From sea bass to salmon – eight seafood recipes that'll wow your guests
CAMPARI AND VODKA CURED SALMON
A classic bar-side drink that I am very fond of is the Garibaldi. Made with Campari and orange juice, the bitter notes and fresh, frothy citrus blend perfectly. I've taken inspiration from this colourful duo and found it works beautifully for curing a side of salmon with juniper, pink peppercorns, a hit of vodka and the subtle green, feathery notes of chervil.
SERVES 6
1kg sea salt crystals
400g golden caster sugar
1 tbsp pink peppercorns, crushed
100g chervil, leaves finely chopped
1 tbsp orange zest
150ml Campari
80ml vodka
1 side of salmon, skin on, pin-boned (about 800g)
To serve
rye bread, in thin slices
horseradish sauce
salmon roe
a small handful of dill
lemon slices
1 Combine the salt, sugar, pink peppercorns, chervil, orange zest, Campari and vodka in a large bowl and stir together. Put half of this curing mixture on a large piece of clingfilm in a deep-sided tray. Place the salmon, skin-side down, on the curing mixture, then cover with the remaining curing mixture. Cover the salmon with another layer of clingfilm, then weigh it down using a smaller tray, with tins for weights. Leave in the refrigerator for at least a day – two is even better.
2 When ready, strain away any excess liquid and clean off the cure from the salmon with paper towels. Slice the cured salmon into 1cm pieces, just as you would smoked salmon.
3 Serve on the thin slices of rye bread with the horseradish sauce, salmon roe, dill fronds and lemon slices.
CRUMBED SARDINES WITH A TOMATO AND SHALLOT DRESSING
Sardines and tomatoes are great housemates and I always find myself bringing them together in recipes. Ask your fishmonger to butterfly the sardines for you.
SERVES 4 (as a starter)
200g panko breadcrumbs
zest of 1 lemon
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
50g plain flour
2 eggs, beaten
16 sardines, deboned, trimmed and butterfly-filleted
2 tbsp olive oil
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the tomato dressing
350g tomatoes, deseeded and diced
2 banana shallots, finely chopped
2 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
4 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
To serve
green salad and bread
1 Make the tomato dressing: put the tomatoes, shallots, parsley, olive oil, vinegar and garlic in a bowl. Stir together and season with sea salt and freshly ground pepper. Taste and adjust if necessary.
2 Put the breadcrumbs, lemon zest and parsley in a shallow tray, season with salt and pepper and combine. Put the flour in a tray alongside, and the beaten eggs in a third tray. Pat the sardines dry, coat in the flour, then the egg and press into the breadcrumbs.
3 Heat the olive oil in a large frying pan. Cook the sardines in batches for 5-6 minutes until golden brown on each side. Spoon on the dressing and serve with the salad and bread to mop up the tomatoey juices.
LEMONY ORZO WITH TUNA, AVOCADO, SPRING ONIONS AND MINT
Orzo translates as 'barley'. It makes me think immediately of The Hobbit and I am transported to Bilbo Baggins' house, Bag End – I am sure Bilbo would have whipped up this dish using ingredients from his various larders, which were treasure troves of pastas, pulses and jars.
180g orzo pasta
1 lemon
4 tbsp olive oil
30g mint leaves, thinly sliced, plus extra to serve
220g jar of albacore tuna in olive oil, drained
1 ripe avocado
4 spring onions, thinly sliced
sea salt
1 Bring a saucepan of water to the boil and cook the orzo for 10 minutes (or according to the packet instructions). Once it is cooked, drain and run under cold water to cool, then leave to drain in a colander over the pan.
2 Zest and juice the lemon into a bowl, then add the orzo and 2 tbsp of the olive oil. Add a good pinch of salt and mix together, then stir through the mint and taste. Adjust the seasoning if needed.
3 Spoon the orzo on to a platter and break up the tuna over it. Spoon over the avocado flesh, drizzle with the remaining olive oil and garnish with the spring onions and extra mint leaves.
HOT-SMOKED TROUT CAESAR SALAD
Here's one of my go-to salads (there are many variations). It has hot-smoked trout, croutons and lettuce, and I lighten things up by using crème fraîche in the dressing instead of mayonnaise. Little gem and romaine lettuces are perfect leaves for this salad. If preferred, you can swap out the trout for tinned herring or flakes of mackerel.
