You'll find a carving trolley here that's almost as famous as their regal regulars
If you're seeking a historical feast, you've come to the right place. One of London's most elderly restaurants, Wiltons has been in the game since 1742. Beginning life as simple shellfish mongers, Wiltons became a proper restaurant in 1841, and, after numerous address changes, moved into their current premises in 1984. Still, 40+ years in the same room is pretty good going for a city that turns restaurants over like pancakes on Shrove Tuesday.
Foodie lore runs deep at this London institution; they supplied oysters to Queen Victoria (there's a signed picture of Her Maj in the ladies loo), and you'll find a carving trolley here that's almost as famous as their regal regulars. The dining room itself is pitched somewhere between Victorian grandeur and Jilly Cooper camp, with giant oil paintings of be-suited board members hanging next to jolly wooden booths, perfect for politicians who might need to plot the downfall of a colleague over an ice-cold Chablis. Red velvet swags hang heavy with portent over indoor windows which seem to lead nowhere, and the female waiting staff wear matronly tea dresses.
It wouldn't be a surprise if the food at Wiltons was as old school as the decor, but there's some seriously impressive cooking happening here. An implacably good, twice baked stilton soufflé is wildly cheesy, served in a sterling silver dish, perfectly crisp on the outside and cashmere-soft on the inside, while lobster bisque is funky and dank in the best possible way.
There are also bountiful platters of oysters, various plates of smoked fish, dressed crab and caviar to start, but the menu of mains is fairly short. Grilled halibut is fresh and simple, while lobster thermidor – served off the shell – is richer than the monied clientele.
Time Out tip
Puddings here are famously good and delightfully traditional. The trifle is a sturdy, solid thing of creamy wonder.
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