
As an Irish person in Australia there is one question I'm always asked
'Are you staying or going?' It's the sort of question someone asks you when you're fretting indecisively inside the half-open door of a pub on a very cold Sunday afternoon. They were peacefully enjoying their carvery, but now they're getting slapped on the back of the neck by a frozen, metallic wind and your indecision is an unpleasant distraction.
It isn't entirely a real question; it's not the sort that seeks an answer.
Really, it is a statement. A nudge. A prompt for you to go out or come in, but to cease loitering in liminal places, letting in the chill and making people uncomfortable.
As an
emigrant
to
Australia
, and an Irish immigrant in Australia, I have been asked this question in countless contexts since the big move. My cat's vet asked, 'Are you staying or going?' when she wanted to know which vaccinations the cat might need. My aunt and uncle asked, 'Are you staying or going?' because they might hope we'd come home, but also because it is anathema to their generation to be always gallivanting over the earth and not settling in one place to lead a meaningful and happy life amid familiar people and familiar surroundings. My brother wonders (but is too polite to ask), 'Are you staying or going?' because he worries, as a good brother generally must, that I'm far away and have lived in three countries in the past eight years. I imagine he wonders whether this scenario emerges from a desire to live in this way, or a necessity to do so.
READ MORE
As a person living in Canberra, the Australian capital, where politics is done but culture is mostly a government initiative rather than an organic and emergent feature of life the way it is in other capital cities, transience is standard. People in the military are here for temporary postings. They stay a year or so and then they move on. Public servants do this too. Diplomats and politicians, spooks and consultants and journalists and attachés. While it does, of course, have a fixed population, many of whom provide services to and for the more transient inhabitants of Canberra, the city is considered by many Australians as an unexciting place to live.
[
Emigration: 'From a distance, I have relearned how to be Irish'
Opens in new window
]
At a bit over two hours' drive away, Sydney is the place those with time and means escape to at every opportunity. The centre of Canberra empties out at weekends and on holidays. When you meet a new person here, they generally presume you're not here forever.
For this reason, it can be a challenging place to put down roots.
An Irish person I was chatting with once referred to the city as 'a backwater', which I found interesting. 'Who would want to live there?' he asked me, scoffing pompously, asking another question that isn't a question. 'Well,' I considered, 'anyone who perhaps wants to live in decent, affordable rental accommodation without housemates in their 30s. Anyone who is weary of the frenzied overcrowding in big European cities with terrible, oversubscribed public services, or who wants a safe place where it's possible to both work and raise children. Anyone who wants to access medical care when they need it or to see a GP who remembers them each time they go in. Or anyone who wants a quiet, slow pace of life. Anyone like that, really.'
Yet, 'Are you staying or going?' isn't just an annoying question that other people ask you as an emigrant. It's the annoying question that you ask yourself. Unless things at 'home' (wherever a person's home may be) are very bad indeed, nobody thinks to ask a person who has always lived in their native country whether they'll stay there. Most people stay vaguely where they originate unless there's a powerful external reason to go. The Famine did it for us, as have consecutive crises and economic downturns and incompetent governments.
[
These days, the emigration experience is both alien and familiar at the same time
Opens in new window
]
Once you've gone, though, it's another matter. There will always be the people who want you home again, but the act of leaving once generates the possibility of leaving again. If you can leave home, you can leave anywhere. You can, theoretically speaking, live anywhere if you meet the criteria and they'll let you in (easier said than done, of course, but you get my point).
The real upheaval of emigration is the way that it reorients your relationship to where you live and have lived. When my grandfather's father, who was born in Australia to Irish parents, made the decision along with his younger brother to return to Ireland, it was a one-way trip. They would have understood the irrevocable magnitude of that decision.
Then, you emigrated once, and you lived out that decision no matter what it meant for you. The people you left behind were people you would probably never see again.
Now, things are different. Many Irish people who have emigrated to Australia in previous waves have done so with every intention of coming home again, and a lot of them did. We accept a stint in Australia as an Irish rite of passage, but we feel tender about those who don't return.
The present wave going to Australia have little incentive to come home again, sadly.
[
Ireland's grocery prices are still soaring. How can that be?
Opens in new window
]
Modern living offers no permanence. No job stability that resembles anything like that our parents had. A
cost of living
all over the western world that limits people's option to live where they might ideally choose, whether that place is 'home' or not. But I have been long enough in Australia now to feel the question simmering with an urgency it didn't hold before – 'Am I staying or going?'
