
I visited the Jurassic Park-like lagoon right by one of the most beautiful beaches – here's how to get there
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AS I kayak on Florida's Indian River Lagoon, I'm lost for words.
With its ancient mangrove forests and prehistoric-looking pelicans dive-bombing the water, this wouldn't be out of place in Jurassic Park.
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Sands at the New Smyrna Beach
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Have fun paddling in a kayak
Credit: © 2023 Peter Frank Edwards
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The streets on New Smyrna Beach
Credit: Supplied
But then comes the real excitement, as 20-plus dolphins start splashing around just metres away.
And they're having plenty of fun as they jump out of the water and even swim right under me.
This body of water is 156 miles long and the most ecologically diverse estuary in North America.
I'm taking a paddle on an uncharacteristically overcast morning, but it's usually baking hot and packed with even more wildlife, including manatees and all manner of birds.
I'm staying in the city of New Smyrna Beach, on Florida's east coast, which offers something entirely different from what might spring to mind when you first think of the Sunshine State.
It's only about an hour's drive from the theme parks Florida is known for, but presents an entirely different experience.
I'd rented my kayak from the Marine Discovery Center, which offers daily guided tours.
But out of the water, there's plenty more to see in this vibrant beach city, which is popular with surfers and about as laid-back as it gets.
The main boulevard, Flagler Avenue, is peppered with independent shops, bars and restaurants and feels like it's straight out of a Hallmark movie.
I grabbed a spot on the veranda of the Flagler Tavern, where I sipped on a deliciously tall cocktail and explored the menu packed with American seafood specials.
Martin Lewis gives travel advice about checking your passport
It was then just a short stroll back to my hotel, Marriott's SpringHill Suites.
Rooms here are huge and feature walk-in wardrobes, but the real selling point is the fabulous view you get over the Atlantic Ocean and New Smyrna's amazing beach.
Next morning, I was up early to get the sand between my toes.
Om Sunshine Yoga runs community classes on weekend mornings, with all the gear provided.
They even offer paddleboard yoga, although I soon found out my balance is bad enough on dry land — let alone the water.
Gopher tortoises
Even before attempting to get into a downward dog, the beach took my breath away — its fine white sand is set against expansive blue skies which have to be seen to be believed.
In fact, because the sand is so compact, you can even drive on it — so that's how I decided to explore the coastline.
Pedego Electric Bikes offers guided tours to see the three miles of coast at speed.
I took in the sights, sounds and sunshine, while feeling the sea breeze in my hair, as I cycled north to the Smyrna Dunes Park.
Here you can see the striking Ponce de Leon lighthouse — the tallest in the state at 175ft — as well as explore the park with its boardwalks and wildlife.
Try to go at sundown for the best chance to spot gopher tortoises.
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Take a ride on an e-bike on the beach
Credit: Supplied
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The historic Victoria 1883 guesthouse
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Take a dip at the pool at Marriott's SpringHill Suites
Credit: Supplied
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A rocket launch at Cape Canaveral
Credit: Reuters
If you're looking for something more upmarket for dinner, then Riverpark Terrace is a great spot, with a tropical garden and fancy menu.
In fact, it is known as the area's most romantic restaurant.
And love was in the air as I travelled across town and checked into luxury guesthouse Victoria 1883 to continue my stay in New Smyrna Beach — it doubles as a sought-after wedding venue and overlooks the Indian River.
It is also the oldest property in the area and steeped in history but was renovated and opened as a boutique B&B in 2022, with a gorgeous lounge, garden and speakeasy-style bar.
While the urge to relax here was strong, I took a ten-minute stroll to the creative district of Canal Street, where shops sell art, bric-a-brac and homeware, and there is brilliant vinyl at Spinning Records.
At newly refurbished restaurant General Public, I filled up on hearty Southern cuisine then headed to the Sugar Works Distillery for a drink.
This independent bar and distillery has some of the best cocktails I've ever tasted.
They are created using the distillery's spirits, which are largely made from produce within a ten-mile radius.
New Smyrna Beach is a beautiful escape from the bustle of Orlando, so a great way to vary your time during a Florida getaway.
I flew Aer Lingus from Heathrow via Dublin, which gives a sneaky benefit when travelling to the States — you go through pre-clearance US passport control at Dublin airport, meaning you don't have to bother with the faff of security when you touch down on the other side after the long-haul flight.
But it turned out that wouldn't be the only memorable flight on my holiday, as New Smyrna Beach is just 60 miles from the Kennedy Space Center at Cape Canaveral, where rockets are launched into space once or twice every week.
So one of the most unforgettable moments came when, just past midnight, I stood on the beach and watched as a Space X rocket rose through the sky and blasted off into the solar system.
Just like that, this holiday was out of this world.
GO: NEW SMYRNA BEACH
GETTING THERE: Aer Lingus flies six times weekly from Dublin to Orlando, with fares from Heathrow to Orlando via Dublin from £578 return.
See aerlingus.com.
STAYING THERE: Rooms at Victoria 1883 start from £215 per room including breakfast.
See victoria1883.com.
Rooms at SpringHill Suites by Marriott New Smyrna Beach are from £238 including breakfast.
See marriott.com/dabsh.
OUT & ABOUT: Two-hour guided kayak tour, £40 per adult and £26 per child.
See marinediscoverycenter.org.
Pedego Electric Bikes can be rented for £24.50 an hour.
See pedegonsb.com.
MORE INFO: See visitnsbfl.com.
