The symbolism behind traditional Juneteenth foods—from barbecue to hibiscus
'When I think of [Juneteenth], I think about family,' says Tommie Boudreaux, a member of the African American Heritage Committee of the Galveston Historical Foundation and one of the authors of Lost Restaurants of Galveston's African American Community. 'We had a lot of gatherings [with] barbecue, cakes, pies—all of it, and it was all homemade,' she says. 'Everybody would bring something there. The ladies would really pride themselves on the food they prepared.'
But food isn't just a form of substance when it comes to Juneteenth celebrations. Here's the backstory behind some of the holiday's staples. It's common for Black-owned businesses to come out and serve food to locals during Juneteenth celebrations. Photograph By Suzanne Stein/Redux
Juneteenth is when Southern staples shine their brightest, and soul food has always been front and center.
Barbecues in particular have long been a way African Americans show fellowship in celebrating life's milestones. These are times when family and loved ones come together, usually over music and delicious food, with barbecued delicacies front and center—and Juneteenth is no different.
Pork ribs. Roasted chicken. Hot links. All of them are bathed in a smoky barbeque sauce.
Boudreaux notes that the traditions focused on meat stem from when slaves were given animal scraps as food and had to make the most of them. And altar of symbolic foods—including beets, strawberries, watermelon, yams, and hibiscus tea—during a Juneteenth Ritual of Remembrance in Oakland, California on June 10, 2017. Photograph By Jim Wilson/The New York Times/Redux
'These meats were things that the enslaver didn't eat,' she explains. 'Our people were able to make it flavorful to serve it to our families. Chitlins. Hog maw. It's all become a delicacy now.'
The color red is also a common theme amongst Juneteenth food spreads, as it symbolizes the bloodshed of enslaved peoples in the fight for freedom, as well as their resilience, sacrifice, and strength. It was also thought to have high spiritual value among the Yoruba people of Nigeria, Benin, and Togo, as well as the Kongo of Angola, the Democratic Republic of Congo, and Gabon, from which many enslaved Africans originated. Red represents how enslaved people carried on African traditions into present-day culture, keeping them alive for generations to come.
(Why Juneteenth is a celebration of hope.)
For this reason, watermelon is also often associated with the holiday and used to signify newly found freedom. Many newly freed Black farmers grew and sold the crop as a way to support themselves. It represented a chance at self-efficacy while navigating their new landscape of freedom.
Seasonal fruits like strawberries are also a common sight in food spreads, as are drinks like strawberry lemonade. Hibiscus tea is also often served, as the plant is native to West Africa and was brought to the Americas during the transatlantic slave trade. Carrying on Juneteenth's culinary traditions
Aside from the food traditions seen across tables, one of the biggest markers of Juneteenth is the chance to pass down family recipes. For a lot of African Americans, these culinary heirlooms were never written down, only shared in the kitchen.
'Lots of those things are handed down year after year,' Boudreaux explains. 'We [were] taught from [one of our elders] and just mimicked what they were doing.'
Overall, being in community with family and friends is what is most important about the holiday, and delicious food is an added bonus that brings people together.
'If it's good food, it's comfort,' says Boudreaux. 'It's something different than going to a restaurant to order a steak. It's the comfort you get from sitting at the dining table and eating with your family.'
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