At some point, if the intention is to settle, then you have to start doing that. If it isn't, then you need to consider what life might look like in two or more years, what you'd like to be doing with it, and what is achievable in your circumstances.
Eventually, it stops being a nudge and becomes a real question in need of a serious answer.
Sign up to The Irish Times Abroad newsletter
for Irish-connected people around the world. Here you'll find readers' stories of their lives overseas, plus news, business, sports, opinion, culture and lifestyle journalism relevant to Irish people around the world
If you live overseas and would like to share your experience with Irish Times Abroad, you can use the form below, or email
abroad@irishtimes.com
with a little information about you and what you do. Thank you

Try Our AI Features
Explore what Daily8 AI can do for you:
Comments
No comments yet...
Related Articles


Irish Times
an hour ago
- Irish Times
Dublin Airport will eventually exceed 40 million passengers a year, Minister for Transport predicts
Imposing annual passenger caps on Dublin Airport will be 'arbitrary' as even the 40 million cap being sought by airport operator DAA will be surpassed within a short period, Minister for Transport Darragh O'Brien says. The cap of 32 million passengers a year, which has been in place since 2008, was breached in 2023 and 2024. Mr O'Brien said the number of passengers passing through the airport was likely to exceed 36 million this year. He said it was a clear aim in the Programme for Government to end the restriction on passenger numbers. READ MORE 'I want to see the cap in Dublin Airport removed. I think any artificial stifling of growth within Dublin Airport, it would be counterproductive for the country,' he said. Last week, Fingal County Council, which is the local authority with responsibility for the airport, issued an enforcement notice that gave DAA a two-year period to comply with the planning conditions imposed by An Bord Pleanála in 2008. However, there is a High Court-imposed stay pending the outcome of proceedings taking by a number of airlines against the cap. Mr O'Brien said that stay was likely to remain until the second half of next year. He said the Government was now working on a new National Aviation Policy to address the issues of the volume of traffic around the State's main airport hub. He said a key ruling by An Bord Pleanála on night flights at the airport – expected within weeks – would be critical. At present no flights are allowed to take off from or land on the north runway between 11pm and 7am. The night-time movements of aircraft in the airport are restricted to 65 overall. DAA has applied for those restrictions to be eased and there is expectation that aircraft will be allowed on the north runway between 6am and midnight daily. This change has been strongly opposed by residents living in St Margaret's and The Ward, two communities located at the perimeter of the airport. Mr O'Brien, a TD for the constituency, said he was very conscious of the concerns of those communities and the challenges they faced. 'I've been at pains to say to DAA to operate under the good neighbour principle,' he said. He said some people in the St Margaret's area were in effect living right beside the runway. He said the airport should improve its voluntary purchase package as the impact was significant on a small number of households. 'They can't be forgotten,' he said. However, Mr O'Brien said the airport needed to expand and that included passenger numbers. He said if decision on night flights was in favour of expanding the hours then that would help passenger numbers grow. 'A total of 3 per cent of GDP comes from activity around the airport campus. It's a critical driver for economic growth, and supports about 20,000 jobs directly and about 130,000 indirect jobs.' He said basing numbers on forward projections over 10 years the number of passengers would exceed 40 million each year before then. 'One should ask the question, if DAA applies for a passenger cap of 40 million how long will that last? Is that cap going to be [surpassed]? Therefore should you have an arbitrary cap?' Mr O'Brien also said he had consulted Attorney General Rossa Fanning and may bring forward legislation to prevent what he sees as overly restrictive limits. He said the cap was put in 2008 as a response to inadequate transport infrastructure at the airport. He said the situation had changed since then, with a change in terms of roads, public transport and access.


