Pakistan's Sirbaz scales 14 world's highest peaks without oxygen
In a moment of great pride for Pakistan, renowned mountaineer Sirbaz Khan became the first person from Pakistan to summit all 14 of the world's highest peaks without supplemental oxygen, completing the milestone by reaching the top of Kangchenjunga.
This remarkable feat was accomplished in Nepal, according to Karrar Haidri, Secretary of the Alpine Club of Pakistan. The final milestone came on Sunday when Sirbaz reached the summit of Kangchenjunga (8,586 metres) at 11:50am local time. A native of Hunza Valley, Sirbaz began his journey in 2017 with the ascent of Nanga Parbat.
'When I started this journey after summiting Nanga Parbat, my goal was clear: all 14×8000m peaks without supplemental oxygen,' he had said earlier during his Annapurna climb.
Globally, fewer than 25 climbers have achieved this feat without oxygen, placing Sirbaz in one of the most elite circles in mountaineering history.
Kanchenjunga, the third-highest mountain in the world, was scaled by Sirbaz in full alpine style-a method marked by complete independence and minimal support, without fixed camps or external oxygen.
Haidri emphasised that Sirbaz Khan's incredible journey is a decade-long tale of passion, sacrifice, and endurance, adding that he climbed all the eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen and without using pre-established camps. This achievement not only places Sirbaz Khan among the elite ranks of the world's greatest climbers but also illuminates Pakistan's name on the global mountaineering stage.
The Alpine Club of Pakistan has officially declared Sirbaz Khan a national hero, with Haidri noting that this son of Gilgit-Baltistan has etched his place among the finest climbers in mountaineering history. 'Sirbaz Khan's success,' said Haidri, 'is a glowing torch of inspiration for the new generation.'
Sirbaz has consistently broken ground for Pakistani climbers. He became the first Pakistani to scale Lhotse in 2019, followed by Annapurna and Dhaulagiri in 2021, and Makalu in 2022—all without bottled oxygen. In 2023, he summited Cho Oyu, and in October 2024, he completed Shishapangma—his 14th and final peak.
He also led all-Pakistani expeditions to Gasherbrum I and II, helping elevate Pakistan's profile in high-altitude mountaineering.
By re-climbing the two previously oxygen-assisted peaks, Sirbaz Khan has not only met his personal goal but also set a new national benchmark in mountaineering excellence.
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