Review: S.F. Symphony and Giancarlo Guerrero deliver orchestral showstoppers
Conductor Giancarlo Guerrero's two previous appearances with the San Francisco Symphony amply showcased his flair for colorful, dramatic music. After a two-year gap, he's back at Davies Symphony Hall with a program of glittering orchestral showpieces.
The late Kaija Saariaho composed 'Asteroid 4179: Toutatis' in 2005 as a complement to a Berlin Philharmonic concert featuring Gustav Holst's 'The Planets.' The asteroid in question is tiny and irregularly shaped, and at about four minutes in length, the music matches the object's scale.
In addition to the astronomical theme, there are the typical Saariaho trademarks: beautiful, ingeniously layered orchestration and power that wells up over the course of the work. The piece opens with crystalline transparency, a piccolo, percussion and celesta floating above the larger orchestra. Massed brass instruments interrupt, and after a brief climax, the orchestra dies away into silence.
It was a thoughtful start to this flashy program heard on Friday, May 2, the first of two concerts at Davies, concluding on Saturday, May 3.
Igor Stravinsky's great ballet score 'Petrushka' unfolds on a completely different scale, taking some 40 minutes to tell the story of three puppets brought to life by a magician. Guerrero led a taut, exciting account of the work, performed in Stravinsky's revised 1947 version.
One of the Costa Rican conductor's superpowers is his ability to throw a spotlight on a piece's structure through knife-edge timing and control of dynamics. Another is knowing when to step back and let the musicians do their thing. Tight ensemble playing was a hallmark of this 'Petrushka.' At the same time, Guerrero gave associate principal flute Blair Francis Paponiu complete freedom in her beautifully played cadenza.
The conductor's emphasis on sharply articulated rhythms paid off throughout the work, especially in 'The Grand Carnival' section, when competing bands seemingly play in different meters. Every crescendo and decrescendo was perfectly timed. Occasionally, a section or player was drowned out in the welter of sound. John Wilson's casual virtuosity on piano, positioned right in front of the conductor, was a highlight of the 'Russian Dance,' but Guerrero covered Wilson's playing too often in the opening tableau. The strings were sometimes obliterated by the brass. Nonetheless, this was a thrilling account of a great work.
What do Stravinsky and Ottorino Respighi have in common? Both composers studied with Nikolai Rimsky-Korsakov, one of the great orchestrators of the 19th century, and both came away with enormous skill in handling huge forces.
The second half of Friday's program was devoted to Respighi's 'Fountains of Rome' and 'Pines of Rome,' flamboyant blockbusters that have to walk a fine line to avoid turning into kitsch. (This is never an issue with Stravinsky.) Guerrero performed them with a straight face, and his enormous technical skill and ear for color and dynamics made this music sound better than perhaps it fundamentally is.
The first work makes its way around Rome, picturing fountains in different locations throughout the day. The 'Valle Giulia' movement, with chiming winds and a prominent celesta part, seemingly pays homage to Richard Strauss' opera 'Der Rosenkavalier.' Special kudos to Marc Shapiro, whose celesta playing contributed beautifully to all four works on the program, and to principal oboe Eugene Izotov and principal flute Yubeen Kim for their work in both Respighi pieces. The brass, too, played brilliantly throughout.
It's an oddity of 'Pines of Rome' that the splashy first movement, 'The Pines of the Villa Borghese,' sounds more like an actual fountain than anything in 'Fountains of Rome.' In 'Pines Near a Catacomb,' Guerrero finely judged every climax; principal trumpet Mark Inouye was magnificent in his moody offstage solo (and also in 'Petrushka'). Principal clarinet Carey Bell's long-breathed, introspective solo in 'The Pines of the Janiculum' was another highlight, as were the silken strings and oceanic sound Guerrero conjured.
As for the last movement, 'The Pines of the Appian Way,' here Respighi generates excitement through some of the more obvious tricks in a composer's arsenal: antiphonal brass playing from the terrace, full-orchestra chromatic slides and an admittedly electrifying five-minute-long crescendo.
The movement is intended to evoke marching Roman legions, but it might just as well be invoking Italian Fascists or Imperial Stormtroopers. We describe, you decide.
San Francisco Classical Voice.
