, kissed by the flame, its heart still beautifully rare, retains its natural silkiness, while the supporting elements—avocado, cabbage salad, spring onion, and ponzu—add layers of texture and brightness. It's a dish that feels light, yet profoundly satisfying.
Inspired by Frantzén's renowned open-flame kitchen in Stockholm, the main courses at Studio Frantzén Dubai celebrate dishes cooked 'from the fireplace'. The Japanese Saroma A5 Wagyu beef (AED 345) boasts an impressive marbling and a sublime texture. The accompanying oxtail ponzu provides a rich, savoury depth and is paired perfectly with a side of Japanese-seasoned French fries (AED 45) topped with Parmesan cheese.
Studio Frantzén's walk-in Candy Room offers an interactive dessert experience, where guests enter a sweet-shop-of-sorts stacked with jars of Scandinavian confectionary, homemade ice cream and gleaming glass counters stocked with sweet treats ranging from Chilled Charentais Melon to Citrus Lemon Thyme Pavlova. We succumbed to the allure of the Chamomile & Ghaf Honey Cheesecake (AED 65). The delicate floral notes of chamomile infused the creamy cheesecake, while the local ghaf honey added a touch of sweetness. The buckwheat crumble provided a tempting texture, while the yuzu curd added a burst of citrus that cut through the richness of the dessert. It's a thoughtful, nuanced finale to a meal where every dish is a careful study of contrast and balance.
Björn Frantzén is known for his restaurants across the world, including the three MICHELIN-starred Frantzén in Stockholm and the three MICHELIN-starred Zén in Singapore. Now, the former footballer turned chef has joined the culinary roster at Atlantis, The Palm, alongside heavy hitters such as Gordon Ramsay, Heston Blumenthal, and Nobu Matsuhisa.
Service is prompt and genial, albeit slow at times. However, the experience feels both intimate and indulgent resulting in a dazzling Dubai debut for the champion chef.
Hej, Studio Frantzén.
GO: Visit www.studiofrantzendubai.com for more information.
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