In Brooklyn, a New Home for Food Books From the Black Diaspora
A food bookstore and culinary hub devoted to Black foodways is opening in Brooklyn this fall.
The sisters behind BEM have been waiting a long time to have keys in hand. After years of searching and several false starts, Gabrielle and Danielle Davenport are working to build a storefront for food literature of the African diaspora in Bed-Stuy.
'People have told us very explicitly, We need this ,' Danielle says.
The duo first launched BEM in 2021, selling books through their online shop and hosting pop-ups. Earlier this month, they announced they finally signed a lease at 373 Lewis Avenue, at Macon Street.
According to Danielle, BEM's buyer, the bookstore selection will continue its mission of exploring cookbooks as well as literature in which 'food shows up in big and interesting and rich ways.' All stocked titles are written by Black authors and feature some aspect of food.
BEM has already carved a reputation as a valued resource. Aside from cookbooks like the Edna Lewis Cookbook , and newer releases like Crystal Wilkinson's Praisesong for the Kitchen Ghosts , BEM highlights books like Toni Morrison's Beloved , in which biscuits feature prominently, and Francesca Ekwuyasi's Butter Honey Pig Bread , which recounts the task of baking a cake in lyrical prose. Ntozake Shange's If I Can Cook/You Know God Can , which pushed Gabrielle to pursue Black food writing, was essential, too.
Though BEM has taken different forms, the sisters always envisioned it as a neighborhood bookstore. Its name is a riff on their grandmothers' initials. The sisters first made a business plan for BEM in September 2019 as part of the Brooklyn Public Library's PowerUP program. The pandemic forced them to launch online-only in January 2021, despite their having little interest in e-commerce. (It was, in a way, a follow-up to a previous endeavor: The sisters knitted and sold scarves on Etsy.)
Over time, BEM started doing longer-term pop-ups and book events that enmeshed the sisters within the food and literary scene. In 2023, Cherry Bombe included the sisters in its Future of Food 50.
It's been a winding path for the sisters, who are seven years apart. Danielle is an actor and writer who has tutored, translated, and worked in restaurants. Gabrielle has been a curator and booker for public institutions and festivals. Danielle spent much of her upbringing in New Jersey, while Gabrielle grew up mostly in California. But after Danielle came to New York to go to Barnard, Gabrielle later followed suit, matriculating at her college.
They always talked about going into business together, and eventually, they both decided to move to Bed-Stuy. Finding that their conversations so often came back to what they were eating and what they were reading, the sisters decided to pursue that intersection. Though many culinary bookstores exist, such as Archestratus and Kitchen Arts & Letters in New York, 'we were like, why are there no Black food bookstores? ' Gabrielle says. They wanted to honor the Black communities and immigrant communities that have shaped Bed-Stuy, particularly in the shadow of gentrification in the neighborhood.
When the store opens this fall — ideally, in time for the season's book releases — it'll make for an especially literary corner; the public library is across the street.
The sisters eyed the space for the past couple of years. It was previously home to Skål, a Danish and Colombian cafe that closed in 2022. When the owner wouldn't rent it, however, the sisters had to look elsewhere. In 2024, they considered another storefront in the neighborhood, which pushed them to create a Kickstarter campaign through which 645 backers pledged over $75,000.
When that location proved not the right fit, the sisters spent months trying to buy 373 Lewis Avenue through a Small Business Administration loan, only for the seller to have a change of heart. It wasn't a total dead end, of course: The sisters were offered a lease instead.
They held out for a reason: A wall of floor-to-ceiling windows floods the spacious room with light, with room for seating outside. At the back of the room is a generously-sized kitchen and a bar counter.
The Davenports' dream is for BEM to be an all-day destination where people stop for coffee and a pastry before grabbing the bus, caregivers drop by with kids for after-school snack plates, chefs host supper clubs and teach cooking classes, scholars research from an archive of Black culinary books, and authors celebrate book launches.
