Watching cricket with English India supporters – and the boisterous Bharat Army
Leicester is home to Raj Patel and Sukhi Singh. But, really, wherever India's cricket team go, you will invariably find this intrepid pair.
World Cups, Test series, even a one-day tournament just outside Amsterdam, Patel and Singh have been there as proud members of the Bharat Army, effectively India's supporters club. Usually, they will have been enjoying something of a party in the stand.
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Take Friday and Saturday this week. The pair have been in Leeds for the opening two days of the First Rothesay Test match. India have spent most of proceedings on top, centuries from captain Shubman Gill, Yashasvi Jaiswa and Rishabh Pant in the first innings helping the tourists to a commanding 471 all out against England. By the close of play, the hosts had replied with 209-3 thanks to an unbeaten century from Ollie Pope.
Banding together on both days towards the back of Block E on Headingley's once notorious Western Terrace were Patel, Singh and a sizeable number of fellow Bharat (Hindi for 'India') foot-soldiers, all lapping up much of what they saw out in the middle.
'Watching India on days like these makes you feel proud,' says Patel, who has attended every one-day international World Cup since 1999. 'Especially, as this is something of a new era for Indian cricket following the retirement of Rohit Sharma and Virat Kohli.
'To see this new group — and especially the captain Shubman Gill — start so well has meant a great deal to all the Indian fans here.'
Patel was an early conscript for the Bharat Army, effectively India's equivalent to the 'Barmy Army' group of supporters who have followed England all over the world in their thousands for the past three decades.
Until recently, he played the Bhangra drums that go everywhere the fans group' goes when following their team. 'I retired to let the younger generation in our crew have a go,' adds the 58-year-old. 'Plus, it lets me take on board a few more fluids.'
The Athletic was invited to spend time with Patel and his friends in the stand on Saturday afternoon. What a joyful experience it proved to be, as their flag — emblazoned with 'Shubman Gill's Bharat Army' — caught the breeze blowing across Headingley that offered such welcome respite after an otherwise oppressively hot start to the Test.
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Just a few minutes in such excited company reinforced why cricket is considered a religion to Indians on the subcontinent and beyond. It underlined the cultural connection that can come for those who don't live in India by watching their team together.
Priyanshu Pati and partner Sakshi hail from Greenwich, London, and watched India take charge on day one from what the couple described with a smile as 'a chaotic' Western Terrace.
'India loves cricket so much as a nation,' says Pati. 'We wanted to be in Leeds, even though we're just here for the day. Cricket makes the Indian people, regardless of where they are based, feel so proud.'
10am, Friday. The start of the first Test between two of cricket's powerhouses is an hour away and the streets outside Headingley are thronged.
The sun feels to have brought everyone out, as cricket fans excitedly make their way to a stadium that has become synonymous with sporting drama down the years thanks to Ian Botham's Ashes winning heroics in 1981 and then England captain Ben Stokes proving equally adept at breaking Australia hearts 38 years later.
England fans were in the majority as fans edged their way through the turnstiles, as was to be expected considering their side are on home soil. But there's a healthy number of India replica shirts on show, too.
A few have made the near 5,000 mile trip from India. But, judging by the accents that can be heard amid the excited chatter, most of those sporting the visitors' colours hail from the UK.
Tushar Das has joined dad Sudipto to make the trek north from Bournemouth, on the south coast of England. The pair are huge cricket fans and enjoyed watching England take on the likes of the West Indies and Australia in the past.
Headingley is one of only two Test venues in the UK that they have not visited, Old Trafford in Manchester being the other. Father and son, though, admit there is something extra special about cheering their beloved India on.
'We are big fans of cricket,' says Tushar. 'And we do watch neutral games, really enjoy them. But cricket is like a national pride thing to all Indians. These are our boys.'
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Dad agrees. 'We all love cricket,' adds Sudipto. 'Everyone gets along, no matter who you support. We are all passionate about our own team, whether that's India or England. But the ambience is superb. Everyone is enjoying a laugh and a drink. It is really friendly and part of the appeal.