SERVES 4
2 red romaine lettuces
4 little gem lettuces
2 x 112g tins of hot-smoked trout (if unavailable go for vacuum-packed)
1 tbsp chopped flat-leaf parsley leaves
1 tbsp chopped tarragon leaves
For the croutons
100g leftover sourdough bread
1 tbsp olive oil
1 sprig of rosemary, leaves picked
sea salt
For the dressing
1 tsp English mustard
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
zest and juice of 1 lemon
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
3 anchovy fillets, finely chopped
50g parmesan, grated
100ml olive oil
4 tbsp crème fraîche
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Start with the croutons. Preheat the oven to 220C/200C fan/ gas 7. Tear the bread into bite-size pieces, place on a baking sheet and drizzle over the olive oil.
2 Scatter the rosemary over the bread along with a good pinch of sea salt. Roast in the oven for 15-20 minutes until golden brown and crunchy. Remove from the oven and leave to cool.
3 Next, make the dressing. In a bowl, mix together the mustard, Worcestershire sauce, lemon zest and juice, vinegar, anchovy fillets and grated parmesan. Slowly whisk in the olive oil and then the crème fraîche. Season to taste. Add a splash of iced water to loosen the texture, if needed. This dressing can be made up to three days in advance.
4 Separate the leaves of the lettuces, then wash them and spin-dry. To keep them nice and crisp, put them in a bowl, cover with a clean, damp tea towel and keep in the refrigerator until they're needed. Build the salad in layers, starting with the leaves, then the flaked trout and so on. Add the dressing and finally the croutons. Finish with the chopped herbs.
SEA BASS WITH MALAYSIAN DRESSING
Sea bass is perfect if you are new to fish cookery. While this is perhaps a celebratory recipe, it works if you are short on time, too, as it is so quick and easy to prepare. I have many recipes from my grandmother, inspired by her time in Malaysia, and this one is a favourite. It's a recipe that also works very well with whole bream – simply divide the dressing among four bream instead of one whole sea bass.
SERVES 4
800g sea bass, gutted, scaled and trimmed (ask your fishmonger)
2 tbsp olive oil
1 thumb-size piece of fresh root ginger (about 5cm), peeled and cut into matchsticks
coriander leaves
1 bunch of spring onions, washed, trimmed and thinly sliced lengthways
a handful of mint leaves, finely chopped, to garnish
1 bunch of watercress, to garnish
sea salt
For the Malaysian dressing
1 tbsp crushed red chillies preserved in vinegar (I always keep a jar in my larder)
2 tbsp Shaoxing rice wine
1 tbsp dark soy sauce
4 tbsp sesame oil
4 garlic cloves, crushed
1 Preheat the oven to 220C/ 200C fan/gas 7. Prepare the sea bass by laying it on a baking sheet on a piece of foil that you can fold up and around the fish to enclose it like an envelope.
2 With a sharp knife, make four or five incisions in the fish, each about 3cm in length, on the diagonal. Lightly rub the fish with the olive oil and season it with sea salt. Scatter the ginger over and place the coriander leaves in the cavity. Bring the foil together and crimp the edges so that the parcel is sealed.
3 Bake in the oven for 25-30 minutes, then remove and leave to rest for 5-10 minutes.
4 To make the dressing, add the crushed chillies, rice wine and soy sauce to a bowl and stir everything together. In a small pan, gently heat the sesame oil and cook the garlic for 1-2 minutes, then pour the hot garlic oil over the chillies. Set aside.
5 Put the spring onions in a bowl of iced water. This will soften their flavour and make them extra crunchy. Drain and pat dry when ready to serve.
6 When the fish has rested, pull the foil apart, spoon over enough dressing to cover and sprinkle the top of the fish with the spring onions. Garnish with the mint, watercress and extra dressing on the side.
ANCHOVY AND THYME PUFF PASTRY STRAWS
The anchovies are wearing the trousers in these buttery puff pastry straws. Their salty notes marry perfectly with the heat from the chilli and fragrant thyme leaves. Perfect for a pre-dinner drink or a picnic.
50ml good olive oil
2 x 50g tins of anchovy fillets in olive oil (reserve the oil)
1 tsp dried chilli flakes
a handful of thyme leaves
1 x sheet of ready-rolled puff pastry
25g parmesan, grated
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 Preheat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Line a baking sheet with baking parchment.
