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This Stunning Village Is the ‘Sleeping Beauty' of the Swiss Alps—and You Can Only Reach It by Train

This Stunning Village Is the ‘Sleeping Beauty' of the Swiss Alps—and You Can Only Reach It by Train

Travel + Leisure6 hours ago

Stay at the Grand Hotel Belvedere or the renovated Braunbär Hotel & Spa, two exciting additions to Wengen's hospitality scene.
Venture to the 'Top of Europe,' otherwise known as the Jungfraujoch; it's one of the highest railway stations in the world (and the highest in all of Europe).
Indulge in a traditional Swiss fondue at the aptly named La Fondue restaurant.
Visit in either the spring or fall if you want to avoid the crowds that descend upon the tiny village during its two peak seasons: summer and winter.
Forgo skis for a velogemel, a wooden ski bike with roots in neighboring Grindelwald.
The 'storybook' descriptor is frequently tossed into conversations around various mountain villages in Switzerland, yet the repetitive nature of the word doesn't make it any less accurate. The traditional Swiss chalet-style buildings—defined by their gabled roofs, wide eaves, and decorative wood banding—are photogenic in every season, and the snow-capped peaks create a dramatic view nearly everywhere you look.
After a day trip to the Jungfrau region last fall, where I came face to face with this fairy-tale-like scenery, I immediately began to plot out an extended trip over the winter. My research resulted in a long list of destinations I wanted to explore, but the 1,300-person village of Wengen quickly became my top priority.
Completely car-free, Wengen can only reached by train, hike, or bike. It also hosts the annual International Lauberhorn Race, where tens of thousands of viewers watch athletes attempt the nearly three-mile course, the world's longest World Cup downhill run. Wengen's location in the greater Lauterbrunnen Valley also caught my attention; it's a popular base for travelers venturing into other villages in the area and those taking day trips to the Jungfraujoch, the highest train station in Europe.
Still, Wengen isn't quite a household name to American travelers. It doesn't have the same recognition as St. Moritz, Gstaad, or Zermatt—but that might be about to change. In the past year, Wengen welcomed its first five-star hotel, Grand Hotel Belvedere, and it's well on its way to becoming the next big tourist destination in the Bernese Alps. During my visit in early March, I heard it described as the 'sleeping beauty' of the Swiss Alps, a moniker the hotel's area general manager, Lorenz Maurer, also used in an interview with the Financial Times.
'Wengen is like stepping into a postcard—car-free streets, flower-draped chalets, and the towering presence of the Jungfrau above it all,' Maurer tells Travel + Leisure . 'It's peaceful, timeless, and somehow feels both untouched and welcoming.' While he says many travelers see Wengen as a quick stop, he advises against it. 'It's a place to slow down, breathe in, and stay a while. And yes, it's small, but that's exactly the point.' Guest room in Grand Hotel Belvedere.
Since its partial opening in December 2024, Grand Hotel Belvedere, owned by the French Beaumier group, has been marketed as Wengen's only five-star hotel. But this spring marks its official grand opening and the completion of its large-scale renovation. Made up of two historic buildings, the property offers the perfect mix of Swiss charm and modern design; there's mid-century-inspired furnishings, alpine maps, and ski memorabilia throughout the guest rooms and common areas. Select accommodations look out onto the Alps, and the new wellness facilities, inspired by the hot springs in Japan, include a sauna, a hamman, an ice bath, a heated indoor-outdoor pool, and views of the Jungfrau.
Following a recent renovation, Braunbär Hotel & Spa welcomed back guests earlier this year. This new era brings a fresh look to the property's 80 rooms, pool area, bistro-style restaurant, and spa (complete with a hamman and sauna). There's even a cozy 'barbecue hut,' where you can gather around the fire for some fondue or raclette.
Maurer describes Hotel Alpenrose as a family-run hotel that's 'full of personality.' Built in 1881, it's also the oldest hotel in Wengen. He calls out its 'cozy rooms' and the property's 'perfect location for early morning hikes.' Those aforementioned guest rooms are in the classic alpine style (read: lots of light-colored wood), but they've been renovated to feel modern and fresh. A skier in Wengen, Switzerland.
