In Pench And Tadoba National Park, A Thrilling Tiger Safari Through Mowgli's Land
In 1894, English author Rudyard Kipling wrote and published The Jungle Book. It became an instant hit, and Mowgli - its central character - soon became a household name. Set in a jungle teeming with life, the book explored the complex relationship between humans and nature.
Over the years, Kipling's story was adapted by several production houses, most notably Disney, turning it into a beloved tale of harmony between humans and animals. These adaptations became bedtime staples for many of us growing up. But did you know that The Jungle Book was primarily inspired by a real forest in India? Yes, you read that right.
Welcome to Pench National Park, located in Madhya Pradesh - often referred to as the Tiger State of India. Today, Pench is fondly known as 'Mowgli Land', drawing wildlife enthusiasts not just from across India but from around the world. As you explore its lush landscape, you'll come across statues of Mowgli scattered across villages near the park.
These aren't just decorative; they symbolise the deep-rooted belief in coexistence between humans and animals, a spirit that is very much still alive here.
That said, life near a national park and a tiger reserve is not without its dangers. Villages bordering the forest do sometimes suffer casualties. Yet, what's truly remarkable is the way these communities respond. Whenever such a tragedy occurs, the villagers often build a shrine dedicated to the tiger. It is both a gesture of mourning and a ritual of respect - they worship the tiger, seek forgiveness, and pray that such incidents do not happen again.
We stumbled upon one such shrine during our morning safari in Pench. In the middle of the forest, a statue of a tiger stood quietly by the trail - a powerful reminder of the reverence with which nature is held in this remarkable land.
A Slice Of Luxury In The Wild
To reach Pench, if you're coming from Delhi, it'll take around 4 to 5 hours - less than the time it takes to get to Ranthambore National Park. This includes a one-and-a-half-hour flight from Indira Gandhi International Airport to Nagpur, followed by a two-and-a-half-hour drive to Pench. From Mumbai, you can fly or take a train to Nagpur.
We landed in Nagpur on an early morning, after a flight from Delhi, and before we knew it, we were in Pench, soaking in the lush green forest and enjoying the better AQI.
Geographically, Pench straddles both Madhya Pradesh and Maharashtra. On the Madhya Pradesh side, the park includes a core area of 411.33 sq km, with a buffer zone of 768.3 sq km, totalling a protected area of 1,179.63 sq km.
The Pench Tiger Reserve, which also doubles as a national park, is home to around 50-58 species of mammals and over 210-288 bird species. Every villager here seems to have their own tiger tale - but one story towers above the rest.
The Saga Of Collarwali
Collarwali, or T-15, remains Pench's most famous resident. Nicknamed 'Supermum', this legendary tigress gave birth to 29 cubs (almost 23 of them survived) over her lifetime, before her death in 2022. Her legacy lives on through her offspring, many of whom still roam these forests.
The best decision when visiting Pench is to stay as close to the safari gates as possible - and that's exactly what we did. Just 1 km away, we stayed at the Pench Jungle Camp, a place that offers an immersive jungle experience with a touch of luxury.
The rooms were styled like tents but without any of the discomfort that normally comes with camping. The property included an in-house spa, a bar, a library, a games room, and a shared lounge area - yes, all in the middle of the forest! The interiors exuded a charming village feel, complete with rustic touches.
But what truly stood out was their commitment to sustainability. The property has been built without disturbing the natural landscape and no single-use plastics - even the toiletries provided to guests were plastic-free.
"We've built the entire property around the trees, and planted even more. The idea was simple - not to cut down a single tree in the process," says Raghuveer Singh, General Manager of the property.
Pench is also home to India's first Dark Sky Park, and only the fifth in Asia. It earned this recognition by keeping light pollution to a minimum, making it a dream for stargazers. And when the skies are clear, you can spot stars, constellations, and even planets through their in-house telescope.
Lookout For Big Cats
The main draw of Pench is, of course, its safaris - especially the night safari. It usually begins around 6 pm and continues till 9 pm, offering a rare opportunity to experience the forest after dark.
So, on our first day here, at sharp 6 o'clock, we set off for our night safari, hearts pounding with excitement at the chance of seeing nocturnal species - including the elusive tiger. While tiger sightings are rare, the real magic of the night safari lies in experiencing the forest after sundown. Few parks in India offer this experience.
