'Not bad at all': Japan expert taste-tests stockpiled rice as reserves hit shelves
TOKYO -- The Japanese government has started selling its stockpiled rice through negotiated contracts in an effort to curb the rising price of the staple, which has sparked public interest in the quality of old rice, particularly its taste.
It's rare for stockpiled rice, released only in response to disasters, to enter the market, making this the first time for it to be used to control prices. And because it is rarely released, consumers don't often get a chance to taste it.
The impression of old rice having poor flavor is deeply rooted. Yuichiro Tamaki, leader of the opposition Democratic Party for the People (DPFP), commented that stockpiled rice "after a year becomes something fit for animal feed," apparently echoing this negative perception.
But how much does the quality of rice actually decline over time? The Mainichi Shimbun asked a food scientist and a major rice cooker manufacturer to find out.
'Not bad,' says expert
"Of course, freshly harvested rice tastes best. But older rice isn't bad at all," said Toshiaki Mitsui, a specially appointed professor at Niigata University who teaches molecular biology. On May 29, he taste-tested rice harvested in 2024, 2022 and 2020 -- all from the same region and freshly milled.
"The new rice from 2024 has an excellent aroma, chewy texture and refined sweetness. Older rice can be a bit dry and lose some of its luster. But I couldn't tell the difference between the 2022 and 2020 rice. While the fragrance is fading, there was no unpleasant smell."
According to Mitsui, the fat found on the outer surface of rice oxidizes and produces compounds like hexanal over time, which can cause a so-called "old rice smell" when cooked.
However, in his actual tests, even rice from five years ago apparently tasted like ordinary rice. "The outer layer is removed when the rice is milled, and more importantly, it all depends on how it is stored. I've heard that government stockpiles are kept at low temperatures with carefully controlled humidity, so there shouldn't be any issue," he explained.
'Livestock are eating well'
Rice prices remain high. Despite the situation, consumers likely want to continue enjoying tasty rice as part of their daily meals.
Agriculture minister Shinjiro Koizumi, who is overseeing the effort to bring down rice prices, criticized Tamaki's "animal feed" comment as "a bit disappointing," though the comment itself is technically true.
Stockpiled rice is generally sold for animal feed if it is stored for more than five years. Of the 300,000 metric tons now being released by the government through negotiated contracts, 100,000 tons were harvested in 2021 and 200,000 tons in 2022. Tamaki's comment referred to this.
Tamaki held a speech on the streets that same evening after the animal feed remark, and said, "That's why I don't think even 1,800 yen (about $13) for 5 kilograms is cheap."
While the term "animal feed" may evoke the image of rice of a severely degraded quality, Mitsui laughed and said, "You could say that Japanese livestock (that are being fed stockpiled rice) are actually eating pretty well." He added, "Older rice can still taste really good. Why not think of it as a rare opportunity and enjoy it?"
How to cook old rice according to rice cooker manufacturer
Japanese rice cookers have made notable progress in recent years. Major brands now boast features that allow even older rice to be cooked deliciously. Milling technology is also said to have advanced significantly.
Osaka-based Zojirushi Corp., a major rice cooker and kitchen appliance manufacturer, advises on its website that "since older rice contains less moisture, it's best to add a little more water when cooking."
At the same time, scrubbing the rice too hard due to worries over the quality of old grains is apparently not recommended. Older rice tends to be drier and more fragile, making it more likely to crack when washed vigorously.
A representative from the company's public relations department said, "In the past, people were told to scrub the rice, but now with advanced milling technology, a light rinse is enough. You don't need to worry that much just because it's old rice."
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