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Eating history: Where to experience Asia's most revered culinary traditions

Eating history: Where to experience Asia's most revered culinary traditions

Tatler Asia02-06-2025

2. Kimjang (Korea)
Above Kimchi-making is one of a revered culinary tradition from Korea (Photo: huiyeon kim via Unsplash)
Unesco inscription: 2013
Few foods inspire as much national pride as kimchi—and few practices are as cherished as kimjang, the communal ritual of making it. Typically held in late autumn, kimjang sees families and neighbours come together to transform mountains of cabbage, radish, garlic and gochugaru (chilli flakes) into vats of fermented brilliance. Each household adds its own variations, whether in spice blends, ingredients or methods.
Beyond preservation, kimjang represents intergenerational learning and social cohesion. Historically a survival strategy for enduring Korea's harsh winters, it remains a vital cultural touchstone today. Unesco recognised kimjang as a powerful expression of Korean solidarity and cultural continuity. Where to experience kimjang
In Seoul, Museum Kimchikan offers workshops that demystify the process. Outside the capital, rural communities host kimjang festivals from late October through early December, with some welcoming visitors. Year-round, Korean folk villages offer immersive classes for those eager to learn this living tradition hands-on.
Don't miss: The history of banchan, the heart of Korean dining 3. Hawker culture (Singapore)
Above One of Singapore's many hawker centres (Photo: Ethan Hu via Unsplash)
Unesco inscription: 2020
Singapore's hawker centres are more than food courts—they're microcosms of a nation. At these bustling open-air markets, Malay satay sizzles next to Chinese noodle stalls, and Indian curries waft through the air. Hawker culture is a living, delicious reflection of Singapore's multicultural society.
Originating from itinerant street vendors, hawker centres were formalised in the 1970s to raise hygiene standards. Today, they are beloved for their affordability, variety and inclusivity. UNESCO's 2020 inscription acknowledged not just the food, but the social fabric: hawker centres as communal spaces where different classes, ethnicities and generations meet in the shared joy of food. Where to experience hawker culture
Try Maxwell Food Centre, home to the famed Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice; Lau Pa Sat, with its colonial-era architecture and evening satay stalls; or neighbourhood gems like Tiong Bahru market or the Old Airport Road food centre. Local favourites often have the longest queues—and the most loyal followings. 4. Traditional tea processing (China)
Above Chinese tea ceremony (Photo: 五玄土 ORIENTO via Unsplash)
Unesco inscription: 2022
In China, tea is more than a drink—it's a philosophical tradition. UNESCO's 2022 listing recognised the cultivation, processing and cultural practices surrounding six main tea types: green, black, white, yellow, oolong and dark (such as Pu-erh). Each has its own terroir, personality and preparation method.
Tea-making is a skill-intensive process involving withering, oxidising and roasting, but it also carries deep cultural and spiritual significance. The Gongfu Cha ceremony, for example, is both a meditation and a gesture of respect. Tea is central to family gatherings, religious festivals and even business etiquette. Where to experience tea culture
Travel to Fujian's Wuyi Mountains for oolong tea, or Yunnan's ancient pu-erh groves. In Hangzhou, Longjing (dragon well) green tea is harvested near West Lake. For a curated experience, visit traditional teahouses in Beijing or Chengdu. Tea markets like Maliandao in Beijing offer a chance to explore China's vast tea landscape in one place. 5. Breakfast rituals (Malaysia)
Above A traditional Malaysian breakfast (Photo: Damia Mustafa via Unsplash)
Unesco inscription: 2023
In Malaysia, breakfast is more than a meal—it's a cultural mosaic. From banana leaf-wrapped nasi lemak to roti canai dipped in dhal, the diversity of breakfast fare reflects the country's multiracial harmony.
In hawker stalls and kopitiams (traditional coffee shops), Malaysians of all backgrounds come together. The dishes themselves often blur culinary boundaries—Chinese-Malay laksa, Indian-Malay mamak roti, and more. UNESCO's 2023 recognition celebrates breakfast as a daily ritual of coexistence, trust and shared identity.
Where to experience breakfast culture
In Kuala Lumpur, Brickfields' mamak stalls are famous for roti and teh tarik. Penang's George Town is a haven for breakfast-hopping—start with char kway teow, then move on to kaya toast and assam laksa. In Ipoh, old-school kopitiams serve kai si hor fun and their legendary white coffee in vintage interiors.
See more: Rooted in Flavour: A deep dive into Malay food

