A Guide to Empordà, the Artistic Hot Spot of Spain's Costa Brava

Spain's Costa Brava has long been a magnet for the jet set, its pebbled calas and charming fishing villages luring everyone from Truman Capote and Marcel Duchamp to Ava Gardner. While you could easily follow in their footsteps, spending your vacation hopping from one rocky playa to the next, that would mean missing out on the wider charms of Empordà, the storied region stretching inland from the Mediterranean Sea and north toward the French border.
Once home to the first Greek settlement on the Iberian Peninsula, this picturesque corner of Spain, just an hour and a half north of Barcelona, encompasses a patchwork of honey-hued medieval towns, vineyard-blanketed hills, and rocky landscapes shaped by the fierce Tramuntana wind—which is said to have inspired the creative genius of the region's most famous son, Salvador Dalí.
But Empordà's pastoral beauty and agricultural soul shouldn't distract from its more contemporary draws: a red-hot arts scene, detour-worthy dining, and an explosion of new design-forward hotels, including Finca Victoria, Villa Salvador, and a new property launched by the brothers behind the region's three-Michelin-starred El Celler de Can Roca. 'Amazingly, Empordà still feels under-the-radar,' says Pau Guardans, founder of Único Hotels, whose jewel-box retreat Mas de Torrent is the preferred bolthole of Barcelona's elite (complete with a helipad and museum-worthy art collection).
But with more travelers venturing beyond the well-trodden trail, Empordà is quickly shedding its locals-only reputation and emerging as one of Spain's hotspots. It's a place where an itinerary might include cycling between perfectly preserved 15th-century villages, birdwatching in the Aiguamolls wetlands, wine-tasting at family-run bodegas, and tapping into the region's creative side at ceramic studios and independent art galleries.