Irish Times
an hour ago
- Irish Times
Ireland's niche tour guides: Holidays for foodies, newlyweds and baby-boomers
For US couple Mollie Lyons and Ryan McGrady, hopping from one microbrewery to the next while on a tailored bus tour offered a perfect opportunity to elope. The Pennsylvanians wed overlooking Dunquin pier in Co Kerry , with their parents as the only guests. They poured pints in Páidí Ó Sé's pub and celebrated in 'some of Dingle's finest establishments afterwards over a three-day tour', Mia Tobin recalls of what was, for her, a standout trip in April. It is not the only quirky story that Tobin of Brewery Hops shares with The Irish Times. Her firm is but one of a proliferation of small-bus tour companies established over recent years that offer visitors a more intimate, experiential and tailor-made holiday in Ireland. A windy wedding: Mollie Lyons, Ryan McGrady and tour guide Mia Tobin at Dunquin. With the Central Statistics Office tourism numbers pointing to a continuing decline in inbound visitors, some operators are seeking to stay ahead in a toughening climate by operating in a niche market. READ MORE Such companies provide a welcome addition to the tourism sector's portfolio of guided holidays, according to Fáilte Ireland and, it says, 'they complement rather than compete with larger coach operators, offering diversity in the market and helping to increase dwell-time in destinations'. 'The growth of boutique tours reflects evolving visitor preferences for more immersive tours and often appeal to culturally curious travellers seeking authentic, off-the-beaten-path experiences,' says Paul Keeley, director of regional development, Fáilte Ireland. For Tobin, the quirkiness of these smaller tour groups has included couples getting engaged and old college friends enjoying reunions. She is a Tipperary native and became smitten by the potential of a tourism career while working for a tour company in the wilds of the Yukon in northern Canada. 'By the time I came back home, I had decided to leave the corporate world and never wear a suit again,' she says. Tobin started working with Vagabond Tours in Co Wicklow in 2011 and stayed with them for seven seasons while slowly developing Brewery Hops and going full-time in 2018. 'My customers are mostly couples and friends from North America, typically aged from 40 to 70, culturally curious and with a love of food and drink,' she says. 'They are happy to get off the beaten tour track to meet the local producer and taste their craft produce.' However, day-to-day issues such as rising fuel and accommodation costs, and even the closure of many cafes and restaurants on Mondays and Tuesdays, can cause challenges, she says. Parking can prove difficult depending on the area, while 'Kerry welcomes buses, you are fined in Galway city if you stay over an hour'. Larry Coady, of Anam Croí, talks about Charles Fort at Kinsale Harbour. It was during Covid that Tobin's former colleague at Vagabond Tours, Larry Coady, who had worked as the company's general manager, began to develop his small tours concept, Anam Croí. After being laid off during Covid 'the seed germinated' for his business, which began in 2022 and offers tours for a maximum of 13 people. 'Many of our clients are pretty seasoned travellers. They may have previously done coach tours and are now looking for a more personal experience.' He says 'accessibility to places, unreachable by big coaches, allows [them] to reach some hidden gems while avoiding the crowds at major visitor attractions'. Like with many small tour groups, the majority of Anam Croí's clients are North American and Australian, with 'baby boomers' – people born between 1946 to 1964 – encompassing the main age profile. A group on an Anam Croí tour 'People are increasingly attracted by our scenery as well as the culture, heritage and, of course, the people. Most are pleasantly surprised and blown away by the high quality and freshness of our food,' he says. Discovering familial roots remains a factor, albeit one that is tapering off, Coady says. Rob Rankin's Vagabond Tours has a fleet of 25 small buses on the road When Scottish native Rob Rankin started Vagabond Tours with one Land Rover pulling a trailer in 2002, his friends thought he was mad. Today, Vagabond and Driftwood Tours, based in Greystones, has a fleet of 25 small buses on the road. 'We were the first multi-activity adventure tour company here, blending the outdoors with culture and history as part of a scheduled experience,' Rankin says. He says Vagabond's pioneering concept had led to at least 10 of his former guides having started their own specialised bus tour companies, with a good working relationship with all of them. 'When we started out in 2002, there was very little infrastructure here for outdoor leisure activities. There were no greenways, no bike-hire companies, for example. While land access for hiking can still be a problem, Fáilte Ireland has done really good work over recent years,' he says. He stresses that 'farmers have every right to protect their lands and not be exposed to insurance claims', but that 'more marked trails would, on the other hand, be insured by government and provide an important educational resource for these tour companies'. Rankin says the 'essence of what people want has not changed much since we started. They are still looking for an authentic and quality experience of Ireland, with a relaxed social element'. All three operators are happy to confirm the Trump factor has not been an issue to date 'fingers crossed'. Although tellingly, Tobin says, 'return guests who want to come back next year have said their equity in stocks has plummeted, which is the fund for the Ireland trip'. 'If there is a large economic recession in the US, we will certainly feel the repercussions in tourism in 2026,' she says.


