Reversible jewellery: designs that dazzle front and back
'The back should look as good as the front.' That's the first lesson instilled in goldsmiths at the world's most prestigious jewellery houses. It's a natural extension then to create pieces that are entirely reversible — a welcome feat at a time when gold prices are eye-wateringly high.
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Rush Hour necklace in yellow and white gold and diamond, POA, jessicamccormack.com
Jessica McCormack's new Rush Hour collection features a sculptural wavy torque with a diamond nestled in one of its curves. The piece can be worn with the yellow-gold side facing out or flipped to reveal the white gold, so you can match it to your outfit. Chanel's Sport collection brings the same versatility to rings that pivot from a statement round-cut diamond to a more discreet enamel design on the back. Dior too embraces the concept with the latest additions to its Rose des Vents line: bracelets and necklaces whose spinning charms reveal a diamond-centred compass rose or a gently domed gemstone in hues including delicate pink opal, vivid malachite and sky-blue turquoise.
Rose des Vents earring, necklace and ring in yellow gold, pink gold, white gold, platinum, diamonds, malachite, lapis lazuli, tiger's eye, pink opal, turquoise, mother-of-pearl, onyx and red ceramic lacquer, all POA, dior.com
Reversibility also takes centre stage at Pomellato in the new Pom Pom Dot collection, inspired by a vintage piece. 'The discovery of a button motif in a necklace from 1974 in our archives was the starting point,' says Pomellato's creative director, Vincenzo Castaldo. 'However, we added playfulness by creating a double-sided button. Pom Pom Dot allows the wearer to flip the button to the plain gold or gem-set side,' he adds. Pom Pom Dot comprises earrings, rings and bracelets with button-shaped pendants in malachite, turquoise, mother-of-pearl and diamonds. With a satisfying click, each piece swivels to reveal a different face in rose gold.
Gouette Question Mark necklace in white gold, green tourmaline, rock crystal and diamonds, POA, boucheron.com
In India, the belief that the back of a jewel should be as beautiful as the front is rooted in a philosophy that considers beauty and craftsmanship as pathways to spiritual completeness. This applies particularly to bridal jewellery, where the hidden decoration on the reverse is seen as a metaphor for the bride's inner beauty. Honouring this tradition, Sabyasachi's opulent necklaces — no matter how lavishly set with diamonds on the front — are enamelled on the back with motifs of lotuses, peacocks and parrots. The technique, known as meenakari, was introduced during the Mogul era and originally helped protect the metal from corrosion.
Cartier Le Voyage Recommencé High Jewellery necklace in white gold, diamonds, rock crystal and coloured lacquer, POA, cartier.com
Cartier's historic ties to India, which have inspired some of the maison's most innovative creations — including its flamboyant Tutti Frutti style — also informed a recent high jewellery necklace with two strikingly different sides. The front embodies art deco minimalism, with a cascade of rock-crystal drops interspersed with diamonds that shimmer in luminous white. But turn the piece over and it reveals a hidden explosion of colour as saturated magenta and deep blue enamel form an abstract pattern that's totally concealed when viewed from the front.
Boucheron has also added a surprise to the back of its iconic Point d'Interrogation, or Question Mark, necklace. First unveiled at the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris, this sinuous, clasp-free jewel, designed to be swung around the neck with a single hand, earned Frédéric Boucheron the prestigious Grand Prix. More recently the house reimagined the design with three distinctive variations, one with rubellites, another with green tourmalines and a third with deep blue tanzanites. On the reverse, each sparkles with diamonds on rock crystal. Never has the concept of 'buy one, get one free' resulted in something so stylish.
Main picture: Pom Pom Dot ring in rose gold, malachite, diamonds and mother-of-pearl, £3,950, pomellato.com
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