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Amid the ferocity, the Grant Parkers always sounded whetted and clean, moving through the works' shifting meters with fearsome precision. In the final windup to the end, electric energy gave way to ringing, Mussorgskyan grandeur. Between the Hailstork and Bernstein, Jeremy Black returned to the festival as both concertmaster and featured soloist, offering up the Mendelssohn Violin Concerto. Even the brunt of the evening's downpour couldn't wash away the strong impression left by this filigree, soulful performance. Black's sound in the opening theme and balladic second movement was sugared but never treacly. Meanwhile, the Allegro molto vivace coasted along serenely, Black's bel canto phrasing and pristine intonation never betraying its finger-flying briskness. Promisingly, Guerrero's orchestral accompaniment was every bit as tasteful. Negotiating solo string balance in the park is always just that — a negotiation — but Guerrero hit the sweet spot of clarity and restraint. 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The World's Top Mezcal, According To The Beverage Testing Institute
A selection of bottles of fine mezcal from a range of Mexican producers are displayed for sale at Benito Juarez market in Oaxaca, Mexico on February 23, 2017. / AFP PHOTO / Omar TORRES (Photo credit should read OMAR TORRES/AFP via Getty Images) AFP via Getty Images Nine mezcals were awarded Gold Medals at the 2025 Beverage Testing Institute (BevTest) Tequila Judging. El Acabo Plata Raicilla was the top-ranked agave spirit and one of only two Platinum medal winners in the category. Tres Papalote Cupreata Blanco was the highest-rated mezcal. Below is a brief background on each of the gold medalists, along with the official BevTest tasting notes on the Tequilas. Score: 95 - Gold Medal–Exceptional Produced in Guerrero, Tres Papalote uses 100% wild Cupreata agave. This mezcal is crafted in traditional pit ovens and produced using artisanal techniques. The official BevTest Tasting Panel described the Mezcal as featuring aromas of 'cookie dough, green pozole, and crushed rocks accompanied by flavors of watermelon with tajin, crab boil, and fresh hops. A journey of flavors from sweet white corn to curry, hops, watermelon, pork fat, Tajin, exotic spice, and clay - stellar from nose to the super long finish.' Score: 93 - Gold Medal–Exceptional A modern, artistic mezcal brand focused on bold flavor and visual appeal. Crafted with espadín agave and contemporary roasting methods in Oaxaca. The official BevTest Tasting Panel described the Mezcal as featuring aromas of 'crushed rock, ruby red grapefruit, and ginger followed by flavors of salted butterscotch toffee, fresh green pepper, and turmeric. Wildly complex and balanced with the perfect amount of smoke to make the best Paloma of your life.' Score: 93 - Gold Medal–Exceptional Gracias A Dios is a sustainable mezcal brand from Santiago Matatlán, Oaxaca. Produced using espadín agave and double distillation in copper stills. The official BevTest Tasting Panel described the Mezcal as featuring aromas of 'cocoa butter, dried chili pepper, and mango skins with flavors of dark, milk chocolate, and shishito pepper. Flavors of floral chocolates explode on the palate with a subtle heat lingering on the finish. Score: 93 - Gold Medal–Exceptional Produced by maestro mezcalero Emigdio Jarquin in Miahuatlán, Oaxaca. Part of the Mezcal Vago series, known for village-level craft distillations and unfiltered flavor. The official BevTest Tasting Panel described the Mezcal as featuring aromas of 'guava, trail mix, and salted caramel followed by flavors of agave, spearmint, and prickly pear. A salty, floral treat with a creamy body to try on the rocks.' A field of Espadin agave (Agave angustifolia) taken at the mezcal factory Tres Colibries in Villa Sola de Vega, Oaxaca State, Mexico, on July 26, 2022. - (Photo by Pedro PARDO / AFP) (Photo by PEDRO PARDO/AFP via Getty Images) AFP via Getty Images Score: 93 - Gold Medal–Exceptional Another expression from Mezcal Vago, distilled by Joel Barriga and known for bold, smoky mezcals with unique character and robust proof. The official BevTest Tasting Panel described the Mezcal as featuring aromas of masa, bear claw donuts, and smoked tea, accompanied by flavors of salted caramel, wet slate, and lemongrass. Warm and satisfying, carrying the high