After arriving in Wengen, the first thing on my to-do list was snapping a photo from the Wengen Viewpoint, where you can get an unobstructed view of the Lauterbrunnen Valley. I then proceeded to tour Wengen, popping in and out of stores and admiring the sheer walkability of the destination. 'Wengen isn't about flashy shopping, but that's part of its charm,' explains Maurer. 'There's a small local shop called Central Sport that carries quality outdoor gear, and Alpia Sport has some beautifully crafted souvenirs and regional specialties. Also, check out the little Coop grocery store—it has surprisingly good local products and mountain cheese.'
Hikers come from near and far to take advantage of the incredible hiking around Wengen—and Maurer recommends starting with the Panorama Trail. 'It's relatively easy and rewards you with sweeping alpine views that feel straight out of a fantasy novel,' he says. The route, under three miles, starts from Männlichen and takes you to Kleine Scheidegg.
It might be 'touristy,' according to Maurer, but he also calls the Jungfraujoch an 'iconic experience' that's 'stunning all the way up.' To reach Europe's highest-altitude railway station, which sits at more than 11,000 feet above sea level, you'll take the Wengernalpbahn to Kleine Scheidegg, then switch to the historic Jungfrau Railway to reach the Jungfraujoch. Depending on the weather—it was a complete whiteout when I went—you'll be able to see jaw-dropping views of the Aletsch Glacier (the largest glacier in the Alps) and the Jungfrau, Eiger, and Mönch peaks. There's also an Ice Palace, a series of tunnels and caves is carved into glacier ice.
Given Wengen's proximity to the slopes, it should come as no surprise athletes of all skill levels make their way to the village during the winter. Start your day by taking the train from Wengen to Kleine Scheidegg—where you can also rent a sledge or velogemel (a wooden snow bike that was invented in nearby Grindelwald)—or board the Wengen-Männlichen aerial cableway. The well-groomed pistes are wide and the scenery is unmatched. If you're lucky, you'll get a bluebird day with views of the surrounding peaks. View of Wengen from a restaurant window.
Whether you're looking for your first fondue or you can't get enough of the comforting dish, Maurer recommends dining at La Fondue, which he deems the 'best fondue restaurant in the village.' Served with baby potatoes, bread, and mixed pickles, a fondue is the perfect way to warm up after a day on the slopes or hiking through the valley. If you're not a fan of melted cheese, you also can't go wrong with the homemade rösti .
Fondue is also on the menu at Ristorante Da Sina, but the family-fun Swiss and Italian establishment mainly serves up an impressive selection of pastas and pizzas. 'The pizza is a surprise hit, and the vibe is relaxed,' says Maurer.
Even if you're not a guest of Alpenkräuter Hotel Bären, you'll still want to set aside one night during your trip to enjoy dinner at the Alpenkräuter (or 'Alpine Herbs') restaurant. As the name implies, the restaurant leans into seasonal and local ingredients and believes in the power of herbs and other wild plants in the area. The menu leans heavily into salads, fish dishes, and a variety of vegetable-forward entrees.
Wengen has appeal all year-round, but it's especially popular in the summer and winter. 'Peak summer and ski season are vibrant, but can be a bit packed,' says Maurer. If you prefer peace and quiet, Maurer suggests visiting during the shoulder seasons: 'Late spring and early autumn are my personal favorites—fewer crowds, crisp mountain air, and a gentler kind of beauty.' I'd also recommend coming toward the end of winter; I found early March to be the perfect time for skiing (there was only a bit of slush), and the slopes in the Männlichen area were relatively uncrowded. The Jungfrau train going through a village.
You can't drive to Wengen, so you'll need to rely on the famously efficient Swiss transportation system to get you to the village (the SBB Mobile app couldn't be easier to use). If you're traveling from Interlaken, you'll take the train to Lauterbrunnen and transfer to the Wengernalp Railway, the world's longest continuous cog railroad. If you're driving, you can park in Lauterbrunnen. The final leg of the journey, which overlooks the stunning Lauterbrunnen Valley and the towering Jungfrau peak, only takes about 12 minutes. A person walking through Wengen, Switzerland.
Privately owned cars aren't allowed in Wengen, so you'll need to get around on foot or by bicycle. The village is tiny, though, and it doesn't take long to explore it in its entirety. That said, some hotels, like Grand Hotel Belvedere, have electric vehicles that can assist with getting you to and from the transportation or around Wengen as needed.

