Exploring the wilds of the Hebrides by day - and lapping up luxury by night

I'm standing on deck in my socks as the grey water churns and salt sprays into my eyes, not noticing that my feet are getting soaked.
Why?
Dolphins!
Leaping all around our ship – a former Norwegian rescue vessel, the Elizabeth G – is a pod of at least six huge, sleek bottlenose dolphins, playing and diving in the waves.
My partner Steve and I were dozing in our cosy cabin when wildlife guide Rebecca came to fetch us.
Thank goodness she did. We wouldn't have wanted to miss this magical moment.
All the guests on board – there are six of us, out of a potential eight on this vessel – are enchanted.
This is the first cetacean sighting we've had on our six-night 'Idyllic Islands' cruise around the Inner Hebrides – but it won't be the last.
Let me rewind.
The cruise sets off in style from Oban on Saturday afternoon. All our luggage is taken on board a few hours earlier and stowed neatly in our cabins prior to arrival.
That means by the time our little band of guests arrives, all that's left to do is a short safety briefing before lifting anchor.
But first, 4pm prosecco and a homemade sweet treat! A daily occurrence on board, I'm delighted to discover.
This is a great chance for the group to get acquainted. After all, we're going to be in close quarters for the next six nights and seven days.
I'm always curious about the types of people who go on trips like this, and this group is a proper mixed bag.
It comprises myself and Steve (two 30-something young professionals), Alec and Pip (a retired couple who now run a B&B in the Lake District), Cathy (a retired teacher with an adventurous spirit) and Thomas, a married dad-of-two here to take photos.
Add on the crew – experienced skipper and Hebrides Cruises owner Rob Barlow, second skipper Iain Malcolm, longtime steward Craig Robison, new wildlife guide Rebecca and new chef Sally Williams, it's a busy little boat indeed.
Or ship, I should say. Rob tells us the difference is that a ship has a deck you can walk all the way around.
A man of few words during the days' sailing, he's a treasure trove of a maritime knowledge, and spends a few evening entertaining us with his seafaring tales.
After departing Oban on the first day, we steam up the Sound of Mull, taking in the sights from either the upper decks (wrapped up against the wind) or the large windows of the indoor common area.
We anchor for the night at Loch na Drom Buidhe, a beautifully tranquil sea loch near Oronsay. It's perfect, a still shelter. I don't think I've ever been anywhere so quiet.
Dinner the first night – as every night – is sublime.
Sally cooks relentlessly, feeding us hot breakfasts in the morning of eggs, sausages or smoked salmon; light lunches bursting with fresh veggies and filo pastry; beautiful homemade bakes at teatime, and elaborate, four-course evening meals featuring the best of local produce – hand-dived scallops, fresh oysters and mussels.
Wine flows plentifully (included in the package) with Craig filling up everyone's glasses before they can even approach empty.
This is where the real luxury of the Hebrides Cruises experience lies. Calm waters can't be promised, nor good weather, nor legroom. But not once do we want for anything.
Our every need and desire has been anticipated, from the well-designed cabin bathrooms with toilet paper covers to stop the shower getting it wet (genius) to the expertly mapped out routes (responding to conditions and explained each evening), right down to the onboard supply of sunscreen and seasickness medicine.
They also have a fully stocked bar, for those who wish to imbibe.
But each day we're up at 7am, and in bed by 9pm, happily shattered by the day's adventures – both environmental and gastronomical.
There's no need to think, only to enjoy.
Which brings me to the real point of the cruise – the scenery, and the wildlife, which guide Rebecca is on the ball with pointing out.
The ship tracks roughly around Mull, with stops on land every day, which we get to by tender. Each one feels like a different world.
We explore the magical, mossy forests of community-owned island Ulva, with white-tailed sea-eagles wheeling above at dizzying heights.
I've never been so grateful to have brought binoculars.
The group scrambles over the craggy peaks of millionaire-owned Gometra, stunned by the population of giant ravens keeping watch over the wild, treeless land.
There's a landing on the eerie, grassy isle of Inch Kenneth, and of course the stunningly spiritual Iona, where Christianity in Britain is said to have originated and the white sand beaches look more Caribbean than Scottish.
For me, a highlight is a sunny afternoon spent on Lunga. One of the Treshnish Isles, this island is uninhabited – by humans, at least.
But there we encounter an enormous puffin colony nesting on the cliff edge. Steve and I happily while away several hours watching the tiny, clown-like birds go about their cartoonish business.
Another heart-bursting wildlife sighting comes at Mull's Loch Spelve. We stop here because it's a prime spot for otter sightings, and we're not disappointed.
Not one, not two, but three Eurasian otters, hunting, playing and snoozing. For animal lovers, seeing these amazing creatures in their natural habitat is beyond special.
Out at sea, there's plenty of opportunity for wildlife spotting too. Our group sees seals, a minke whale, porpoises, and countless seabirds including gannets, cormorants and shags.
On a night, the stars are incomprehensible. Have you ever looked at the night sky so long, you think you might fall right into it?
Below, fluorescent moon jellyfish set the water softly aglow.
By the time we've circled Mull, spending our last evening anchored at Jurassic-looking Kerrera, it feels like we've been on some far-flung voyage.
We've not gone far, but we've seen so much.
We leave the cruise significantly rounder, and forever changed inside.
Today I'm still dreaming of the dolphins, the stars – and Sally's homemade treacle tart.

