Why this Mediterranean country is the perfect place for a family holiday
I step onto ancient stones in a clearing, surrounded by several tall columns reaching up into the bright blue sky. 'This would have been the agora, the marketplace,' says my guide David. We're standing in the middle of the ancient kingdom city of Amathus, dating back to the Iron Age of 1100 BC.
'They chose this spot because of the water source,' he explains, pointing to an area where a river once flowed as we climb through what was once ladies and men's public bathrooms.
Aside from a small entrance fee (€2.50/£2), there are no barriers or walkways to enter the site and the only guided tours are organised by my hotel, Parklane Resort & Spa Limassol, a five-minute drive away on Cyprus ' south coast.
'The site is not getting the recognition it deserves,' says David, explaining that most tourists head for the area's better known archaeological wonders like Kourion. 'But this is the most important,' he insists. And it's still being excavated, so discoveries are being made all the time. 'Just one or two years ago parts of this were still underground'.
The island of Cyprus, the third largest and third most populous island in the Med, has a rich ancient history – the first human activity was some 13 thousand years ago – and Cypriots take pride in many 'firsts' and 'oldests'.
Although my four-year-old daughter is too young to appreciate the significance of ancient finds – including the oldest perfume factory in the world, the biggest handmade vase and a wine variety dating back to 800 BC – the island's combination of beach, sun and culture is the perfect balance to keep us both entertained on a short break.
Parklane, a five-star resort and part of the Marriot group's luxury collection, is located a convenient 30 minutes from Larnaca airport and a further half hour to the country's second largest city, Limassol (which can be reached by a €40/£34 taxi or a slower local bus for €2/£1.70).
The city is a busy business port but also home to well-known archeological sites, including the Sanctuary of Apollo and the ancient Limassol Castle with its attached medieval museum. There's also an attractive old town with cobblestone streets and overhanging terraces.
Meanwhile, the picturesque village of Lefkara – famous for lace embroidery and silver craftsmanship practices preserved from the days of Venetian rule – is 30 minutes' drive inland.
To get some time to head out of the hotel, I – like many parents – make use of the Explorers Kids Club. An expansive playground area, bouncy castle and shallow swimming pool complete with a pirate ship with slides are enough to keep kids smiling for hours.
Here, parents can accompany their little ones at any time or pay extra to leave their children with the staff who organise activities for different age groups (from four months to 11 years), ranging from arts and crafts, games and swimming. Twice daily four-hour sessions run in the mornings and afternoons, giving parents time to explore or relax.
One day, I opt for the latter and head to the spa, a small facility with treatment rooms and a steam room. The 60-minute Kalloni Experience massage is just what I need after a busy few weeks at work.
The sandy beach is moments from our room (a smart, spacious super king with sea views) but the hotel's three large outdoor swimming pools are the real draw. Both to the front and side of the main building, there's so much pool space, we don't even get in them all – and you'll never be fighting for a deck chair.
I spend several afternoons relaxing while my daughter happily splashes around.
When temperature drops – or the wind picks up (as is common in Cyprus, particularly on the south coast) – there's a heated indoor pool, alongside a well-equipped gym and sauna.
With five restaurants, the hotel's food options are varied and of great quality. We head to Lanes for a vast buffet breakfast, where omelettes are rustled up at the egg station, fresh fruit is in abundance and pink champagne flows.
There's an international flair to most of the cuisine here, from sushi made to order at The Gallery, to a Cypriot-take on French food at La Petite Maison. For a more affordable option, the poolside Vithos is a sunny spot for a tasty lunch.
For something really special, I head to seafood spot Nammos, where tables in a courtyard with hanging plants sit right on the sea. I order grilled squid followed by prawn ravioli in a bisque, and bask in the fresh air with a book and a glass of local wine – this time, child-free, while my daughter paints pottery in the kids club.
As all parents will understand, sometimes you need a holiday from your holiday.
How to plan your trip
Rooms at Parklane, a Luxury Collection Resort & Spa, Limassol (marriott.com), start at €200/£173 per night, including breakfast.
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