Forgotten: Searching for Palestine's Hidden Places and Lost Memorials
Ancient buildings are the keepers of secrets: the ghosts and stories of the people who have gone before rest within their walls.
Despite attempts to conceal the past, remnants stubbornly remain, as anyone who has renovated can attest - faded posters, peeling wallpaper, chipped paint - such immutable objects can bear witness to a forgotten time.
In this meditative travelogue, Raja Shehadeh and his wife Penny Johnson, both in their eighth decade, contemplate the hidden history and geography of historic Palestine, now Israel and the Occupied Palestinian Territories of the West Bank, East Jerusalem and Gaza.
This is a place where even 'archaeology is politicised'.
The couple's quest is to reveal the lost, neglected and intentionally erased stories that criss-cross and sustain the land.
New MEE newsletter: Jerusalem Dispatch
Sign up to get the latest insights and analysis on Israel-Palestine, alongside Turkey Unpacked and other MEE newsletters
In languid prose their journey illustrates how a rich, cultural heritage has been lost, and how these forgotten monuments and memorials reveal much about a common past and a possible future.
The book, the seed of which germinated from a lockdown walk on a deserted road near the wall separating the occupied West Bank from Israel, and a chance discovery of a forgotten memorial stone for three Egyptian soldiers who perished in the 1967 war, is divided into five distinct sections that illustrate its historical breadth.
The authors cover Palestine's past and its troubled present; Ottoman times; traces of the Nakba; intimations of mortality (where they visit the graves of friends, including the poet Mahmoud Darwish); and Ramallah ruins and the future of our pasts.
Under our anointed tour guides, time slows and information is imbibed. Mindful to the burden of detail, the couple gently unpeel layers to reveal the fascinating narratives that underpin the places they visit.
'Bearing the weight of many pasts'
This is not without hindrance; the authors are forced to negotiate checkpoints, road barriers and detours to reach these destinations, whose very geography has been splintered on purpose.
They travel to Nablus, a city that 'bears the weight of many pasts', from Ramallah along the congested Highway 60.
Their memories of the old road with its 'near pristine hills and agricultural landscapes' become an ever distant echo, as Israeli bulldozers gouge into the hills near the town of Hawara on the approach to Nablus, as they construct a four-lane bypass connecting Israeli settlements in the west to those of the east.
In Nablus, they come across a triptych, strangely evocative of the lustrous 'religious three-panelled paintings that graced altars in Byzantine or Renaissance churches', except this memorial is rendered on stark white stone brick with a black fence protecting it.
Namesake: Reflections on Nusaiba, a warrior woman of early Islam Read More »
On the wall are the faded posters of young men organised as a trinity, martyrs who perished during the first and second Palestinian intifadas, condemned to be young forever.
The couple relate the history of the Old City, how it was the eye of the storm during the Second Intifada in April 2002, and how both Palestinian civilians and fighters perished during a 10-day curfew, with homes and historic buildings, including an Ottoman era palace, sustaining collateral damage.
Sometimes there are no signs of what has gone before. Shehadeh and Johnson travel to Kfar Kanna, a town near Nazareth, which according to Christians is famed as the place where Jesus turned water into wine, in search of a memorial to the Nakba.
In an unremarkable circular plaza stocked with plastic chairs, they find a sole monument - a rectangular pillar topped with an urn filled with drooping plants.
Squint at the wall behind it and the dead are listed through the decades, from the 1930s to the 2000s.
The monument was unveiled in September 2000, a few days before the Second Intifada. As the traffic roars around them, the couple feel the weight of silence.
Reclaiming narratives
Voids in memory are often filled by art. In the museum of Ein Harod, an Israeli kibbutz, a major retrospective profiles Palestinian artist Asim Abu Shakra's vivid paintings of potted cacti.
The artist, who tragically died of cancer in 1990 at the age of 28, repeatedly painted these hardy plants in bright colours in order to reclaim the narrative surrounding them.
For Israelis, the cactus has been adopted as a national symbol, but the plant is also replete with meaning for Palestinians - its thorns offering protection; its fruit sustenance.
