A day of reflection in city of enlightenment
UNESCO-listed Dosanseowon, village of art stand out in Andong
ANDONG, North Gyeongsang Province — Andong was a city of scholars.
The southeastern city was home to those studying to further Neo-Confucianism, a school of Chinese thought that had undergirded Korea during its Joseon era from 1392-1910.
Dosanseowon, a private Confucian school in the city, testifies to how committed Joseon was to see the philosophy permeate everyday life. The school was established as a tribute to Yi Hwang, a prominent Confucian thinker whose contribution to expanding the thought led Joseon to launch the institution in 1576, six years after his death.
The academy complex, which grew out of a small hall Yi built in 1561 to teach Confucianism, comprises separate halls for reading, dining and sleeping. A shrine was added later by his students to pay respects to Yi.
'The entire ground is secluded and serene,' said Kim Myeong-ja, a 66-year-old Seoul resident who stopped by the Confucian academy on her tour of the two Gyeongsang provinces. Trees that surround the premise, punctuated by ponds and flowers, make for a natural setting where thinkers could do what they did best, Kim observed.
Pyo Hyun-soo, born and raised in Andong, said he frequents the complex because 'each trip conjures up old memories.'
'I had a lot of school field trips that included stops here,' said Pyo, a retailer in his 40s who said he planned to take his 8-year-old with him on the next visit once the child becomes 'ready to soak in' the view and ambience.
'This is the perk of living close to a UNESCO site, isn't it?' Pyo said of the world body's 2019 decision to name Dosanseowon a World Heritage Site, a designation given to a group of eight Confucian academies around the country.
Yekki Village
A 10-minute drive away from Dosanseowon is Yekki Village, settled by people whose homes were flooded when the nearby Andong Dam began operations in 1976.
Yekki, literally meaning 'artistic talent,' is one of many travel destinations in the Gyeongsang provinces seeing an increasing number of visitors, thanks to cultural spaces dotting the village including galleries, workshops, book cafes and walkways with a view.
One of the must-see spots is Seonseongsusang-gil, a 1.2-kilometer floating bridge over Lake Andong that connects to Andong Hoban Nature Forest, a bucolic retreat in verdant woodlands.
The bridge is submersible depending on water levels and swings from side to side. That's some unexpected thrill, said Min Hyun-jung, 31, who traveled from Incheon alone for a 'contemplative stroll down the deck' while taking in panoramic views of the lake.
'Other than the fact the bridge is actually a bit narrower than what I saw on Instagram, it's worth a trip. The sweeping views have done it for me,' Min said of her satisfaction with the trip that took almost three hours by car, while taking selfies.
Confucian museum
For others like Song Soo-jin, a native Andong with two elementary students, a village tour is only complete with a stop at the Korean Studies Institute, a think tank that runs the Confucian Culture Museum, less than a 10-minute walk away from the village.
'It's not just about the philosophy,' Song said of the museum's latest exhibition 'Eohwadongdong.' Running through July, the special exhibition explores how children are viewed and understood with artifacts spanning from 18th century Joseon to today.
Books and documents on display are mostly written in Chinese characters, which means children visiting can barely decipher what is shown. But that's all the more reason kids have to see such exhibitions, under parental guidance, according to Song.
'Kids have to burn off energy to get the movement their bodies physically and desperately need,' Song said.
'After that, they need to do the same for their mental faculties. What's better than to keep them asking questions?'
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