Food fusion or authenticity? Dubai-based Lebanese chef weighs in
Salam El Baba, a Lebanese chef, is making quite an impact on Dubai's food and beverage industry. Born in Ghana, she grew up surrounded by rich flavours and a deep appreciation for home-cooked meals. Her mother, a natural host and talented cook, instilled in her the belief that food is more than sustenance—it's an experience.
After earning a degree in Business and Corporate Finance from the American University of Beirut, Salam built a career as a market and economic analyst in Dubai's corporate world, specialising in finance and the oil and gas industry. But her true passion always led back to the kitchen. She was always searching for that eureka moment—the perfect food item to build a restaurant around and share with everyone. She finally found it when she successfully made her first birria (traditional Mexican stew).
Her culinary journey started as a personal exploration, testing recipes, hosting friends, and running food pop-ups in Beirut. When she discovered birria tacos online, she became obsessed with perfecting them, eventually quitting her corporate job to travel to Mexico and immerse herself in the country's street food culture. With three-four years in the F&B industry, Salam has since carved a space for herself, covering Dubai's food scene by building Tacosita as a community-driven brand that brings authentic Mexican flavors to the region.
In a chat with City Times, Chef Salam talks about her influences and whether food fusions are even necessary.
Love for Mexican flavours
Having grown up in Ghana, Salam enjoyed a variety of local foods that shaped her palate and culinary preferences. She believes that whenever she creates a dish, the closer it gets to her childhood, the more satisfied she is with the results. She says, "People ask if I learned to cook from my mother, but her always says, "I didn't teach her how to cook; I taught her how to eat."
When asked about her inspiration for choosing tacos as the focus of her restaurant, Salam says, "The salsa roja and the chili oil we serve at Tacosita are very Mexican, but they're so similar to the red sauce and shito I had when I was a kid in Ghana. Maybe that's why I love Mexican flavours."
Her signature dish, birria, is a mouthful of flavour and feeling. "It's soft meat in a crunchy tortilla and is moreish when you dip it in the consomé," she describes. "It's messy fingers and a mix of sauces in every bite. The moment you have birria, you remember why you love Mexican food."
Dubai's dining scene
Opening a restaurant in Dubai came with challenges, particularly the lack of operational experience or professional mentorship. It was a lot of trial and error, Salam says, "but I was mainly lucky to have partnered with chef Tarek; he was an incredible support when things were hard and today he is a pillar of our hospitality company."
Salam is excited about Dubai's evolving food scene. "This shift away from imported brands to homegrown concepts is a testament to the city enabling us to create more and take more risks in the industry," she said. "Street food will always be an organic result of society growing in a healthy way. The more real the city is, the more diverse its population, the cooler its food scene and street food offerings."
Food fusion: Yay or nay?
On fusion cuisine, Salam believes, "If an Indian, an Egyptian, and a Syrian guy are roommates, and their kitchen pantry has all kinds of ingredients from their respective countries that result in a tasty dish—one that their neighbours start making, and then, a few years later, becomes a staple—then that's awesome. But any other form of forced fusion, I don't have any comments on."
Despite the growing food scene in Dubai, Salam insists there's no need for Arabic flavours in her tacos. "There is no need for such fusion."
When asked about how she balances a restaurant and personal life, she said, "I don't. In fact, my 2025 resolution is to give myself a bit more time to take care of my personal life so I can keep growing Tacosita. To be honest, I am in awe of all women that manage an entire family life and a full career in hospitality. It's nothing short of impressive."
Beyond her work, Salam is an avid traveller and a passionate reader, drawn to Japanese and Korean literature. She sees food as a sensory experience that connects people to places, memories, and emotions. Inspired by the similarities between Mexican and Ghanaian cuisines—both deeply rooted in fermentation, sauces, and bold flavours—her mission is to make people feel something with every bite.
Her favorite meal to cook at home? "Instant noodles (Nongshim - spicy) with little water, a sachet of seasoning," she says, adding that a knob of butter is essential for more creaminess.
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