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4 picturesque restaurants in Asia where you can dine by the waterfall
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Iran, Iraq airspace conditions after Israel's strikes impact flights in India
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The living legacy of Chinatowns around the world
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Tatler Asia

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2. Yaowarat, Bangkok Above Bangkok (Photo: Mike González / Pexels) When King Rama I moved the Thai capital to Bangkok in the 1780s, Chinese traders resettled along the Chao Phraya River. Yaowarat Road became the spine of Bangkok's Chinatown, a gilded stretch of gold shops, shrines and shophouses where commerce and culture intertwined. For over two centuries, Yaowarat has remained vibrantly Chinese yet unmistakably Thai. Temples like Wat Mangkon Kamalawat draw worshippers, while street hawkers serve everything from bird's nest soup to Thai-Chinese fusion dishes with generations of culinary know-how behind them. Throughout the centuries, experts, industry insiders and influencers have made Yaowarat well-known. Gentrification has brought boutique hotels and speakeasies, but Yaowarat's spirit remains thick as fish maw soup. The older generation still sweeps storefronts at dawn, while the younger crowd turns family stalls into branded foodie empires. 3. San Francisco, USA Above San Francisco (Photo: Ricky Esquivel / Pexels) Established in the 1850s, San Francisco's Chinatown is the oldest in the US. Born from Gold Rush dreams and hardened by the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1882, the neighbourhood became a fortress against institutional racism. After the 1906 earthquake, the community rebuilt with ornate Chinese-inspired architecture, partly to attract tourists, partly to reclaim dignity. For decades, it was home to Chinese labourers, laundries and secret societies. Today, it's a bustling cultural hub, where Cantonese grandmothers haggle over bok choy and next-gen chefs serve Peking duck in sleek dining rooms. However, encroaching gentrification from tech giants has put immense pressure on the neighbourhood. But Chinatown's residents are reorganising, establishing cultural districts, protecting rent-controlled housing and resisting eviction. Here, the dragon still dances, and it still breathes fire. 4. Flushing, New York, USA Above Flushing (Photo: via Wikimedia Commons) While Manhattan's Chinatown was once the flagship, the real Chinese community boom has shifted to Flushing, Queens. Starting in the 1980s, an influx of immigrants from Fujian, Taiwan and mainland China transformed Flushing into a multilingual megahub. Unlike its Manhattan predecessor, Flushing is less performative and more lived-in. Here, you'll find regional Chinese cuisines rarely seen outside the mainland. Think Lanzhou hand-pulled noodles, Dongbei hot pot and Taiwanese shaved ice. Now, Flushing is rapidly expanding but faces the same gentrification threats as many of the other Chinatowns on this list. Malls, high-rises and luxury condos are appearing at dizzying rates. Still, the community is vocal: demanding infrastructure, transit investment and cultural preservation in the face of displacement. 5. London, Soho, UK Above London (Photo: Artūras Kokorevas / Pexels) The UK's first Chinese enclave started in Limehouse in the 19th century. It was initially home to sailors and working-class migrants. Post-WWII, however, many relocated to Soho, where Chinatown took root amid narrow streets and crumbling postwar buildings. From humbler beginnings, London's Chinatown evolved into a vibrant food and nightlife hub, with Cantonese roast shops, bakeries and later, pan-Asian influences. It's also home to community centres and Chinese-language newspapers that have helped generations settle and eventually thrive. Now, Soho's rise as a nightlife capital and tourist zone has brought soaring rents and a flood of chain restaurants. Yet local organisers are resisting whitewashing, ensuring that alongside the bubble tea and barbecue, the soul of Chinatown remains unmistakably Chinese and defiantly local. 6. Melbourne, Australia Above Melbourne (Photo: Pat Whelen via Pexels) Formed during Australia's 1850s gold rush, Melbourne's Chinatown is the oldest continuously inhabited Chinatown in the Western world. Early Chinese immigrants braved exclusion laws and rigid policies to form tight-knit communities along Little Bourke Street. Over the decades, it evolved from goldfield grit to Art Deco elegance, becoming a cultural landmark for both old and new generations of Chinese-Australians. These days, Melbourne's Chinatown still boasts traditional restaurants and lunar festivals. However, many young Chinese Australians are opening contemporary eateries, fashion boutiques and co-working studios, developing a stylish intersection of heritage and innovation.

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