(Profile Books)
The artist was drawn to it because of its 'amazing ability to flower out of death'. As our authors note, his work offered 'beauty in response to the Nakba and its consequences'.
Erasure is a constant theme. The couple visit Charles Clore Park, a seaside resort built on the ruins of Manshiya, a coastal city that Palestinians once named 'the bride of the sea'.
The story behind the park's creation - it was named after the UK billionaire that funded its construction - and the obliteration of a city with 12,000 inhabitants, has sobering parallels with Trump's ideas of turning Gaza into the 'Riviera of the Middle East'.
The authors observe that this is an ongoing historical tragedy; they are unable to access the Gaza Strip and note that the eradication and erasure of its cultural heritage will ultimately lead to the dispossession and displacement of its people, who will no longer be able to prove their connection to the land.
Towards the end of the book, Johnson sees a ruby red anemone blossoming amongst the rubble and ruins that dot the Ramallah hills.
There is always hope. The past can never be completely erased, clues remain for those willing to look closely.
This precious jewel of a book is a call to preserve the past in order to secure the future. Its hauntingly evocative prose stays with you long after its final pages have been turned.
Forgotten: Searching for Palestine's Hidden Places and Lost Memorials (2025) by Raja Shehadeh and Penny Johnson in published by Profile Books
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Al Etihad
4 hours ago
- Al Etihad
UAE airlines suspend multiple regional flights
22 June 2025 15:48 SAMIHAH ZAMAN (ABU DHABI)The UAE's major airlines have suspended flights to a number of regional cities in light of the ongoing Iran-Israel conflict, and urged passengers to stay informed regarding their flight status. Etihad Airways "Due to the ongoing airspace closures and the regional situation, Etihad Airways has suspended all flights between Abu Dhabi and Tel Aviv until and including July 15," the airline said in a airline added that guests transiting through Abu Dhabi to connect to cancelled flights will not be accepted for travel from their point of origin, and that those impacted will be assisted with alternative travel arrangements."This remains a highly dynamic situation, and further changes or disruption, including sudden airspace closures or operational impact, may occur at short notice. Etihad continues to monitor developments closely in coordination with the relevant authorities and is taking all necessary precautions," Etihad urged travellers to check their latest flight status through the airline's website, mobile app or call centre. flydubaiflydubai has also temporarily suspended flights to and from Iran, Iraq, Israel, Syria, and St. Petersburg and their respective airports until June 30 "due to the current situation and the closure of certain airspace corridors". "Passengers connecting through Dubai with final destinations in any of the above countries or airports will not be accepted for travel at their point of origin until further notice," the airline said in a also urged passengers departing from or arriving at Dubai International Airport (DXB) to check their flight status. EmiratesEmirates Airlines announced Saturday that flights to Iran and Iraq remain temporarily suspended until Monday, June 30. Flight suspensions have been in place across the region ever since Israel launched airstrikes on Iran on June 13, with Tehran reacting via missiles and rocket attacks on Israel. The US struck three key nuclear sites early on Sunday in an escalation strongly condemned by Iran. Source: Aletihad - Abu Dhabi
The National
5 hours ago
- The National
British Airways halts flights to Dubai and Doha
British Airways has paused flights to Dubai and Doha in light of escalating conflict in the region. It is one of several airlines worldwide that have suspended flights to the Middle East. The UK carrier said in a statement to The National:"All flights to Dubai and Doha scheduled to depart LHR [London Heathrow Airport] on June 22 and their subsequent return flights have been cancelled. Our teams continue to keep the situation under review." Hostilities continue in the region, with the US bombing of Iranian nuclear facilities in the early hours of June 22 and Israel's ongoing strikes on Gaza, as well as Israel and Iran trading attacks. "As a result of recent events, we have adjusted our flight schedule to ensure the safety of our customers and crew," the BA statement read. For passengers already booked on to affected flights, BA said it was working to reach all those affected. "We are contacting our customers to advise them of their options while we work through this developing situation." Passengers, it continued, will be offered a "flexible booking policy" regarding changing their dates of travel. "Those due to travel between now and June 24 can rebook on to a later flight up to and including July 6, free of charge, by contacting us by phone." On Sunday morning, a BA flight carrying 206 passengers from Chennai to London changed course less than an hour into its journey, after the US strikes on Iran. Elsewhere, Flightradar24 reported a second BA flight, which took off on Saturday evening, was rerouted to Zurich, Switzerland, while over Saudi Arabia. The airline has also halted all flights to Bahrain until the end of this month. It said the move to suspend the flights was made to 'ensure the safety of customers and crew' amid a rapidly changing and volatile scenario." Air Canada and United Airlines have also cancelled flights to Dubai, while American Airlines has paused flights to Doha.