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How I used 7,000 Amex points to fly home from London this summer
How I used 7,000 Amex points to fly home from London this summer

CNN

time36 minutes ago

  • CNN

How I used 7,000 Amex points to fly home from London this summer

CNN Underscored reviews financial products based on their overall value. We may receive a commission through our affiliate partners if you apply and are approved for a product, but our reporting is always independent and objective. This may impact how links appear on this site. This site does not include all financial companies or all available financial offers. Terms apply to American Express benefits and offers. Enrollment may be required for select American Express benefits and offers. Visit to learn more. Flying to Europe in the peak summer travel season can cost a fortune. Cash fares can skyrocket, and award availability is often limited. But with the right transfer bonus and a bit of flexibility, you can unlock serious value from your travel rewards. This summer, I flew one-way from London Heathrow (LHR) to San Francisco (SFO) for just 7,000 American Express Membership Rewards points, a fraction of what most travelers would expect to pay. The key? 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Virgin Atlantic Flying Club is one of the most underappreciated airline loyalty programs, especially for transatlantic flights in economy class. While major US carriers may charge 30,000 to 40,000 miles (or more) for a one-way flight between Europe and the US, Virgin Atlantic regularly prices economy award tickets from 6,000 points. I found availability from London to San Francisco for just 9,000 points plus £220 (around $300) in June, and it ended up being one of the best redemptions I've made all year. Credit card issuers like American Express Membership Rewards, Capital One Miles, Chase Ultimate Rewards and Citi ThankYou American Express often run limited-time transfer bonuses to their travel partners. In October 2024, there was a 30% bonus from Amex to Virgin Atlantic Flying Club. That meant every 1,000 Amex Membership Rewards points transferred would become 1,300 Flying Club points. 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‘Everyone is rich, nobody cares': My weekend with Monaco's jet set
‘Everyone is rich, nobody cares': My weekend with Monaco's jet set

