San Francisco's Next Great Chocolatier Has Arrived
Mark Lieuw is storing an oven in his mom's basement. It's the same oven that San Francisco chocolate institution Jade Chocolate used at its soon-to-close Chinatown location. He threw his back out moving it. There's a tempering machine in the basement, too. It's from Carol Gancia's Kokak Chocolates; Gancia announced in April that she was closing her retail location to focus on her online business. In a sense, the basement has become a monument to the city's chocolatiers — a passing of the torch, or rather equipment, from one generation of chocolatiers to the next.
Lieuw had a rigorous run in fine dining. Pastry chef at Saison, the Wild (formerly Gozu), Sorrel. He cooked on the savory side at now-closed Meadowood. Now, like so many Bay Area luminaries before him, he's on the startup grind. Lieuw struck out on his own in December 2024 and opened Stay Sweet SF. The 10-by-10-foot cave at his mom's house is now Stay Sweet SF headquarters. 'She would always tell me to stop working so hard for someone else's dream and invest in my own,' Lieuw says.
Selling seven kinds of bars, Lieuw's roster paints a sweet and creamy tapestry of San Francisco life and its many flavors. His shiitake mushroom chocolate bar is one of his most popular; a Karl the Fog bar tastes like a coffee caramel medley with notes as deep as a San Francisco fog bank. He uses farmers' market produce in his chocolate. For Chinese New Year, he bought mandarins at the Ferry Building for an orange marmalade bar. 'What I want to create more than ever is a very California, San Francisco product,' Lieuw says. 'I don't see that in chocolate right now.'
But the timing is just as critical to Lieuw's moment as his skill. Beyond Jade and Kokak, Santa Clara's Charlotte Truffles is going on 'indefinite hiatus.' Numerous other players in the Bay have been impacted by the highest cocoa prices in more than 60 years, per Confectionary News. To be fair, the colorful and exquisite treats at Topogato are getting the star treatment at owner Simon Brown's first permanent location on Geary Boulevard. But thanks to a somewhat stale San Francisco chocolate game — for reasons not within confectioners' control by and large — Stay Sweet SF is a rare, hopeful light.
It was thanks to that Sorrel stint that he nabbed one of Stay Sweet SF's first big breaks. The florist across the street from Sorrel, Fleurt, offered him space for a Valentine's Day pop-up. Between 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. he sold 10 boxes of chocolate — one of which happened to go to a San Francisco Chronicle food critic. Mackenzie Chung-Fegan's write-up rhapsodized on Lieuw's strawberries-and-cream and raspberry-pink peppercorn-marshmallow bonbons, and dropped two days before February 14. In his words, the attention sent him on 'quite the rollercoaster.'
It's an auspicious time for chocolate in San Francisco. The history of sweet gold ingots in the Bay is long-standing, with Domingo Ghirardelli launching the country's longest-running factory in the country in 1852. Since then, there's been 1996's Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker in Berkeley (acquired by Hershey in the '00s), Tcho's tech-focused birth in 2005, and Dandelion Chocolate in 2012. Smaller players entered the ring — the Lieu sisters with wine country's Socola Chocolatier in 2001, Malena Lopez-Maggi churning out plant-based goodies in the East Bay at the Xocolate Bar since 2006.
Jade and Kokak's closings are a reminder that the San Francisco business climate has changed dramatically since the late 19th-century Gold Rush. To be fair, Jade's Mindy Fong wants to focus on family, and Gancia is focusing on her health. But operating a restaurant, cafe, and certainly a sweets shop can seem impossible in 2025 San Francisco. A few blocks from Kokak on Castro Street, the former Dogo Love retail space is on the market for just over $5,000 a month.
That sweet history, and precarious present, is the context Lieuw steps into. He was born and raised in the city. He graduated college in San Francisco with a degree in biology and minors in math and chemistry. He wanted to be a pediatrician and even worked at UCSF for awhile before taking a year off. He enrolled at Le Cordon Bleu in 2012 after his mom suggested he try his hand at cooking. 'I never looked back,' Lieuw says.