Irish Times
an hour ago
- Irish Times
We like to romanticise Ireland's past, but too much remembering could be bad for us
There is no comparison between the Provisional IRA and the Irish Volunteers who staged the Easter Rising in 1916. Patrick Pearse's generation of republicans never set off bombs in crowded pubs or on shopping streets , indiscriminately murdering civilians. They never pulled people out of vehicles and shot them dead because they were Protestants . But there is one parallel that Gerry Adams was able to point to at his successful defamation case against the BBC : the Rising had no democratic legitimacy. When the issue of the Provisional movement's lack of electoral mandate for 'atrocities' was mentioned in court, Adams replied : 'Pádraig Pearse. James Connolly. The men and women who went out in 1916, they had no mandate for what they were doing.' Adams has a point, but it doesn't reflect well on the IRA of which he has always denied being a part. It reflects poorly on an ill-thought-out insurrection that the State now publicly reveres above any other episode in Ireland's journey to independence. Twenty years ago, then-taoiseach Bertie Ahern announced the reinstatement of an Easter Monday military parade at the General Post Office in Dublin. He said there was a need to 'reclaim' 1916 from hardline nationalists. But two decades on, has the move backfired? READ MORE Fr Séamus Murphy, who teaches philosophy at Loyola University Chicago, believes so. 'I don't demand that the State disown the men of 1916. But it has to stop praising them and calling their action the foundation of the State,' Murphy says. The Jesuit priest explores the question further in a new book Confronting the Irish Past: The 1912-1923 Decade in Light of the 1998 Good Friday Agreement. It is an unusual work in that it tries to bring philosophical insights to bear on Irish history. Murphy, who has written extensively on just war theory and Irish neutrality, asks some deep questions about the ethics of commemoration: What duties do we have to our ancestors? How much commemoration is too much? Is there a hierarchy of 'emotional hurt' from historical events? Murphy examines the work of the German Jewish political philosopher Hannah Arendt , who believed history 'needed not so much to be explained as to be confronted'. This meant, among other things, acknowledging the 'ongoing impact' of events – and how political violence leaves a scar on society that can be unpicked in the future. Too much remembering can have negative effects on a population. In Northern Ireland , people were horrified at the recent clashes with police officers during street protests. But the thuggery was not entirely surprising in a province where two communities have been glorifying acts of violence for decades. Elsewhere in the world, commemoration of historical victimhood can be weaponised to commit crimes against humanity. 'It's a human thing. We remember our people's sufferings, while being indifferent to those of others, including the sufferings our tribe or nation inflict on the others. In the latter case, we can be inclined to say: they had it coming, they deserved it,' says Murphy. Ultimately, the question arises: who is history meant to serve – the living or the dead? 'It is bad for us to behave in the present as if our ancestors, dead grandparents, etc, no longer mattered in any sense. It would be treating them with contempt. Same goes for how we behave in the present with respect to how it would likely affect future generations,' says Murphy. But we should not be afraid to adapt history 'for the needs of the living'. That includes foregrounding the celebration of those events that pave the way for the future we wish to see. 'The nationalist side – our people – has to acknowledge that, just as Sinn Féin /IRA's political enemy in Northern Ireland from the 1970s to today was the SDLP – or any other party with a significant nationalist following – so the political target of the 1916 Rising was not the British government or the Ulster unionists but the Home Rule party,' says Murphy. ' John Redmond and the Home Rule party were moving, slowly, to doing a Bertie Ahern and signing a Good Friday Agreement, recognising that unionists couldn't be compelled into a united Ireland. The Rising is the scream of rage against that. We can't – without engaging in massive pretence – claim to endorse the Rising and the Good Friday Agreement with no qualification: they contradict each other at several points.' Here lies a test for all of us. To create a shared future on this island, and internationally, we must move beyond uncritically celebrating the actions of any particular tribe. Standing in our way is an imagined moral duty to people who are long dead and who had their own flaws. Surely our overriding moral duty is for the living? [ How Tuam, synonymous with a dark side of Irish history, can finally 'do the right thing' Opens in new window ] WB Yeats 's line 'Was it for this ... that all that blood was shed?' has an emotional force in debates on Ireland's future. But, says Murphy, 'just as you shouldn't feel compelled by your dead parents' wish that you should become a neurosurgeon – or a priest – so a political agenda of a previous generation cannot compel today's political action. Your parents have no right to say – adapting Yeats – to you, if you choose to be a journalist rather than what they wanted: was it for this that we made all those sacrifices?'