Military precision — the best luxury field watches
Field watches may signify rugged sophistication today, but their first wearers had rather more pressing concerns. Developed for use in the First World War, field watches helped troops and gun batteries synchronise their operations, lessening the risk of friendly fire during attacks. And it was far quicker for a soldier to check his wrist than to dig out a pocket watch — the timepiece of choice for men at that time. Although form is as important as functionality in modern field watches, the essential properties remain the same — they are durable, easy to read and easy to use.
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Referencing early-20th-century military pocket watches, the Terra Nova is a homage to vintage design. There's the tonneau case, which was first seen in 1906; the numerals, which have a retro look about them and, in a nod to today's improved technology, are actually Super-LumiNova blocks; and the railroad track around the outer edge of the dial that recalls field watches past. £2,850; bremont.com
This is a minimalist take on the field watch brief. There isn't even a date on it. It's classic Tudor in that respect — extraneous detail isn't the brand's style. The only concession to colour is the strap, and this woven version is a brand signature made by a traditional passementerie company that still practises the art of jacquard weaving. Sturdy as well as smart. £2,670; tudorwatch.com
The Paris-based maker Serica has become synonymous with robust timepieces that also cut a dash sartorially. The Field Chronometer has all the details associated with field watches — luminescent hands and hour and minute markers, legibility, white indices — but adds panache by opting for California numbering (half Roman, half Arabic) in a case that will slip under a cuff. £848; serica-watches.com
Vertex was the only British brand among the 'Dirty Dozen' — the 12 companies tasked in 1943 to make watches for military use according to defence ministry specifications. It is from those details, including a black dial, white Arabic lume-filled numerals and luminescent hour and minute markers, railroad-style minutes and a small seconds, that our idea of how a field watch should look was formed. This model is a worthy successor. £2,500; vertex-watches.com
Purists might question the inclusion of this watch but let's think of it as 'fashion field'. It still has easy-to-read luminescent numerals, a railtrack minute indication and there's the addition of a GMT function. It's named after the 19th-century British explorer Richard Lander and the Nigerian city he visited — although it's debatable whether he would have considered wearing this pink dial in the field. £1,265; farer.com
This watch is named after the driest non-polar desert in the world, which is a stand-in for Mars in expedition simulations, and has been designed to withstand its conditions. It has an illumination system that guarantees 24/7 readability for up to 25 years, a stainless-steel case and water resistance to 200m. Though why you'd need that last attribute in the desert is anyone's guess. £1,339; uk.luminox.com
The Seiko 5 line, launched in 1963, has become a byword for reliable automatics at affordable prices. It's not all function, however: this trench watch-inspired timepiece does have some flair. The contrast of the blue dial with the golden numerals makes a change from monochrome and the texture on the calfskin strap adds a little luxury, while the cursive on 'Automatic' contributes to the vintage vibe. £280; seikoboutique.co.uk
Hamilton gets extra kudos for having been worn by the US military after it supplied railroad watches to soldiers during the First World War. This latest update to its well-loved Khaki Field Auto features contrast dial finishing, a 24-hour track and anti-reflective coating on the sapphire crystal. It does come with a bracelet, but this luscious brown leather strap feels more on theme. £640; hamiltonwatch.com
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