Try Our AI Features

Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:

Learn with AIFact CheckingText to SpeechAI Summary

Related Articles

Metro

a day ago

• Metro

The most beautiful European islands that aren't in Greece

When you think of islands in Europe, the first country that springs to mind is Greece. And for good reason. From azure waters and pretty coastlines to the laid-back feel that only comes with island life, it's no surprise that 4.5 million Brits flock here each year. But, as Greek hostpots like Santorini grapple with the effects of overtourism and the threat of earthquakes, many are looking to go off-the-beaten-path and give these areas a chance to recover. Europe is bursting with islands (the Mediterranean is said to have over 10,000 alone), so we're spoilt for choice. Whether you're looking for a classic island experience with sea, sun and sand, or something a little wilder, the continent delivers in spades. Before you start booking flights to traditional hotspots like Mallorca or Tenerife, we asked Metro readers to share their favourite island recommendations. Here's what they said. Fuel your wanderlust with our curated newsletter of travel deals, guides and inspiration. Sign up here. First up, Harry Dinn flies the flag for both Madeira and the Azores. The former – an autonomous region of Portugal – sits off the northwest coast of Africa, and is known for its namesake wine and a subtropical climate. The latter, also belonging to Portugal, is an archipelago of nine volcanic islands in the North Atlantic. Its dramatic landscapes of crater lakes, lush greenery, lava caves and hot springs make it the perfect destination for adventure seekers. For James Smith, any of Norway's 239,057 islands are worth a trip. While you're there, you can also see the fjords, long, narrow inlets with steep sides or cliffs that sit along the Norwegian coast (mostly in the west). Two of the fjords, Geirangerfjord and the Nærøyfjord, are UNESCO World Heritage sites. Many visit by boat; the cruise season runs from May to September. Jacqui Morgan, Peter B Holloway, and David Gray are just three of our readers who rave about Cyprus, while Frank Vinci says you can't look past Sardinia in Italy and Corsica in France. Shwamle Browne Gertrude agrees that Sardinia has 'gorgeous beaches, ancient ruins, and rugged inland beauty.' Matthew Allen and Peter B Holloway opt for Malta and Gozo, the latter of which sits just above the main island. If you're struggling to decide which to pick as your base, Matthew says both are 'gorgeous countries.' They're also so close to one another that many people head to Gozo on day trips from Cirkewwa or Valetta, Malta's capital. The Gozo Channel ferry from Ċirkewwa to Gozo costs €4.65 (3.97) for foot passengers and takes approximately 25 minutes. From Valetta on a high-speed ferry, prices start from €22.87 (£19.54). The journey takes around 45 minutes. Further north, Robert Edwin Wareham recommends Langeland in Denmark. In fact, he loves the island so much that he even has a holiday home there. Also belonging to the Kingdom of Denmark are the Faroe Islands, which David, Erjona Mehilli and Rose Magalona all rave about. Metro's Travel Editor Alice Murphy just returned from a trip to the Faroe Islands, she'll be writing about that very soon, so keep an eye out. Over in the Baltics, Mikko Haapanen suggests travellers make a trip to Ruhnu in Estonia. The tiny island is home to around 100 permanent residents. In the summer, it slightly increases to about 150. The landscape is mostly flat, with sandy beaches and forests. This makes it the perfect location for outdoor lovers, who can hike, birdwatch, and go wild swimming. Historical sites like St. Madeline's Church and Ruhnu Lighthouse are top attractions, as is the Ruhnu Museum, where you can learn about the island's history. Finally, if you're in the mood for la dolce vita, Adeline Poppito-Tangredi recommends Ischia, a volcanic island in the Gulf of Naples, and Isola Bella, one of the Borromean islands of Lake Maggiore in northern Italy. Its name translates to 'beautiful island.' Nature lovers and thrill seekers, pack your bags. And then unpack them. And pack them again. The Azores – otherwise referred to as the 'Hawaii of Europe' – have nine islands, so it's the perfect place to island hop. Each one is unique, so you get multiple holidays in one. Whale and dolphin watching tours are available on multiple islands. The Azores are a prime location for spotting various species, because they sit in migratory routes for Blue and Fin Whales. From Ponta Delgada on São Miguel Island (and also the capital of the Azores), spend two to three hours on an open boat for £56.65 per person. If you don't spot any whales or dolphins, you get a full refund. Back on land, hike across the diverse