Arabian Post
a day ago
- Arabian Post
Gulf Airspace Shockwaves Prompt More Re-routings
Arabian Post Staff -Dubai Major U.S. and European carriers have halted flights to key Gulf destinations amid escalating hostilities between Israel and Iran, while international regulators warn of heightened risk as far-flung air routes face rerouting challenges. American Airlines has paused its Philadelphia–Doha service until at least 22 June, citing growing security concerns, with a spokesperson affirming the decision would be reviewed 'as needed'. United Airlines has similarly suspended Newark–Dubai flights, stating the route would resume once safety conditions permit. ADVERTISEMENT European airlines, including Air France‑KLM, Lufthansa and Wizz Air, are enduring significant disruptions due to enforced airspace closures over Israel, Iraq and Jordan. These closures funnel more than 150 carriers through narrow corridors over Turkey, Saudi Arabia and Egypt, inflating flight durations and fuel consumption amid existing pressures from prior restrictions over Russian airspace. The European Union Aviation Safety Agency and the U.S. Federal Aviation Administration have flagged elevated risks across the broader region. Coverage spans Iran, Israel, Iraq, Syria and adjacent zones, citing threats from advanced air‑defence systems, missile misidentification and accidental interceptions. Global traffic analysis reveals more than 3,000 flight cancellations daily in the Middle East since mid‑June. Airlines are rerouting flights to Europe and Asia via longer paths over Central Asia and the Mediterranean, adding hours to journeys and intensifying operational strain on air traffic control. Air India, coping with the fallout of a Boeing 787‑8 crash in India on 12 June which killed 241 passengers, has cut its international schedule by 15 per cent. The airline cited Middle East airspace closures among the factors prompting cancellation of 83 flights, with the reduced timetable expected until mid‑July. The conflict's origins trace back to Israeli airstrikes on Iranian nuclear facilities, including the Arak heavy water reactor, with Iranian missile attacks wounding more than 240 people in southern Israel and critical infrastructure hit in Tel Aviv. Iran followed with a barrage of over 400 ballistic missiles and drones, affecting hospitals and civilian areas. Western intelligence indicates U.S. President Donald Trump is weighing participation in a military campaign against Iran, with a decision expected within two weeks. The prospect of U.S. involvement has intensified caution among airlines and aviation regulators worldwide. On the financial front, Brent crude has surged approximately 8 per cent to around $70.8 a barrel, intensifying the cost implications of rerouted flights and further pressuring carriers already grappling with fuel expenditures. European airline stocks have reacted sharply, with major flags posting declines as markets factor in ongoing disruptions. Passengers are eligible for full refunds if itineraries include flights through restricted airspace. Those traversing high-risk, open but uncertain zones may face varied refund policies depending on airline terms. Travel demand is also shifting, with travellers opting out of flights through Dubai or Doha to avoid uncertainty—further dampening booking volumes at major Gulf hubs. Industry experts caution that any broadening of the conflict—especially with U.S. military action—could force additional closures, strain remaining corridors and degrade regional air connectivity. Past incidents have shown that misidentification of civilian aircraft and missile overreach are genuine risks. Amid this volatility, airlines are racing to recalibrate operations, adjust crew rotations and manage passenger impacts.