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Travel + Leisure

2 hours ago

• Travel + Leisure

10 Postcard-perfect Towns to Visit on the Amalfi Coast, According to Locals

The first time I visited the Amalfi Coast, around 15 years ago, I nearly laughed out loud at the sheer improbability of it. In Positano, I gazed up at the candy-colored buildings stacked on top of each other, hewed into the mountains overlooking the sea, and the majolica-tiled dome of Santa Maria Assunta gleaming in the sunlight. What kind of mad genius could have created such a landscape? It seemed too beautiful to be real. The Amalfi Coast is no stranger to myths and legends, both of the ancient variety and the more modern kind. One claims that the area's name originates from the love story between the demigod Hercules and a nymph named Amalfi. More recently, the coast had another dolce vita heyday in the 1960s, with movie stars like Sophia Loren and Elizabeth Taylor gracing its beaches and towns with their beauty. And its popularity has never really faded. I've returned countless times since that first trip, and on every visit, I find something new to love. But to get a more local perspective, I tapped two of the coast's best-connected insiders: Francesco Sersale, who runs Positano's iconic hotel Le Sirenuse, and Mariella Avino, owner and managing director of the legendary Palazzo Avino in Ravello. Here are our picks for the 10 best Amalfi Coast towns to visit and what to do in each of them. Beach scenes in Positano. Laura Itzkowitz/Travel + Leisure Once a humble fishing village, Positano has become one of the most visited towns on the Amalfi Coast. Built into the mountain, it's a jumble of stairs and narrow lanes lined with shops selling linen clothes, jewelry, and much more. It's also home to a spectacular Roman villa covered in ancient frescoes hidden under the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta. 'If you're staying at Le Sirenuse, my biggest tip is: don't rush. Take your time to enjoy the morning light on your terrace, a long breakfast, a dip in the pool,' Sersale says. 'For lunch, head to Da Adolfo, a Positano institution where bare feet and cold white wine with peaches are part of the ritual. Order the mozzarella grilled on lemon leaves. In the evening, head back to La Sponda for dinner by candlelight—and make sure to catch at least one sunset from Franco's Bar with an ice-cold paloma.' Scenes from around Amalfi. Laura Itzkowitz/Travel + Leisure Once the seat of a powerful maritime republic, Amalfi is still a hub for ferries and other boats arriving from Naples and elsewhere. There's a lovely seafront promenade overlooking the beach, and the main street, Via Lorenzo d'Amalfi, is lined with cafes and shops selling handmade ceramics, summer clothes, and Amalfi paper. One of my favorite things to do here is stop for an espresso and perhaps a pastry at the historic Pasticceria Andrea Pansa, right in the shadow of the Cattedrale di Sant'Andrea. The cathedral, its peaceful cloister, and its ornate crypt are also worth a visit. If you want to stay in Amalfi, you're spoiled for choice. My favorite hotels here are the Hotel Santa Caterina, a legendary member of the Leading Hotels of the World with a Michelin-starred restaurant and a saltwater pool at the beach club; Borgo Santandrea, which was featured on our 2022 It List; and Anantara Convento di Amalfi, featured on the 2024 It List. Scenic images of Ravello. Laura Itzkowitz/Travel + Leisure High up in the mountains, affording fabulous views of the coast, this town is known for its two historic villas, Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone, which are both worth visiting. (The latter is a hotel, but you can buy a ticket to visit the gardens and the famed Infinity Terrace.) For a more under-the-radar gem, Avino recommends the Museo del Corallo. 'Founded by Giorgio Filocamo and now in the hands of his passionate daughter Tiffany, the Museo del Corallo is a wunderkammer of treasures. Historic coral pieces handmade and engraved by Giorgio are blended with beautiful, unique cameos and jewelry pieces,' she explains. Architecture in Praiano. The next town over from Positano, Praiano is smaller and more under-the-radar. 'Praiano is quietly beautiful. Go for an aperitivo at Bar del Sole, where locals gather at sunset, or hike down to Il Pirata for a swim and a drink by the rocks. If you're up for something more active, the Path of the Gods starts nearby,' suggests Sersale. Scenic images in Furore. Laura Itzkowitz/Travel + Leisure Designated one of the Borghi Più Belli d'Italia (the Most Beautiful Villages in Italy), Furore is best known for its picturesque fjord, where the sea has cleaved its way into the towering cliffs, creating a small beach. Check into the new Furore Grand Hotel and be sure to book a table at their Michelin-starred restaurant Bluh Furore for an elegant dinner. The town is also home to the renowned Cantine Marisa Cuomo winery and the family's restaurant, Bacco Furore. Apostolic Church of San Giovanni Battista in Conca dei Marini. Tiny Conca dei Marini is home to an emerald grotto and is the birthplace of the sfogliatella Santa Rosa, the shell-shaped pastry filled with orange-scented ricotta that can be found all over the coast. 'Tucked away in a pretty cove on the beach in Conca dei Marini, La Tonnarella is one of my favorite restaurants on the Amalfi Coast,' Sersale says, calling it 'A rustic, warm, and inviting atmosphere that provides a family-friendly environment and mouth-watering dining experience.' Scenes from the town of Atrani. Laura Itzkowitz/Travel + Leisure The smallest town in Italy by surface area, minuscule Atrani is just a 10-minute stroll from Amalfi—and the walk there will give you fantastic views of both towns. If it looks familiar, that might be because it was the setting for the Netflix series Ripley . With its many narrow alleys and stairs, it also served as inspiration for Dutch artist M.C. Escher. A tribute to him can be seen in a covered passageway in town. Cityscape of Vietri Sul Mare. Laura Itzkowitz/Travel + Leisure 'This is where the coast's ceramic tradition lives on,' Sersale explains. 'Our Emporio Sirenuse 'By the Pool' plate collection was created in collaboration with Scotto, a wonderful artisanal ceramicist based here. 'It's worth visiting for the studios alone—many of which have been run by the same families for generations.' A walking trail in Scala. Cheryl Ramalho/Adobe Stock 'In Scala, I love going to Da Lorenzo, my favorite restaurant outside of the ones at Palazzo Avino! Luca and Gerardo treasure their parents' heritage with joy and dedication. Luca takes care of the service and makes you feel at home from the first step; Gerardo is the soul of the kitchen,' Avino says. 'My favorite dish there (not always available since it depends on the catch of the day) is the tubetti ai totani (squid pasa).' Landscape view of Nerano. Located within the Punta Campanella Natural Marine Reserve, Nerano has hiking trails that will lead you to the pristine Ieranto Bay, which is protected by the Fondo Ambiente Italiano (Italy's National Trust). Sersale calls this town 'A quieter gem, tucked around the corner from the Amalfi Coast,' adding, 'Lo Scoglio is the spot for lunch—simple, exceptional, right on the water. The spaghetti with zucchini is legendary.'

CNN

2 hours ago

• CNN

This country has the best wines in the world for 2025

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Travel + Leisure

2 hours ago

• Travel + Leisure

This Airline Is Making It Easier to Fly to Spain From North America—What to Know

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