landscape of volcanic craters, lava caves (like Gruta do Natal on Terceira island), crater lakes (like Sete Cidades and Lagoa do Fogo on São Miguel), and the black sand beach of Capelinhos. Mount Pico on Pico Island is the highest peak in Portugal and is a popular challenge among experienced hikers. After getting your steps in, relax in the many thermal baths and pools. Furnas and Parque Terra Nostra are popular spots. Most springs charge an entrance fee, but some, like Poça da Tia Silvina, also on São Miguel, are free. In terms of beaches, Praia do Areal de Santa Bárbara is widely regarded as the most beautiful. The 1.5km stretch of coastline is perfect for sunbathing and surfing, as the shallow water but great waves make for ideal conditions. Out on the ocean, you can explore the Azores by kayak or paddleboard. The calm waters of the twin lakes, Lagoa Azul and Lagoa Verde, in São Miguel are favoured, while for canyoning and coasteering, Caloura is the place to be. For £60, you can spend three hours climbing, swimming, rock scrambling and exploring the Azores' many inlets and caves. If history is more your thing, Angra do Heroísmo on Terceira Island is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The town dates back to the 15th century and was an obligatory port of call until the advent of the steamship in the 19th century. The San Sebastião and San João Baptista fortifications are over 400 years old and provide examples of unique military architecture. Finally, no trip to the Azores is complete without trying the cuisine. There's a strong focus on local ingredients, including fruit, veg, meat and fish. Thanks to the abundant Atlantic waters, fresh fish and shellfish like limpets, barnacles, and tuna are rife. In terms of the dishes, many are influenced by Portuguese traditions, with specialities such as Cozido das Furnas, a stew cooked in geothermal heat. (Did we mention the Azores are volcanic islands?) TripAdvisor rates Restaurante Tradicional e Típico Quinta do Martelo as the number one restaurant in the Azores. It previously won first place in the Gastronomy – National Heritage competition. The reviews agree, with many complimenting the service, plentiful portions, and amazing food. At a glance, prices aren't extortionate. Fried horse mackerel with cake in a pan costs €15 (12.81), while a rump of beef from the farm will set you back €38 (32.45) for two people. Affectionately referred to as 'L'Île de Beauté', or 'The Isle of Beauty,' the Mediterranean island of Corsica is a jewel in France's crown. A mix of coastal towns, lush forest and craggy peaks, Corsica lies southeast of France, west of Italy, and north of Sardinia. Its best beaches include Santa Giulia, a shimmering bay with shallow, clear water, Saleccia, a secluded cove with soft white sand and turquoise water, and Palombaggia, complete with azure ocean and pillow-soft sand. Hike-wise, Corsica ticks all the boxes. The most famous is the GR20, a challenging, long-distance trail that is considered one of the toughest in Europe. The Bavella Needles are also impressive: rocky spikes of red granite dominate the mountain and can be found in Corsica's Regional National Park. As for the Calanques de Piana and Scandola Nature Reserve, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, you have the luxury of choosing between hiking around both, or taking the more relaxed route by boat. From Porto (not the Portuguese city), join a three-hour Scandola and Girolata boat tour for £39. You'll sail around the reserve in a hybrid boat, stopping in the remote village of Girolata, which is only accessible from the sea. More Trending Another boat trip worth looking into is the route around the Lavezzi Islands, a collection of islets and reefs that separate Corsica from Sardinia. A half-day tour from Bonifacio starts at £74pp. After exploring the archipelago, head to the vineyards of Patrimonio to sample local wines. Le Clos Teddi, a wine estate located in the heart of the Agriate desert, offers experiences starting from €15.00 (£12.81). Over half an hour, you'll taste the winery's red, rosé and white, plus two vintages. Due to Corsica's location, the cuisine is a blend of French and Italian. Local ingredients such as chestnuts, cured meats, and seafood are prominent, with dishes ranging from hearty stews, fresh fish, Corsican charcuterie, and veau aux olives (veal with olives). Restaurant Santa Margherita takes the top spot on TripAdvisor, serving French and Mediterranean meals. One diner went so far as to call their experience a 'rare and precious moment'. MORE: I fell head over heels for Europe's last hidden gem — it just got easier to explore MORE: Historic 'hidden gem' Turkish destinations get new UK flight routes MORE: The 'enchanting' UK town with five beaches that's only 58 minutes from London