The publishing industry may always be a risk, but the sisters have proven that there's demand for a place like BEM. And the timing seems right: BEM will join an influx of new bookstore cafes across the borough, most recently including Liz's Book Bar in Carroll Gardens and the forthcoming Bushwick outpost of the East Village's Book Club Bar.
To Danielle, the silver lining of all this waiting is that they've had time to build up a community, some of whom are already asking about hosting their events at BEM. This weekend, BEM will collaborate on a Juneteenth event with Nicole Taylor, author of Watermelon & Red Birds: A Cookbook for Juneteenth and Black Celebrations .
The sisters think back on the bookstores that shaped them. For Gabrielle, the tall shelves at the creaky-floored Walden Pond Books in Oakland offered the comforting feeling of 'being enveloped.' For Danielle, Denver's Tattered Cover provided a sense of solace during what she calls a 'weird time' in her life.
'There's just so much energy around stories,' she says. They hope to imbue BEM with similar qualities. 'We talk a lot about it being a place for discovery,' Danielle says.
'And I hope it's fun,' Gabrielle adds. 'I hope people come here on a Thursday night to get a drink with a friend, just because it's a nice place to hang out.' See More:
Hashtags
Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles
Business Insider
3 hours ago
- Business Insider
EU and Italy announce major debt-relief deal for Africa
Italy is working with the European Union on a debt-relief plan for African countries, as part of its broader push to foster development on the continent and address the root causes of irregular migration. " The entire 10-year operation will allow us to convert some 235 million euros ($270.67 million) of debt into development projects to be implemented locally," Italian Prime Minister Giorgia Meloni, said. In addition to the EU-led efforts, Italy is advancing its strategic framework, the Mattei Plan for Africa, which aims to accelerate growth in agriculture, energy, and infrastructure across African nations, according to Reuters. The European Union's involvement complements these efforts through its Global Gateway strategy, launched in 2021 to foster sustainable, high-standard investment as an alternative to China's Belt and Road Initiative. One of the flagship projects under this collaboration is funding for a new transport corridor connecting Angola's Lobito port with Zambia and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, a crucial mineral export route. "Investing in infrastructure is not just building railways, bridges and dams. It is also investing in training for local workers because that builds capacity and that is how transfer of expertise happens. And this results in positive spillovers all across the local economies of Africa. There is no better example than our work on the Lobito corridor," President of the European Commission, Ursula von der Leyen said. Meloni also stressed the urgency of addressing Africa's growing debt burden, warning it could 'undermine all other efforts' toward inclusive and sustainable development if left unaddressed. She revealed that a new initiative is being developed to reduce the debt load of low- and middle-income African countries by up to 50%. While she did not provide specific details, she emphasized that addressing debt was central to Italy's broader strategy for fostering long-term growth and stability in Africa.
