I explored the tiny European country with underground cities and little-known islands

REACHING for my umpteenth honey and date fritter, I joked that I would have to use the hotel gym after our incredible meal.
But my host clutched her pearls and gasped: 'No, no. You have to forget about the gym in Malta, my love.'
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Malta derives its name from the Greek word meaning 'place of honey' — fitting, for somewhere I was quickly realising might be Europe's most underrated culinary utopia.
And with underground cities, little-known islands and mysterious temples, I would soon discover this wasn't the only surprise Malta had in store.
As the sun set over Ta' Cicivetta farm, we were prepared a feast of traditional dishes, all using ingredients sourced from the garden we stood in.
This tiny Mediterranean country is smaller than the Isle of Wight, which goes some way in explaining why its food goes under many people's radars; the limited land area means Maltese produce is barely exported, so you have to try it at source.
In one dinner, we could taste the different cultures that have called Malta home over the centuries — Italian in the ricotta parcels and focaccia, Arabian in the date-based sweets and bigilla (a hummus-like dip made from beans), Spanish in the bread rubbed with tomato and drizzled in olive oil.
Equally intriguing, however, was how easy it is to come across a full English on this faraway archipelago.
The British stopped ruling Malta in 1964, but they left behind a love for this breakfast along with other cultural footprints such as UK plugs, driving on the left and speaking English (an official language here alongside Maltese).
I got used to the unexpected sight of red telephone boxes on the streets of cities like Mdina, an ancient fortress which otherwise looked like something out of Game Of Thrones.
Mdina's winding lanes and picturesque plazas were actually used as King's Landing in the HBO series, and our guide, Audrey, would occasionally hold up a scene on her phone to prove it.
But Malta has seen real battles that make Starks vs Lannisters look like a tea party.
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The country was heavily bombed during the Second World War, forcing people to seek refuge in tunnels under the capital, Valletta, built 400 years earlier by knights defending the city against the Ottomans.
We had already been given an introduction to Malta's fascinating past at Odyssey — an immersive history experience complete with special effects and rides — now, prepped with head-torches and hard hats, we explored this amazing subterranean network on a tour with Heritage Malta.
Visitors walking Valletta's grand streets and enjoying €4 Aperol spritzes in its squares seemed to have no idea what lay beneath their feet — understandable, as the city's ground-level attractions are impressive enough.
These include the 16th-century cathedral (home to one of Caravaggio's most famous paintings, The Beheading of St John the Baptist), the Upper Barrakka Gardens with sweeping views over the harbour, and the stunning Grandmaster's Palace, all within walking distance of each other.
In fact, pretty much all distances on this island are extremely manageable, especially from where we stayed in St. Julian's.
It's a great base for exploring Malta by car, and a stay at the Hyatt Regency there makes coming back after a day of activities almost as appealing as heading out.
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The luxury hotel has pristine sea-view rooms with balconies, as well as a heated rooftop pool, spa facilities and a gym (for anyone who does wish to burn off those honey and date fritters).
Its rooms are also triple-glazed so, despite St. Julian's being Malta's nightlife capital, we didn't have to worry about our five-star sleep being disturbed by revellers.
Awe-inspiring
A short drive from the hotel is the port of Cirkewwa, the jumping-off point for visiting Malta's sister islands, Gozo and Comino, and we were lucky enough to have Audrey — a proud Gozitan — showing us around her home isle.
Gozo is an unassuming patch of land with a smaller population than Dover, yet it is home to the awe-inspiring Ggantija temples — megalithic structures that are older than the pyramids.
Its vibrant capital, Victoria, is another must-visit, and on a clear day you can even see Sicily from the ramparts of the city.
There is plenty to do beyond sightseeing.
At Il-Wileg restaurant, you can try your hand at making the authentic Gozitan cheese, which is served all over Malta, under the watchful eye of a local chef — or you can take an idyllic tuk-tuk ride around the island.
We rounded off our day trip with a memorable dinner at L-Istorja, set inside the lavish Kempinski Hotel.
It serves the rich tapestry of Maltese cuisine with a gourmet twist but without the fine-dining cost — so you might as well order the gold-leaf-coated gnocchi and knock back a few Gozitan wines.
Gozo has much of what makes Malta so special — stunning citadels, mind-blowing food, budget-friendly prices, and glittering turquoise sea — though it has noticeably fewer tourists, giving it a more relaxed, off-the-beaten-track feel.
The ferry takes 25 minutes and costs less than €5, and you only pay on the return journey.
Technically, if you chose to stay, the journey would be free — and you could certainly be forgiven for never wanting to leave.

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