I did this easy Welsh hike and ended up swimming under a huge waterfall
I did this easy Welsh hike and ended up swimming under a huge waterfall
These impressive falls lie at the northern tip of Lake Vyrnwy within an RSPB Reserve
There's nothing quite like cold water and a dramatic Welsh backdrop to remind you of the incredible natural world and how lucky we are to be a part of it
(Image: Portia Jones )
As an avid outdoor swimmer (yes, I am one of those people; yes, I have a dryrobe) I love epic waterfall swims and in Wales we have plenty of swim spots in scenic surroundings.
While visiting the hugely-underrated Lake Vyrnwy area in mid Wales I heard rumours about an easy walk to a cascading waterfall not far from the shores of the reservoir. Always keen for a dip I consulted the AllTrails app and found an easy hike to the secluded Rhiwargor Waterfall.
Popular with locals these impressive falls lie at the northern tip of Lake Vyrnwy within the RSPB reserve. Although often overlooked in favour of the towering 80m Pistyll Rhaeadr they offer an equally striking spectacle.
Pistyll Rhiwargor, with its total drop of 100m, is listed as the seventh-highest in Wales and is sustained by the tributary waters of Afon Eiddew, originating from the Berwyn mountains above Llyn Tegid in Y Bala, before eventually joining the reserves of Llyn Vyrnwy.
The picturesque waterfall is part of RSPB Cymru's Llyn Vyrnwy Nature Reserve and you'll find convenient free parking less than a mile off the B4393 offering picnic tables and typically ample room for cars, especially if you visit on a weekday.
The picturesque waterfall is part of RSPB Cymru's Llyn Vyrnwy Nature Reserve
(Image: Portia Jones )
The 1.5-mile walk to the falls is considered an easy route, taking around 45 minutes to an hour to complete. If you follow the trail on the AllTrails app it will take you along Afon Eiddew to the picturesque Rhiwargor Falls, also known as Pistyll Rhyd-y-meinciau.
As it's a hike to the falls you'll need to carry all your outdoor swim gear with you so make sure you have a big backpack and bring plenty of warm layers for after your dip. There are also no facilities here so make sure you have a well-timed loo stop before you set off.
The trail begins at the aforementioned car park (Rhiwargor Waterfall Car Park), which is accessible via a scenic drive along the lakeside road.
Once you arrive at the car park use a map or a hiking app to navigate the verdant valley floor path to the waterfalls. Hafren Dyfrdwy, which manages the parking site, has spent the last four months carrying out major restoration works after Storm Darragh caused significant damage.
They recently announced that the car park has reopened and that Blue Monday Coffee is back selling hot drinks, cakes, and snacks from the Rhiwargor car park each weekend. Tidy.
With the promise of sunshine it was an ideal morning for a dip so I convinced my long-suffering husband that, yes, there was yet another waterfall we simply must swim in and hopped in the car.
The morning we arrived the weather was unseasonably scorchio with blue skies and warm sunshine – perfect outdoor swim weather. I grabbed my gear and we headed up the trail, passing a meandering stream and gnarly trees.
It's a fairly easy trek and I've certainly undertaken more arduous walks to reach waterfalls before. We followed a well-maintained path along the Afon Eiddew River with undulating sections through woodland and along the riverbank towards the sounds of the cascading falls.
The morning we arrived the weather was unseasonably scorchio with blue skies and warm sunshine
(Image: Portia Jones )
We soon reached the base of the falls, which seemed like a perfect spot for a post-swim picnic.
Although we were visiting on a sunny day the area was still quite boggy so we had to carefully navigate the muddy sections on the left-hand side to reach the famous 'private' pools for a swim.
It can be a bit of a scramble so you'll definitely want hiking boots to get up the falls and you'll need to watch out for slippery parts.
Rather than a sheer drop the waterfall cascades down in a series of staggered stages into the river below with a craggy woodland hugging the falls. It's at these rocky stages that you can find small swimming spots with the roar of the waterfall above you.
I soon found us a perfect pool that was deep enough to paddle in with no-one else around despite the glorious weather.