We didn't spot much that night - apart from a few deer, some birds, and a ghost tree. But the crisp air, the absence of the usual heat, and the chorus of night birds made it memorable. The thrill of what might appear in the shadows added to the experience.
But for many visitors - and for us too - a safari feels incomplete without spotting a big cat. So, at 5 am the next morning, we headed out again, hoping to spot tigers, leopards, and more of the forest's rich flora and fauna.
And what did we see? Let the pictures speak for themselves.
However, even after spotting a leopard and several other species, the yearning to see a tiger still lingered. So, we headed to Tadoba - a reserve known for its higher tiger density - to try our luck once again.
The Legend Who Fought A Tiger
Tadoba National Park is a name that's becoming synonymous with tiger sightings in India. Established in 1955 and later merged with the Andhari Wildlife Sanctuary in 1995, the combined reserve now spans a massive 1,727 sq km. It is one of the 51 Project Tiger Reserves and one of the most reliable places to spot these elusive cats.
Ask any local, and you'll hear the tale of how Tadoba got its name. It comes from 'Taru' - a tribal leader, who is believed to have died in a mythical encounter with a tiger (and so did the tiger). The villagers, in reverence, built a shrine for Taru by the lake - and thus, the forest became known as Tadoba.
We stayed at Tadoba Jungle Camp, which is located in the buffer zone of Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve. The camp is strategically positioned within minutes of the Moharli gate, allowing easy access to both the core and buffer zones of the reserve.
Due to its location, guests are advised not to roam outside alone, and if you're just lucky enough, you might spot a tiger while you're having your morning tea or coffee in their restaurant area.
Everyone here, from the staff, and the guides, and naturalists have their own stories of their association with wildlife. For some, their job was more than just a job - they live and breathe wildlife.
One such person, we met was Yash Rajput, the General Manager who left his well-cushioned corporate job to move to the camp here, to be close to wildlife. He's had his own experiences with tigers of Tadoba, with quite a few near-face-to-face ones; the stories now he tells each guest with a chuckle.
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A post shared by Naresh Iyer 🇮🇳 (Narayanan Iyer) Wildlife Photographer (@eye4wild_naresh)
The property is built on a huge 10-acre land and each room has a rustic charm to it, with many artefacts in rooms and throughout the property made from woods of trees that naturally fall near or inside the property.
"We make sure not even a single tree is cut during construction. We process waste in-house and use minimal plastic," says Yash.
MD GS Rathore, the mind behind the Jungle Camps India brand, adds, "We don't build in nature. We build around it."
He believes travellers today - especially Indians - are growing increasingly conscious about sustainable travel. When asked why Pench and Tadoba haven't caught on as quickly with Delhiites and North Indians, he quips, "Central India has always had its secrets. People just didn't realise the travel time is the same as the more popular parks. But that's changing now."
And it must change, because the experience here is far richer, even during your safaris.
Speaking of safaris, Tadoba is said to be one of those parks that never "lets you leave disappointed" - or so we heard from almost everyone the moment set foot in the reserve. However, we soon realised that a successful wildlife sighting also depends heavily on the expertise of your naturalist and guide. With mobile phones prohibited in the area, their keen eyes and deep understanding of the terrain become crucial. The naturalist assigned to us depended on our choice of accommodation, as most lodges provide one to accompany guests during their safari. And how was our experience?
Take a look.
If you find yourself seeking something beyond the usual daytime and night safaris, Tadoba's water safari is an excellent alternative. The experience itself is incredibly calming-you can watch birds gliding above, fish swimming beneath, and perhaps even catch sight of a jackal. And if luck is on your side, you may witness a tiger emerging from the forest for a drink at Irai Lake, a lifeline for both the park's wildlife and the villages that depend on its waters.
The Final Roar
If you're seeking a wildlife experience that goes beyond the checklist of tiger sightings, Pench and Tadoba promise something rare - a richly rewarding escape into the wild heart of India. Stories of coexistence, of communities that respect nature, and of legends that live on in every rustle of the trees.
So, the next time you think of Ranthambore or Jim Corbett, remember: the soul of The Jungle Book is very much alive in the heart of India. And it's still undiscovered, mostly.
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