Yahoo

time2 hours ago

  • Yahoo

‘Everyone is rich, nobody cares': My weekend with Monaco's jet set

There is Monaco, and then there is Monaco. Many of us have visited the former, sitting at wrought-iron tables on café terraces, strolling along the promenade, visiting the parts of the magnificent palace which are open to the public. But while we are visiting the MAMAC museum and taking photos on Casino Square, a wholly separate Monaco is going on behind closed doors – on private rooftops, on balconies carefully shrouded from prying eyes by delicately manicured foliage, in clubs identifiable only by discreet plaques, and tucked away in the deepest recesses of Monte Carlo's hotels and casinos. It is a world in which most of us are unlikely ever to find ourselves. Yes, it is a club into which you can buy (or marry) your way, as many have. But money will only take you so far: its eccentric upper reaches are reserved for a select few – a pack with if not necessarily blue, then at least purple, blood. And like the Four Hundred of erstwhile New York, this club is, for the most part, a closed shop. On previous visits to Monaco, I had once or twice glimpsed this veiled world: the neatly preserved, white-haired women in tasteful tailored garb, watching haughtily from the top deck of the yacht club; aristocratically jawed gentlemen and shipping magnates smoking cigars on the balcony at the very back of the Casino de Monte Carlo. I was fascinated by it, longing for a closer look – and reasoned there could be few better opportunities than during the Monaco Grand Prix, 'the jewel in Formula 1's crown' and – alongside the likes of the Yacht Show, the Tennis Masters and the lavish Bal de la Rose – a stalwart of the Principality's glittering social season. If I was going to experience Monaco's essence at its most distilled – to rub shoulders with incognito minor royals and 12th generation patricians – this was surely the place to do it. 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A top-end tender zipped us across the port to its bow, weaving between other floating megaliths – on the right, Bernard Arnault's Symphony, with its helipad; on the left, Sir Philip Green's huge, sinuous Lionheart. Behind them, Monte Carlo's bizarrely beautiful patchwork of Belle Époque piles and incongruous high rises climbed towards the steep foothills of Mont Agel, its twisting streets and alleys crammed with people. On board the yacht, champagne flowed, and glamorous people in dark glasses and delicately branded sportswear drifted between the aft deck and a table in the salon laid with chichi snacks. In the lulls between races, some retired to the sundeck, applying a sunscreen which doesn't officially exist yet from glass vials which waited on each table, as a DJ played waves of gently pulsing ambient mood music. 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'Everyone here has seen it before.' He smiled and raised his glass. 'And now, so have you.' I replayed his words in my mind later that night – as I ordered a sad sandwich at a countertop bar in Nice Airport and waited in vain for someone to top up my glass of warm wine. And it dawned on me: earlier that day, I had been the one on a private balcony, carefully shrouded from prying eyes by delicately manicured foliage. I had not just managed a closer look at the world of Monaco's elite – I had, briefly, been living in it. It turns out that, if you know the password, getting through the hidden back door is the easy bit. The hard part – I realised, as a stale baguette arrived in front of me – is leaving it. Gemma Knight-Gilani was a guest of Go Privilege, whose Monaco Grand Prix 2026 packages start at £895 per person per day (Yoshi terrace at Hotel Metropole) and £1,000 per person per day (superyacht viewing), including all food, drinks and VIP passes. 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Tourism For The Soul: Eight European Pilgrimage Routes And Ancient Trails
Tourism For The Soul: Eight European Pilgrimage Routes And Ancient Trails