He joined the opening team at Pier 5's Coqueta, and headed there after finishing his culinary school classes each day. On his days off, he'd pick up shifts at Atelier Crenn. For an externship, he found a way into Eleven Madison Park in New York. (It was the only restaurant that got back to him of eight places he emailed.) Before returning to San Francisco, he crossed working at Le Bernardin and Nomad off his list to be on the safe side.
His first Stay Sweet SF pop-ups were at Pacifica's Craftsman Coffee in May 2024. He'd use the kitchen at whatever swanky restaurant he was at to make the bars, then drive south to sell his sweets. Golden Goat Coffee in SoMa and Breadbelly in Outer Richmond have been supporters and venues, too. Cottage business licensing allows him to work from his family's house and continue growing the nascent brand. There's no rush to take on a big rent payment that a landlord could hike into oblivion just yet.
That said, of course, he dreams of opening a storefront someday. He envisions a small shop in Chinatown to appeal to tourists. For now, he's going day by day. He just finalized his logo and branding, which nods to Chinese knots meant to invoke good luck. At the beginning of April, he cleaned up at the annual San Francisco Chocolate Salon. He took home six out of nine People's Choice Awards at the Golden Gate Park event in addition to two golds from the judges.
'Everybody always tells me I do good work,' Lieuw says. 'But there's always that fear in the back of your mind. You're like 'Can I do this? Is this really working? Is this happening?''
Sign up for our newsletter.
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
New York Post
3 days ago
- New York Post
Anne Burrell reflected on settling down with her husband after ‘living the rock star chef life' before her death
Anne Burrell shared insight into her life months before her tragic death on Tuesday. The celebrity chef was found unresponsive in the shower at her home in Brooklyn, New York before being pronounced dead at the scene at age 55, police said. Just three months prior, Burrell went on Tori Spelling's 'misSPELLING' podcast, where she dove into marrying her husband Stuart Claxton in 2021. The couple had met on the dating app Bumble in 2018. 8 Anne Burrell in 2017. Phil & Anne's Good Time Lounge / Facebook The 'Beverly Hills, 90210' star asked the 'Worst Cooks in America' host if she purposely waited to settle down. 'From when I was a kid, I don't know why, but I always was like, I am not getting married until I feel like I have something in life to share,' Burrell explained, 'until I have accomplished stuff.' 'I was living my best life!' she added about her 20s and 30s. 'I was like, living the rock star chef life. I was working a lot, and I had a great social life.' 8 Anne Burrell on Food Network. Instagram/@chefbeaumac Then, one day, Burrell's perspective shifted. 'I just started to feel like, all right, you're getting a little old to keep on doing this,' she recalled. Along with a husband, Burrell also gained a stepson Javier. 'Kids were never on my radar, really,' the cook confessed. 'I love being an aunt. I have nieces and nephews. So I'm like, [being a stepmom] is the perfect amount of parenting for me.' 8 Rachael Ray and Anne Burrell. rachaelray/Instagram Over the years, Burrell has opened up about her relationship, recently telling the Daily Mail in April, 'October will be four years. It seems like it's been four minutes. I don't know if it's a honeymoon [phase] but I feel like it's settled into married life days which I really enjoy.' In honor of Valentine's Day in 2022, the step-mom gushed over her other half, penning, 'You make me the happiest girl in the world!!! I love you to the moon and back my sweet!!!' As for meeting Mr. Right, Burrell once admitted Claxton also felt the instant spark between them. 8 Anne Burrell in 2017 at the Good Time Lounge. Anne Burrell 'I don't know if we had both thought of marriage, but we both were like, 'Oh, yeah, this is something,'' Burrell told People in 2020. ''This is really going to be real and this is going to turn into something.'' 'Once you get to be a woman of 50 years old, you don't really think that marriage is going to be on the plate for you,' she detailed. 'I was always really focused on my career and marriage was never a huge thing in my life that I was looking for. Then when I met Stuart, my opinion about all that changed.' Giving followers glimpses into their lives over the years, Burrell posted a month after their wedding, in a 2021 Thanksgiving post, 'A new home, a wedding, a stepson, great family, great friends, good health, great fans and just so much more!!! Lots of love to all!!!' 8 Anne Burrell at the Austin Food and Wine Festival. Scott Moore/Shutterstock Two years after their nuptials, the couple was still as in love as ever. 