'The Indian fans are so passionate. To me, they are like football fans in how devoted they are to the team. Like the Barmy Army, too.'
Comparisons with England's band of cricket followers are apt. Two of cricket's most established brands owe their existence to like-minded supporters coming together to support their favourite cricket team and have since grown into successful travel companies.
The Bharat Army began life during the 1999 World Cup. The tournament was staged in the UK, which is always a popular host due to the huge number of ex-pat communities from competing nations.
Sure enough, the Super Six group stage clash between Pakistan and India proved a hot ticket. The problem from the Indian perspective was their fans were more spread out across Old Trafford than the opposition. This gave the impression Pakistan had a bigger support in a 47-run defeat to their big rivals.
This prompted Bharat Army founder Rakesh Patel to set the ball rolling with an appeal to fellow Indian cricket devotees.
Like the Barmy Army (formed five years earlier by travelling fans during the 1994-95 England tour Down Under to Australia), they grew quickly and created a similarly lively atmosphere in stands across the world.
In time, the Barmy Army's move into the travel business would be emulated to allow fans to follow India on tour. Where the Bharat Army did differ, however, from their English counterparts was how they were formed solely by fans from outside the country they support.
Members continued to be exclusively UK-based in the early days before blossoming into the global entity it has become today, boasting members from India and plenty of other nations with a strong ex-pat community.
Embodying this loyalty to India regardless of location are Pathik Patel and Drashti Balar, who had flown to the UK from Wisconsin, in the United States, to attend the Headingley Test as well as the recent World Test Championship final between Australia and winners South Africa at Lord's.
'I live in the United States but am originally from India,' says Pathik Patel. 'This is my first time watching India live so I am excited. Especially, as this is like a new team after Virat Kohli and Sharma, our two veteran batsmen, retired. That makes it a big day for Shubman Gill. I'm glad we are here for him.'
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Gill goes on to justify this support with a masterful century in front of a sell-out crowd on day one. India's newly-appointed captain was finally dismissed shortly before 12.30pm on Saturday, his career best 147 in Test cricket helping India finish on 471 all out despite a late order collapse that momentarily quietened the incessant noise from the Indian faithful.
Then came a short break for rain before play resumed to more cheers from the Indian contingent, as Jasprit Bumrah dismissed opener Zak Crawley inside the opening over of England's reply.
Enjoying India's dominance for a second day was Anita Patel, born in Mumbai but now living in Preston, Lancashire. Her 11-year-old son, Oscar Walmsley, supports England so the pair are used to enjoying plenty of banter at home.
'He always supports England because he is born and bred here,' she says. 'We all respect that, just as he respects India are the best team! Cricket is a real family affair, passed down the generations in our case.
'There were five us here on day one, including my mum. We go to as many matches as we can. Apart from Lord's, I have been to all the English (Test) grounds. I will finally get to Lord's this year, again to watch India.'
The Bharat Army will be flying the flag for Indian cricket throughout the series — the opening two days whetted the appetite for all cricket lovers.
'It's been a great couple of days,' says Sukhi Singh, born in Plaistow, London, but now based in Leicester. 'Supporting Indian cricket is like a brotherhood. It's been like that since I started travelling to watch the team.
'Cricket has changed and India are a powerhouse these days. That's a good feeling. Things used to be run from England but now the power has shifted. What I will say, though, is the atmosphere is electric regardless of whether India are doing well or not.
'Obviously, though, we prefer it when it's like Friday and all the England fans around us are very quiet.'
Mention of England makes us wonder if there are ever any split-loyalties for Singh, 59, and his good pal Raj Patel, say in other sports. 'We follow England football,' adds Patel, who was the Bharat Army's contact for the Midlands in their early years.
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'Not by physically going to the games but on TV. We do enjoy our football but not as passionately as cricket. I am married to cricket along with my wife. She knew I loved cricket before we got together so knew what to expect.
'Cricket is my first love and it's the same for a lot of Indians.'
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