Forbes

time4 hours ago

  • Forbes

Tourism For The Soul: Eight European Pilgrimage Routes And Ancient Trails

Father and son rest on the rocky sea side during their pilgrimage journey. It is said that pilgrimage is the original form of mindful travel. And in our turbulent times, a walking (biking or running) journey through ancient, historical or religious routes -- particularly those renowned as European pilgrimages -- is a growing trend not only as tests of endurance but as paths to find calm for the spirit, a comforting form of 'tourism for the soul' through gorgeous destinations. Europe is full of venerable trails steeped in history where travelers can experience a meaningful inner adventure -- spending time outdoors, transversing natural beauty, and learning about amazing places. 'In a noisy, angry world, the simple act of walking each day toward a defined goal is an appealing, powerful prospect,' writes The Telegraph. 'A pilgrimage (secular or religious) forces you to ask what's important.' Lonely Planet describes the experience as 'a sacred path to spiritual renewal, a journey from head to heart, a test of endurance or a life-changing road to enlightenment.' Whatever the motivation and 'despite our secularising world, pilgrimage is enjoying a boom not seen since the Middle Ages,' The Guardian reports. Shadow silhouette of pilgrims in a road in Spain 's Camino Primitivo European Pilgrimage Routes Out of Competition Any list of a selection of the best European tours for the soul invariably starts with the Camino de Santiago, a pilgrimage destination so popular worldwide that we can declare it 'out of competition.' In the past few decades, the numbers of people walking to Santiago de Compostela have increased from 74,324 in 2003 to 440,370 in 2023 and to a record 499,239 pilgrims receiving the 'Compostela' certificate in 2024, an 11.9% increase from the previous year, according to Santiago's Pilgrim's Office.. Camino de Santiago -- also known as the Way of Saint James, deeply rooted in Christianity and functioning since the 9th century -- consist of an extensive network of ancient routes created by people walking from their homes across Europe and coming together at the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain, where the remains of the apostle Saint James lie. While many are motivated by religious believes, other secular walkers do it as a 'mindful' journey, a physical achievement or as a practical way to explore European culture, historical sites and history itself. With a well-established infrastructure and extensive marketing efforts of related businesses, pilgrims find hostels, hotels, restaurants and stores along their way and the length of their journey can vary from many weeks to complete long traditional routes or shorter, partial itineraries according to taste. The vast and varied network of the Camino de Santiago has been compared to a river system where small brooks join together to make streams, and those streams come together to make rivers that 'flow' to the cathedral. During the Middle Ages, people walked out of their front doors and started off to Santiago, which was how the network grew. People walking along footpath crossing the dunes on the Portugal route to Santiago de Compostela The most popular journey (and very crowded in summer) is the Camino Francés, stretching 780 kilometers (some 500 miles) from St. Jean-Pied-du-Port near Biarritz in France to Santiago. This route is fed by three other major French paths: the Voie de Tours, the Voie de Vezelay, and the Voie du Puy. It's also joined along the way by the Camino Aragones, (fed by the Voie d'Arles that crosses the Pyrenees at the Somport Pass), the Camí de Sant Jaume from Montserrat near Barcelona, the Ruta de Tunel from Irun, the Camino Primitivo from Bilbao and Oviedo (more below) and by the Camino de Levante from Valencia and Toledo. As explained by UNESCO, which has declared the Camino an Outstanding World Heritage and offers a complete itinerary: 'To reach Spain, the pilgrims had to pass through France. Pilgrimage churches, simple sanctuaries, hospitals, bridges, roadside crosses bear witness to the spiritual and physical aspects of the pilgrimages. Spiritual exercise and manifestation of faith, the pilgrimage has also influenced the secular world in playing a decisive role in the birth and circulation of ideas and art." The other main routes of the Camino de Santiago, followed by almost half of the pilgrims, are the less crowded Camino Portugués, rolling along the coasts of Portugal and Spain – a month-long, 620-kilometer walk from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela, or the 10-to-12 day, 265-kilometer hike from Porto. A lonely pilgrim walks the Camino de Santiago in Spain. The most popular part of this most popular route is the final 100 kilometers, starting in Sarria and ending in Santiago. But, as explained by The Telegraph, 'you don't have to walk to Santiago. You don't have to rough it in hostels. You don't even have to walk (an e-bike pilgrimage, maybe?). There are as many pilgrimages as there are people." Here are other spiritual paths related to the Camino de Santiago but less traveled: Wool Route, Spain The 700-kilometer Ruta de la Lana (Wool Route) links Valencia and Alicante with Burgos. It follows the path of the wool, running from the south of the country and dating back to before the Middle Ages, used by sheep-shearers and wool merchants and to take livestock