'I have to say, I love being married,' Burrell told People in 2023. 'We're together all the time because Stuart works from home. It's the being together all the time, but it's also the adventure together.' 'It's been wonderful, to say the least,' echoed Claxton. 'Anne and I hadn't lived together before we moved in and got married, so it's been a whole adventure, but very lovely at the same time.' The businessman has yet to address Burrell's death, however, her family confirmed the news in a statement to People on Tuesday. 8 Anne Burrell in 2015. Larry Marano/Shutterstock 'Anne was a beloved wife, sister, daughter, stepmother, and friend — her smile lit up every room she entered,' they shared. 'Anne's light radiated far beyond those she knew, touching millions across the world. Though she is no longer with us, her warmth, spirit, and boundless love remain eternal.' A cause of death has yet to be revealed. That same day, police officers shared that EMS 'responded and pronounced her deceased on scene,' sharing that the 911 call was originally for a reported cardiac arrest. 8 Anne Burrell at Grand Tasting Village in Miami, Florida. Gcaballero/Southbeachphoto/Shutterstock On Thursday, sources told The Post Burell's body was found next to dozens of pills. The author's death is still an ongoing investigation. Burrell is best known for hosting 'Worst Cooks in America' on Food Network for 27 seasons, from 2010 to 2024. After her passing, a representative from Food Network shared with The Post: 'Anne was a remarkable person and culinary talent — teaching, competing and always sharing the importance of food in her life and the joy that a delicious meal can bring. Our thoughts are with Anne's family, friends and fans during this time of tremendous loss.' 8 Anne Burrell and her husband Stuart Claxton. chefanneburrell/Instagam During her time at the Food Network, Burrell became close pals with Rachael Ray — who judged 'Worst Cooks' from 2015 to 2017 — and fellow chef Alex Guarnaschelli. Both ladies paid tribute to Burrell, with Ray, 56, writing in part, 'I'll miss her friendship deeply. Everyone whose life she touched will miss her. Sending love to Stuart and everyone who knew and loved Anne. We've lost someone truly special.' Guarnaschelli, 55, noted in her own post, 'Make this moment about her. She'd want you to go out, raise a glass, sing karaoke (including this Sia song–one of her favorite 'Worst Cooks' warm up songs) and be able to say, like she does, #ilovewhatido –so do it for her. In her honor.'
Axios
3 days ago
- Axios
Savage X Fenty doubles down on inclusion, even as others pull back
For Savage X Fenty, the lingerie line founded by Rihanna, DEI is at the center of all that they do, chief marketing officer Vanessa Wallace said at a recent Axios event in Cannes. Why it matters: As many brands quietly retreat from diversity, equity and inclusion commitments, Savage X Fenty is leaning in, building its identity and commercial strategy around its brand values. What she's saying: "From the beginning, Rihanna has stood for inclusivity," Wallace said. "Savage X Fenty redefined what inclusive looks like in lingerie. We always say: it's not the size that defines you — it's your confidence." Zoom in: The brand's Valentine's Day campaign, Love Your Way, exemplified that ethos by spotlighting different forms of love — self-love, romantic love, sisterhood and friendship. "It wasn't about being disruptive," Wallace said. "It was about being true to who we are and giving people the power to define love for themselves." The intrigue: Because the company's values are so embedded and understood by its consumer base, there was very little pushback to the campaign, says Wallace. "The community applauded it," she says. "When I'm scrolling TikTok or reading comments, it's clear people recognized what we were doing. We're just showing up authentically — and always trying to elevate voices that aren't often heard." Zoom in: While "The Navy," Rihanna's fan base, remains central, the brand is also growing into mainstream retail. Savage X Fenty can now be found in Nordstrom in the U.S., Galeries Lafayette in France, and Selfridges in the U.K. "It's our chance to meet the girl next door," Wallace said. What to watch: Expect more creative collaborations and a push into sports.