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an hour ago
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Wales Online
7 hours ago
- Wales Online
I visited 'most beautiful village' one hour from Wales — one thing put me off instantly
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Try to picture the quintessential British village crossed with Harry Potter, or imagine what an American sees when they think of a rural British village, and you'd be thinking along the right lines - but still probably not getting close to just how pretty it is. It is charming, cute, fairytale and has a strong claim to be the crown jewel even of an area as beautiful as the Cotswolds. And you can be there in a little over an hour from south-east Wales. The river Coln runs peacefully through the heart of the village, crossed by a couple of low stone bridges. Cows graze on grassland beside the road near the Swan Hotel, which dominates the village centre (and also has what might be the most beautiful beer garden in Britain) and the Bibury Trout Farm breeds fish that are sold and eaten in restaurants all over the Cotswolds (including Jeremy Clarkson's pub, The Farmer's Dog — you can read about my visit here). Arlington Row is one of the most photographed streets in the country (Image: Getty ) Article continues below Arlington Row is a row of weavers' cottages built of local stone next to the River Coln (Image: Getty ) Bibury's real showstopper is Arlington Row, a row of cottages originally built of local stone in 1380 next to the River Coln as a monastic wool store before being converted to weavers' cottages in the 17th century. It is probably the most photographed row of houses in the Cotswolds, possibly even the UK. Life's stresses melt away as you walk the narrow road (also called Awkward Hill) beside the cottages, first crossing a narrow stone bridge over the river, and trying to tread the equally fine line of respecting the fact that these are people's homes while marvelling at how gorgeous they are. Hopefully, the people lucky enough to live here enjoy the fact that, like Buckingham Palace, thousands of people take pictures of their homes every day. The Swan Hotel is the most imposing building in the centre of Bibury (Image: Getty ) The beer garden of the Swan Hotel, surrounded by the gentle waters of the river Coln (Image: Steffan Rhys ) And that brings me to the one thing about Bibury that is a bit off-putting: the number of tourists here is way out of proportion to the size of the village and its ability to cope with them. The 600 or so people who live here are sharing these narrow lanes and pretty fields with coaches, tour groups and day-trippers every day — thousands of them, Express reports. One resident, Lynn Edward, who has lived in Bibury for six years, told The Guardian earlier this year: "We have such a beautiful place that we want to share, but the level of tourism and the hordes of people that come has just made it entirely unpleasant, and the infrastructure doesn't really cope with it. "All they want to do is come and take a photograph. They don't stay in the village. They don't linger enough to really ingest the beauty and historic value of the place. It's literally, I think, to take a selfie." Cars are parked in long lines on the main road through Bibury, beside the river Coln (Image: Steffan Rhys ) And people are very keen to grab a photo of the scene for the memories (and social media channels) (Image: Getty ) I knew in advance that Bibury was a tourist attraction — and obviously I was here as a tourist. But I didn't appreciate just how many people there would be on a random weekday afternoon. But it was obvious even before I got to the village centre, with groups of tourists strolling in the middle of the road en route, long lines of parked cars beside the river, several different languages from all over the world to be heard and people of all nationalities standing on Bibury's pretty stone bridges to grab a selfie. Some of them were not especially inclined to bother moving when it was clear others wanted to get across, instead taking their time to get that perfect shot for Instagram — and some claim the rocketing number of visitors to Bibury is down to the boom in travel and tourism influencers on social media. There is heavy traffic along the narrow lanes of Bibury, despite how small the village is (Image: Steffan Rhys ) A relentless stream of tourists walks beside the cottages on Arlington Row (Image: Steffan Rhys ) There's even a large car park on the outskirts of the village, where visitors are charged £5 to park before walking into the heart of the village. There is enough space for 300 cars but villagers say even this is not enough on some days. The narrow lane between the car park and the village is a tight squeeze when trying to cope with two-way traffic as well as all the tourists on foot. While many would assume that such a large number of tourists would also bring a significant economic benefit, people in the village don't seem convinced that's the case. I visited the 'prettiest village in England' and tried to be respectful while enjoying its beauty (Image: Steffan Rhys ) Victoria Summerley, a journalist and author who has lived there since 2012, says: "[The villagers] would say [the tourists] don't put any money into the village." It is clearly a difficult balance. While tourism can bring benefits and people are often proud to share the beauty of where they live with visitors, it is understandable that villagers who call Bibury home are frustrated by the extent to which it has now become a tourist attraction. It is undoubtedly a staggeringly beautiful place, and lives up to its billing as "the most beautiful village in England", even considering the amount of competition in the Cotswolds alone. So if you do visit, please try and be as respectful as possible of the people who live here. Things to do in Bibury Arlington Row A row of cottages originally built of local stone in 1380, next to the River Coln, is probably the most photographed street in the Cotswolds, possibly even the country. A short circular route runs from the Swan Hotel to the cottages and back along a track to the hotel. Article continues below Bibury Trout Farm Bibury Trout Farm is one of Britain's oldest trout farms. Founded in 1902, you will find its trout on the menu in restaurants around the Cotswolds. It is open to the public while being a working trout farm producing hundreds of thousands of trout (brown, blue and rainbow) a year. It also has an on-site smokery. You can buy the trout on site and in the village shop. Entry to the farm costs £9 for adults. Swan Hotel The beautiful Swan Hotel is perhaps the most prominent building in Bibury, its walls covered in greenery. You can stay here or simply book a table for lunch or dinner. It also has arguably the most beautiful beer garden in Britain, with deckchairs set almost on an island surrounded by the tranquil River Coln. Eleven Bibury With interiors designed by Laurence Llewelyn-Bowen, Eleven Bibury is a mixture of cafe, restaurant, art space and shared working space just across the main road from the river. Grab a brunch, a slice of cake or coffee and escape the crowds of tourists outside.