I slipped off my boots, wriggled into my swim gear (a childhood spent changing on Welsh beaches fully prepared me for this), and plunged into the bracing waters.
I soon found us a perfect pool that was deep enough to paddle in with no-one else around despite the glorious weather
(Image: Portia Jones )
As usual the slight shock of wading into chilly water hit me first – a thrilling zing of cold that made me gasp and laugh all at once. But then came that glorious rush of feeling of a connection to nature and my surroundings. The water is also incredibly clear here and I could easily see to the bottom in parts of this refreshing pool.
There's something wildly freeing about swimming beneath a waterfall with the roar in your ears and the spray on your face. It's like pressing a giant reset button on all your life's stresses and endless emails. (Will I ever reach inbox zero? Probably not – but who cares when you're floating in crystal-clear waters?)
There's something wildly freeing about swimming beneath a waterfall
(Image: Portia Jones )
Outdoor swimming always helps clear my head but this scenic waterfall spot takes it to a whole new level. Pure lush. It was incredibly peaceful – I could feel the stress melting away. I know it might sound a bit woo-woo but, honestly, give it a go next time you're feeling frazzled. You might be surprised at how quickly nature sorts you out.
Besides the boffins agree. Several studies have shown that the health and wellbeing benefits of taking a cold water plunge include an immune system boost, improved sleep, a better stress response, and increased happiness. Who doesn't want to nap better?
For me there's nothing quite like cold water and a dramatic Welsh backdrop to remind you of the incredible natural world and how lucky we are to be a part of it.
After a languid swim it was time to head back to the hotel, the fabulous Lake Vyrnwy Hotel and Spa (read my review here), for dinner and a drink on their spectacular outdoor terrace. Located in a 24,000-acre estate on a forested hillside overlooking a dramatic, mountain-ringed lake this swish hotel commands one of the most impressive views of Lake Vyrnwy reservoir and has been wowing visitors since 1890.
It's an ideal base for exploring the area and is ideally positioned for panoramic views across the water and an alpine-looking landscape. Perched above the reservoir you're just a short walk or drive from a nature reserve, forested trails, and cascading waterfalls.
The view from the hotel
(Image: Portia Jones )
So would I recommend a waterfall dip at Pistyll Rhiwargor? In a heartbeat. It's become one of my favourite spots in Wales for a rejuvenating outdoor swim.
Just remember to treat this stunning spot with utmost care, take your rubbish home, avoid peak holiday times if possible, and be mindful of others enjoying this beautiful spot (no speakers blasting your terrible music choices, yeah?). Let's keep this spot special for everyone for many years to come.
Keen to swim? Here are some of my top tips and safety considerations.
Cold water swimming tips
Wild swimming can be challenging due to cold water and potentially hazardous terrain
(Image: Portia Jones )
Try to always swim with a friend if you can and always let people know where you are going. The What3Words app is really useful for sharing locations in remote areas.
Before heading out for an outdoor swimming session check the weather and the approximate water temperature of the location to ensure you are properly prepared.
If you're new to outdoor swimming consider a supervised swim session to try swimming in a controlled environment first.
Beautiful Llandegfedd Lake (on the border of Monmouth and Torfaen) offers supervised open-water swimming and dipping sessions with lifeguard-trained staff in attendance.
Several weekly sessions are held in a designated area for controlled open-water swimming and dipping following accreditation from the Swim Wales SAFE Cymru Accreditation Scheme.
Swim kit
Having a decent swim kit to stay warm and comfortable in cold waters is also really important.
(Image: Portia Jones )
Having a decent swim kit to stay warm and comfortable in cold waters is also really important.
The water here can be really cold so ensure you have adequate gear for an outdoor swim and are wearing decent water shoes (so you don't hurt your feet on the rocks).
Article continues below
If swimming in the autumn or winter dippers should consider items such as a decent winter wetsuit, booties, gloves, and a swim hat to reduce the impact of icy waters.
Other essential items include a tow float, warm layers, and a weatherproof changing robe.
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