proof beautifully, managing the smoke perfectly like conversing with an old friend at a campfire.' Score: 91 - Gold Medal–Exceptional Part of the Casamigos line co-founded by George Clooney, this joven mezcal is made with Espadín agave in Oaxaca. The official BevTest Tasting Panel described the Mezcal as featuring aromas of 'agave, prickly pear, and plum with flavors of lime, green pepper, and roasted pineapple. The flavor packs a punch that won't get lost in a cocktail, yet holds itself well to be enjoyed alone.' Score: 90 - Gold Medal–Exceptional Mezcal Vago's Elote expression includes roasted corn added during the second distillation—a flavorful and festive take on traditional Espadín mezcal. The official BevTest Tasting Panel described the Mezcal as featuring aromas of 'crushed rocks, black pepper, and cake sugar with flavors of white birthday cake, spice mix, and green salsa. Active and fun, rich and warming, this mezcal brings a pleasant kick of herbs and pepper.' Score: 90 - Gold Medal–Exceptional An ensemble of various agave species. This mezcal is distilled in clay pot stills, reflecting Oaxaca's ancient production style and earthy complexity. Ensenmble mezcals are fashioned from whichever agave is ready to harvest, hence each batch is different. The official BevTest Tasting Panel described the Mezcal as featuring aromas of 'cinnamon, apple blossom, and walnut shells with flavors of green tea, strawberry mint, and dried leaves. The combination of herbs and fruits balanced with pepper tones from the proof makes this spirit a delight to enjoy neat.' Score: 92 - Gold Medal–Exceptional Pechugas are agave spirits whose vapor is brought into contact with fruits, vegetables, meat, or other organic material during distillation. This expression is an exceptional seasonal mezcal from Salvadores, distilled with fruit, spices, and chicken breast for richness. Infused with marigold (cempasúchil), this is a festive and culinary experience. The official BevTest Tasting Panel described the Mezcal as featuring aromas of 'butter cream, roasted pineapples, and lavender with flavors of sweet baking spices, lemon marmalade, and coriander. Rich and composed, a full dish of a pechuga from start to finish.' A mezcal still at an artisanal mezcal distillery in the valley of Oaxaca, Mexico. (Photo by: Jon G. Fuller/VW Pics/Universal Images Group via Getty Images) VW Pics/Universal Images Group via Getty Images The top-rated agave spirit was El Acabo Plata Raicilla. It was the highest-scoring agave spirit in the BevTest 2025 judging. Raicilla is a traditional Mexican agave spirit, primarily produced in the western state of Jalisco, particularly in the coastal and mountainous regions outside the Tequila Denomination of Origin. It is made from a variety of wild and cultivated agave species, most commonly Agave maximiliana, Agave lechuguilla, and Agave angustifolia, among others. Unlike Tequila and Mezcal, Raicilla often uses pit or above-ground ovens and filtration through organic materials, resulting in a more floral, fruity, and earthy profile. Recognized with its own Denomination of Origin in 2019, Raicilla showcases the diversity of Mexico's agave spirits with a distinctly regional identity. Score: 97 - Platinum Medal–Superlative El Acabo is a premium raicilla from Jalisco, made from Maximiliana or Lechuguilla agave. Known for intense, wild flavors, it's an artisanal spirit gaining global recognition. The official BevTest Tasting Panel described the Mezcal as featuring aromas of 'sandalwood, wet leather, and browning butter accompanied by flavors of pepper crusted tandoori mango, green papaya-lime-chili, and cumin seared cactus. A culinary journey in a glass keeps getting better with every multi-flavored sip, fruity-dry-fatty-savory all at the same time.' The 2025 BevTest Judging highlighted the enormous diversity of Mexico's agave spirits. Although Tequila still represents the bulk of Mexico's agave spirits, Mezcal is rapidly growing, providing a range of diverse aroma and flavor profiles. In addition, there are a score of regional agave spirits, many of which are relatively unknown outside of Mexico, that are also expanding the aroma and flavor profile of agave spirits. With more than 100 different species of indigenous agave and a distillation tradition dating back centuries, Mexico's incredible diversity of mezcal and other agave spirits awaits exploration.