2 In a small bowl, combine the olive oil, anchovy oil, chilli flakes and most of the thyme leaves. Season with salt and pepper (do not add too much salt as the anchovies are already salty).
3 Unroll the pastry and lay it on the prepared baking sheet. Brush it all over with the olive oil mixture and cut it into about 12 pencil-thin strips, then cut these in half to form 24 short strips. Place the anchovy fillets on the strips. Sprinkle over the grated parmesan and remaining thyme leaves.
4 Bake in the oven for 10-12 minutes until golden.
CITRUS-STUFFED WHOLE RED MULLET WITH BLACK OLIVE TAPENADE TOASTS
Oh-so pretty and eye catching, red mullet really is a beauty. I find it is more of a fishy fish in flavour, in the sense that it is stronger yet still sweet. Roasting it in the oven with citrus and thyme brings zing and colour. The tapenade will keep in the fridge for 3-4 days, so it can be made in advance.
SERVES 4
4 medium red mullet (about 250g each), gutted, scaled and washed
1 bunch of lemon thyme
4 oranges, thinly sliced
2 lemons, thinly sliced
2 tbsp olive oil
For the black olive tapenade
220g jar of pitted black olives
1 garlic clove, peeled
2 anchovy fillets
1⁄2 tsp dried chilli flakes
50ml olive oil
For the toasts
1 baguette or sourdough loaf, sliced 1cm thick (allow 2-3 toasts per person)
1 garlic clove
good olive oil
1 Preheat the oven to 220C/200C fan/gas 7. Score the skin of each mullet three times with a sharp knife (just through the skin, not the flesh). Stuff each cavity with a few sprigs of lemon thyme and the orange and lemon slices. Place the fish in a roasting tin and drizzle with the olive oil. Roast for 15 minutes until cooked through.
2 For the tapenade, place the olives, garlic, anchovies, chilli flakes and olive oil in a food processor and blitz until roughly chopped together.
3 Toast the bread slices and rub with the garlic clove while still hot. Drizzle with olive oil and top with the tapenade. Serve the red mullet with the olive tapenade toasts.
BARBECUED PRAWN TACOS WITH ASPARAGUS, LEMON AND PARSLEY
These tacos are filled with tarragon mayo, smoky charred asparagus and blushing pink, garlicky, chilli prawns that are drunk on sherry and cooked over the coals.
SERVES 4
1 bunch of small asparagus
1.5kg raw tiger prawns, peeled, cleaned and deveined
1 tsp crushed red chillies preserved in vinegar (shop-bought jar)
4 garlic cloves, crushed
25g unsalted butter
juice of 1 lemon
1 tbsp dry sherry
1 bunch of flat-leaf parsley, leaves chopped
8 small wheat tortillas
80g watercress or lamb's lettuce
For the tarragon mayo
3 egg yolks
juice of 1 lemon
1 tsp Dijon mustard
250ml sunflower oil
1 small handful tarragon
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 For the tarragon mayo, place the egg yolks in a food processor and add the lemon juice, mustard and a good pinch of sea salt. Whizz until just combined, With the motor running, slowly pour the oil through the funnel in a fine slow stream until it is all incorporated and has emulsified. Remove the tarragon leaves from the stalks and roughly chop. Fold through the mayo and taste, seasoning as needed.
2 Prepare a barbecue. Char the asparagus over direct heat for 2-3 minutes and set aside.
3 In a bowl, stir together the prawns with the chilli and garlic. Place a cast-iron frying pan over direct heat and melt the butter until it begins to bubble. Add the prawns and cook for 1 minute, or until just translucent. Squeeze over the lemon juice, throw in the sherry and reduce the sauce by a quarter. Stir in the chopped parsley, then set aside.
4 Pop the tortillas over direct heat and cook for 2-3 minutes on each side. Dollop some tarragon mayo on to each tortilla and fill with prawns, sliced asparagus and watercress or lettuce.
NOW BUY THE BOOK
Our recipes are taken from Home Shores by Emily Scott, with photographs by Matt Russell and Emma Bourton (Quadrille, £30). To order a copy for £25.50 with free UK delivery until 22 June, go to mailshop.co.uk/books or call 020 3176 2937.
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