Eater
5 days ago
- Eater
Here Are the Bay Area's Most Anticipated Restaurant Openings for Summer 2025
We're halfway through 2025, and the San Francisco Bay Area has seen a parade of exciting restaurant and bar openings spice up the food and beverage scene. But now that summer is here, a new roster of restaurants is readying to join the fray, perfect for sun-filled outings with your besties. Explore Filipino cuisine from a French Laundry alum, or grab some pastries from a new bakery by the Michelin-starred team at Sorrel. Meanwhile, a modern Chinese pop-up is perfecting its new Hayes Valley restaurant space, and a Marina bar flips into a restaurant inspired by New York- and New Jersey-style Jewish delis. There's a lot to explore this summer, and here's your guide to the hottest places opening in the next few months. Chef Jade Cunningham is a pop-up veteran bringing Filipino food to a new permanent spot in Napa with the opening of Carabao. Cunningham grew up in the Philippines, helping with her aunt's eatery in Bulacan, but when she set out for her culinary internship in the United States, she settled in Napa, landing at the Meritage Resort before later joining three-Michelin-starred The French Laundry. At Carabao, Cunningham promises familiar Filipino flavors, but done up with local produce and techniques from her culinary background. The menu will feature items such as Filipino favorite sisig, as well as squid adobo, lumpia, and more. 145 C Gasser Drive, Napa. . Opening: Parachute opens in July, Arquet opens in August The minds behind Michelin-starred Sorrel have doubled down on the Ferry Building, opening not one, but two projects on San Francisco's waterfront. Set to open first is Parachute, a new bakery led by executive pastry chef Nasir Zainulabadinand, highlighting laminated treats. That bakery will be connected to the larger Arquet, a new restaurant from chef Alex Hong that's taken over the former Slanted Door space at the Ferry Building. There, Hong will serve a 'seasonal ingredient menu rooted in the bounty of the California coastline,' per a press release, utilizing wood-fire cooking techniques. 1 Ferry Building, Suite 5, San Francisco. and . Chef James Yeun Leong Parry has been touring the Happy Crane concept as a pop-up since 2023, showing off his personal style of contemporary Chinese cuisine at Rich Table, Nisei, Pacific Cocktail Haven, and more. But now the chef has finally put down roots in Hayes Valley, taking over the former Monsieur Benjamin space and renovating it for the Happy Crane's summer debut. Diners can expect a menu that is a culmination of Parry's extensive cooking background of working at restaurants in Hong Kong and Tokyo, as well as Benu and Palette Tea House. Think roasted meats such as char siu, noodles made in-house, plus a 'playful selection' of dim sum and small plates, per a press release. 451 Gough Street, San Francisco. . The Causwells team is close to opening their take on classic New York and New Jersey Jewish delis, plopped into the heart of the Marina. Chef Adam Rosenblum and beverage director Elmer Mejicanos have closed down their low-proof bar Lilah and are set to install Super Mensch in its place, highlighting comfort food deli classics such as house-cured and smoked pastrami, as well as latkes, Reubens on rye, and more. Not to be left out of the equation, Mejicanos is readying a deli-worthy cocktail menu thanks to a new, full liquor license, with flavors such as egg cream and celery soda at the heart of its drinks. 2336 Chestnut Street, San Francisco. . The new permanent spot for Chicano Nuevo has been in the works for the last two years, but its time to shine is nearly here; chef Abraham Nuñez is close to opening the doors to his Bernal Heights restaurant in late August to early September. It's a happy ending that's been a long time coming, from the restaurant's residency days at Broken Record to Nuñez's stints at Cockscomb and State Bird Provisions. Nuñez's partner, Courtney Fujita, is also an industry pro who is working toward the restaurant's opening at the end of the summer. No menu details yet, but diners can expect the same big flavors the pop-up has touted all these years, such as a tamale negro stunner that landed as a Best Dish in 2024. 3355 Mission Street, San Francisco. . Chisme is the brainchild of chef Manuel Bonilla, where he's taken dive bar food and amped it up with Filipino and Salvadoran flavors. Chisme took up residency at Oakland's Low Bar last year, but it recently decamped to start over as Bar Chisme, taking on the former Kon-Tiki space at 347 14th Street in Oakland. It's a full-circle moment for Bonilla, who pioneered the popular burger at that beloved tiki bar, but he's reimagining the space as his own with a (likely) playful menu to boot. Expect some of the favorite dishes that built the Chisme name at Low Bar, but with the added bonus of a smash burger, Crunchwrap Tuesdays, and a tight list of cocktails to wash it all down. 347 14th Street, Oakland. . See More: San Francisco Restaurant Openings