to markets. Still today, they're taken by shepherds and their often-huge flocks, traveling to milder climates nearer the coasts for winter and to higher mountain pastures in summer. The route includes many iconic Romanesque churches and beautiful landscapes, including the Rio Dulce natural park, and the canyon of Caracena. Two larger towns, Cuenca and Sigüenza, are worth a rest day, and neither is on the overseas tourists' map. Camino Primitivo, Spain The Camino Primitivo is said to be the original and oldest way to Santiago, tracing the route taken by King Alfonso II in the 9th century. Today, fewer than 5% of pilgrims to Santiago choose the Camino Primitivo. This route is demanding, but its scenery and history make it a unique experience with steep ascents and descents and exceptional mountain views. It begins in Oviedo, taking ancient paths through lush peaks, valleys, and centuries old Spanish villages. Abbey Island, the idyllic patch of land in Derrynane Historic Park in County Kerry, Ireland Kerry Camino, Ireland On their long way to Santiago in the Middle Ages, Irish pilgrims would head to St. James Church in Dingle and from there sail to northern Spain to continue their walk. Modeled on the Camino de Santiago and linked to sixth-century St Brendan, the Kerry route starts in Tralee and winds down Ireland's Dingle Peninsula, which has some of the most dramatic scenery and coastlines. On the way, hikers pass ancient oratories, beaches, lively pubs, wave-bashed shores and some places to get pilgrim passports stamped. Via Jacobi (Jakobsweg), Switzerland Starting in Lake Constance and going to Lake Geneva, this 450-kilometer stretch of the Camino de Santiago has been described as one of the most majestic. The Via Jacobi slides along the foot of the Alpine chain, through historic churches, monasteries and chapels, – including the UNESCO-listed St Gallen -- hostels and lake-hugging Interlaken and Lausanne. Walkers are flanked by the Central Swiss Alps, the Bernese Oberland, the Freiburger Alps and Jorat's endless forests and can choose between various paths or follow them in succession. Via Francigena, Emblematic European Pilgrimage Monteroni d'Arbia's fields along the route of the via Francigena in Siena, Tuscany Another emblematic pilgrim route, also spread around different European countries, traces that described by Sigeric, then-Archbishop of Canterbury, on his return from Rome in AD 990. It focuses on the meanderings of St. Francis of Assisi, born in his namesake town of Assisi in Umbria in 1181, founder of the Franciscan order, and one of the most venerated Italian saints who lived a life of utmost poverty and penance, loved nature, saved animals and was said to perform miracles. Then there's the very challenging 1,200-kilometer pilgrimage from the UNESCO-listed Gothic Canterbury Cathedral (where Thomas Becket was killed in 1170) to Santa Maria di Leuca in Puglia, Italy, with crossings through France and Switzerland via breathtaking vineyards, flowing rivers, forests, olive tree-blanketed hills and the snow-covered Alps. Medieval towns, gothic abbeys and castles grace that route. The most popular sections of the Francigena are the Italian stretches that include gorgeous towns including Monteriggioni, San Gimignano and Siena. Via Francigena signpost in front of a sunflower field in central Tuscany Pilgrim's Way An alternative ancient route also related to Thomas Becket and followed by many medieval pilgrims, the Pilgrim's Way connects Winchester's massive cathedral to the shrine of the martyred archbishop in Canterbury via the River Itchen, the Surrey Hills and the Kent Downs, first following St Swithun's Way and then the North Downs Way with woods, water meadows and vineyards, priories, burial chambers and medieval inns along the way. St Olav's Way, Norway and Sweden St. Olavsleden (St. Olav's way) is one of the world's northernmost pilgrim paths, extending for 564 kilometers from the Baltic Sea in the east to the Atlantic Ocean in the west, through Sweden and Norway and eleven municipalities. It follows the steps of Olav Haraldsson, the Viking king of Norway from 1015 to 1028, who brought Christianity to the country, and runs from Sundsvall in Sweden to Nidaros Cathedral, his burial place in fjord-side Trondheim, Norway. Pilgrims follow various Ways to reach his tomb. From verdant forests to majestic fjords, each step is an ode to nature and serenity. St Olav's Waterway in Finland: Porvoo, a popular destination with it's old wooden houses and shops St Olav's Waterway, Finland This strand of St Olav's Waterway takes walkers island hopping from medieval Turku and its cathedral on the Finnish mainland through the Finnish archipelago, one of the most beautiful in the world, via Åland – the islands of peace. It's a pilgrimage-cum-ferry hop across some of the Finnish Archipelago's 20,000 isles, passing charming harbours and churches. From there, committed pilgrims continue into Sweden. Once there, travelers can choose from several alternative routes to reach the final destination of Trondheim in Norway. Some start a pilgrimage route for spiritual reasons; others find spiritual fulfilment along the way. Most people set out on an European pilgrimage for spiritual reasons, others find spiritual fulfilment along the way. Undeniably, reaching the final goal is as rewarding as any of the beautiful journeys that lead to them. MORE FROM FORBES

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