Daily Record

2 days ago

• Daily Record

Travelers leader admits PGA Tour shock and taking inspiration from Euro hero

Austin Eckroat motivated by the magic of ex-landlord and Euro Ryder Cup ace Austin Eckroat admits the inspiration of Euro pal Viktor Hovland remains key in overcoming the shock and enormity of the PGA Tour. The 26-year-old displayed his obvious prowess by matching Scottie Scheffler's opening 62 at the Travelers Championship. ‌ Eckroat is a two-time winner on the main circuit having turned pro five years ago, but says he still has pinch-me moments amongst the elite. ‌ Progressed through Oklahoma State College, he and Ryder Cup Hovland are big pals and he used to rent a room from the Norwegian in his house. Eckroat explained: 'It's funny, a lot of Wednesdays I've felt really good going into the tournament and then Thursday comes around and it hasn't been there. I don't know if it's just the stress of playing in a PGA Tour. 'I wouldn't say they were role models, but my team-mates came out here immediately and had success, Viktor and Matt Wolff, and they kind of gave me the confidence going in at the time that I knew compete with them so I knew I could compete out here. 'But it's a different ball game out here. Week in, week out, you're having to grind. The mental aspect of it with playing in front of people with cameras and all that stuff, I'd say I was aware of it just because I had two buddies that had just done it, but it's still a shock when you get out here. 'This is one of my favorite events of the year outside of that, but then add in on top of that they gave me a sponsor exemption, gave me an opportunity to play with the best players in the world back in 2021 and just really thankful for Travelers and everybody involved in this event to give me that opportunity. I played well that week. I just have great memories coming back here, and it's definitely one of my favorite stops of the year. 'It's funny, the weeks that we play, they all run together now, but I remember doing a little media thing for Travelers and every now and then it'll pop up on my social media, like come back around. I don't have any logos on my shirt, I'm wearing just standard clothing. It's funny just looking back on what's happened since then. It's pretty cool. 'My college coach when I was at Oklahoma State used to always say, when you're off, you're never that far from playing good golf. And whenever you're on, you're not that far from playing bad golf. You're playing on a fine line and confidence plays a huge part in it. 'I've felt close all year and that's why I kept playing. I felt like a week was coming and it was just all going to click. I just needed one good round and I was going to be good. It just hadn't happened yet.'

North Wales Chronicle

3 days ago

• North Wales Chronicle

New rules could see end of close-up polar bear photos in cruise brochures

Akvile Marozaite, chief executive of UK-based global representative body Expedition Cruise Network, said limits on how close ships can get to the animals means the sector must change 'how we communicate' with travellers. Polar bears are a key draw for people embarking on sailings to Norwegian-ruled archipelago Svalbard, as they can be observed in their natural Arctic habit. But concerns about interference from humans means the government has banned ships in the region from being closer than 500 metres from the animals. Ms Marozaite said the sector is partly paying the price for 'always talking about polar bears' in relation to Svalbard trips. She told the PA news agency: 'Of course they are something that people want to see, but expedition cruising to Svalbard is actually an incredible opportunity to experience a lot of other things about the destination. 'There is incredible human history, beautiful scenery, other species of wildlife.' Ms Marozaite said cruise lines are continuing to show their guests polar bears, some by sailing closer to Greenland. The impact of Norway's distance rule is 'more to do with how we communicate', she said. 'The communication around Arctic voyages is going to change. 'Companies hopefully will no longer be putting close-up images of polar bears on the brochure. 'That's a good thing, because finally we will start talking about the destination the way it should be talked about.' But expedition leader and photographer Paul Goldstein criticised the new regulations. He told The Independent's travel podcast: 'This is a classic example of what I term 'conservation fascism'. 'I have led small ship charters in the region since 2004. 'Never once have I seen a single incident where tourists intimidate or affect the behaviour of polar bears.' He added that if a camera lens 'the size of a Stinger missile' is required to see polar bears then most visitors will miss out. Norway's minister of climate and environment Andreas Bjelland Erikse previously said the rules are necessary as climate change is 'leading to more difficult conditions for polar bears on Svalbard'. He went on: 'It is important for them to be able to search for food, hunt, rest and take care of their cubs without interference from humans. 'That is why we must keep a good distance.' The minimum distance will be reduced to 300 metres from July 1. The Norwegian government said visitors to Svalbard have 'a duty to retreat to a legal distance' if they encounter a polar bear that is too close. Ships are also banned from carrying more than 200 passengers in the region.