Business Insider
3 hours ago
- Business Insider
South Africa leads Africa in the latest global press freedom ranking
Only three African countries rank in the top 30 globally, while economic pressure, political control, and insecurity undermine press freedom across the continent. The 2025 World Press Freedom Index ranks South Africa 27th, marking it as the top African nation for press freedom. Namibia and Cape Verde also feature in the top 30 globally, showcasing their commitment to press freedom standards. The report highlights the interplay between economic and political instability and diminished media freedom across the continent. In the newly released 2025 World Press Freedom Index by Reporters Without Borders (RSF), South Africa has been ranked as the most press-friendly country in Africa, placing 27th out of 180 countries globally, a notable jump of 11 positions from its ranking last year. The country retains its position in the 'satisfactory' category, lauded for its reliable legal protections, pluralistic media landscape, and relative independence from government and corporate interference. Namibia (28th) and Cape Verde (30th) also rank in the same category, joining a small group of African countries that uphold press freedom standards alongside European and Asian counterparts. However, the continental trend remains concerning, with most African nations falling into the "difficult" or "very serious" press freedom zones and several experiencing record declines in media safety, legal protection, and financial sustainability. What the World Press Freedom Index Measures The World Press Freedom Index evaluates media freedom in 180 countries and territories using five key indicators: Political context, Legal framework; Economic context; Sociocultural context and Safety of journalists Score Range Zone African Countries Meaning [85 - 100 points] Good Journalism is fully protected; few or no constraints. [70 - 85 points] Satisfactory South Africa (27), Namibia (28), Cape Verde (30) Media is mostly free, but vulnerable to institutional or commercial pressure [55 - 70 points] Problematic Ghana (49), Mauritius (50), Senegal (74), Seychelles (59), Botswana (65), Malawi (72), Gabon (41) Structural issues and pressure from political or economic actors exist. [40 - 55 points] Difficult Nigeria (122), Tunisia (129), Cameroon (131), DR Congo (133), Somalia (136), Libya (137), Kenya (117), Benin (92), Togo (121), Guinea (103), Burkina Faso (105), Mali (119), Uganda (143), Burundi (125) Press freedom is significantly constrained; journalists often self-censor [0 - 40 points] Very Serious Rwanda (146), Ethiopia (145), Egypt (170), Eritrea (180 Journalism is dangerous or impossible; extreme censorship and violence occur RSF's findings highlight a concerning trajectory between economic elites' influence over media and editorial self-censorship. In many African countries, media outlets rely heavily on advertising revenue from state actors or politically aligned corporations, compromising their independence. Although some African nations demonstrate stability and openness, the media advocacy agency warns that the economic and political climate in much of Africa is becoming increasingly hostile to journalism. Despite challenges, RSF identifies South Africa, Namibia, and Cape Verde as examples of how legal protections, institutional accountability, and civic engagement can safeguard press freedom.
Business Insider
4 hours ago
- Business Insider
Russia connects 20 state universities with Guinea in bid to deepen educational ties
Guinea and Russia are advancing plans to strengthen academic cooperation by linking Guinean universities to a consortium of about 20 Russian institutions, to train students in specialized high-tech fields critical to Guinea's economic development. Guinea and Russia are advancing plans for inter-university collaboration between about 20 Russian institutions and Guinean universities. The partnership aims to train Guinean students in specialized high-tech fields critical to economic development. Priority fields for training include agriculture, trade, infrastructure, energy, healthcare, and public services. Kabèlè Soumah, Secretary General of the Ministry of Planning and International Cooperation of Guinea, disclosed the update during talks with representatives from Russia's State Duma. He noted that the discussions are already well advanced and build on earlier engagements between Russian and Guinean officials at a previous edition of the same dialogue. According to Soumah, the central idea is to facilitate cooperation between Guinean universities and a group of approximately twenty Russian universities. This collaboration will focus on training Guinean students in cutting-edge specializations aligned with the country's national priorities. Talks are expected to continue in the coming weeks and will be supported by the scheduled opening of the Russian House in Conakry this July. Soumah emphasized that the launch of the Russian House presents a timely opportunity to move forward in concrete terms with the academic partnership. ' This is a step forward in this direction, ' he said, referring to the inter-university cooperation. Targeted training for Guinean students Speaking, Kabèlè Soumah, Secretary General of the Ministry of Planning and International Cooperation of Guinea explained that the agreement would allow Guinean students to participate in joint-degree programs, both in Guinea and at the targeted Russian institutions. These programs will be specifically tailored to focus on sectors that are vital to Guinea's economic growth. The priority fields identified include agriculture, agro-industry, trade, infrastructure, energy, public services, healthcare, and the general well-being of the population. Soumah stressed the importance of aligning academic training with the country's strategic needs. ' We should take advantage of this opening ceremony, move forward concretely,' he stated, urging action that turns the current dialogue into results. The collaboration reflects broader educational diplomacy between Russia and African countries and is positioned to enhance capacity-building in Guinea through targeted international partnerships.
