Bordeaux Wine Vintage 2024 – Varied, Challenging, Aromatic, Precise
Cabernet Franc grapes at Château Angélus, Bordeaux, France
How fares Bordeaux wine vintage of 2024? That answer differa depending on who and where you ask, and whether you mean now or in the future.
'It's called the Olympic vintage, because to go to the Olympic Games you have to work very hard,' explained Pierre Courdurié of Clos de Labrie in Saint-Émilion.
Weather paints part of the signature for each wine vintage, and a graphic from Cháteau La Lagune on the left bank of the Gironde Estuary tells a story. Rainfall was significantly higher than average during the months of February, March and May of 2024, while temperatures were higher than average during February, March and April. These conditions were conducive to diseases such mildew and botrytis, which winemakers resist by treating vines or removing leaves to improve air circulation. This focused work required additional labor and time, which larger estates had better capacities to fund.
'It was the vintage of great terroirs,' said winemaker Vincent Priou of Château Petit Village and Cháteau Beuregard in Pomerol on the right bank, Bordeaux. He added that it was likely the most challenging vintage he has faced in his 34 years of experience.
Château Beauregard, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France
There was frost for four days between April 19 and 23rd, followed by mildew and coulure on flowers in early June. These conditions resulted in some producers losing a quarter of their grapes.
When storms arrived at the end of August, the choice of when to harvest turned critical.
'You had to be precise because it rained. You had to be sure the grapes were ripe,' Courdurié emphasized.
Caroline Techeyney, owner or Vignobles Jade, agreed. 'There were thunderstorms and a lot of rain at key moments in the vines' growth. September was very complicated. We try to pick at the right maturity—not too ripe and not underripe.'
More grapes were lost when they reached the winery after harvest. After inspection, defective grapes were discarded at a sorting table and perhaps again via technology such as laser optical or densimetric sorting equipment.
'Vinify the good plots correctly and then discard what's not right,' stated Thomas Peré, wine quality director for the wine properties of Pierre Jean Larraque. 'It's not a vintage of the century, but there are still some reds where we've managed to bring them to a good level and get some nice results.'
Courdurié emphasized that a decade and a half ago most winemakers would not have had the technological tools to sort grapes as precisely as now. That point highlights that those who cannot afford such technology are at a disadvantage for producing quality wine after the challenging conditions of 2024.
Winery owners Pierre Courdurié (right) of Croix de Labrie and Jean-Charles Joris of Chateau La Marzelle
'2024 was an extremely costly vintage to produce,' wrote Colin Hay of The Drinks Business publication. Undoubtedly those lacking financial resources to fund adequate staff or equipment were at greater risk.
Wine producers responded as best they could to challenges.
'A fireman doesn't complain about going to the fire,' said Benjamin Laforet from Château Angélus in Saint-Émilion.
After picking, vinification was gentle and at low temperatures for many producers, who also chose to steer clear of using excessive new oak for aging.
Apart from the physical demands of tending vines, what wine quality resulted?
First, there is little consistency across the region, meaning the vintage is not heterogeneous.
'Between the unpredictable weather, the hail, and the disease pressure—we've seen very different ripening times depending on the appellation,' explained Thomas Peré.
'Across the Gironde region, it's very different. Even within each region, it's different. To say that 2024 is an excellent vintage or a bad vintage is not true. Some vineyards found it difficult. For others it was typical, and for others it was very good. It will be a matter of searching each region for the gems that have come out well.'
Second, it was a vintage for lightness in terms of body, as well as in levels of alcohol.
'It wasn't a vintage for making powerful wines, because the climate wasn't right for making such intensity,' explained Yann Monties, technical director of Château La Dominique in Saint-Émilion.
Henri Parent, co-owner of Château Le Gay and Château La Violette in Pomerol, Bordeaux
Pierre Courdurié compared it to the stellar and benchmark vintage of 2022.
'It doesn't have the density on the palate and we don't have very powerful tannins compared to 2022. We're not going to see wines that are ostentatious.'
Many wines I sampled in April include alcohol levels that range between 12.5% and 13.5%. At one individual tasting of 40 wines from different châteaux, the highest alcohol level was 13.7%. This lower alcohol, incidentally or coincidentally, pairs with current consumer demand trends.
Third, many aromatics are perfumed and pronounced to a higher degree than any vintage during the past decade. There is semblance to Beaujolais crus, though with greater structure. Many I sampled included unusually fine, delicate, precise and attractive aromas.
'We have aromatics that are just superior to 2022,' Courdurié of Clos de Labrie noted. 'We kept the bright, vibrant side of the aromatics.'
'The wines of the 2024 vintage are distinguished by remarkable tension and delicate aromatic expression,' Château La Dominique stated.
Benjamin Laforet of Château Angélus said. 'To simply translate the crisp side of the Merlot, with its freshness and floral notes, we had to preserve and protect them so carefully.'
Fourth, flavors are generally also light, fine and precise and include young ripe red fruit.
Vineyard in Saint-Émilion, Bordeaux, France
'The vintage was difficult to understand,' explained Karl Todeschini, winemaker and co-owner of Château Mangot. 'There was enormous work in the vines and a lot of thinking in the cellar. It needed lots of courage to get the expression—which is straightforward purity and delicacy.'
Fifth, of four components of fruit, acidity, tannins and alcohol, acidity appears prominent and may help wines from this vintage age well.
'The freshness is perfect and the wines will age well because of the acidity,' oenologist Philippe Nunes from right bank Bordeaux and Entre-Deux-Mers said.
'It's a vintage that, in my opinion, will keep much longer than other vintages that aren't that old,' Courdurié emphasized.
Sixth, many wines include a persistent and attractive length.
'The finish is long and comes back in successive layers,' Courdurié said, reflecting my own notes from tasting dozens of 2024 wines. 'We have a lot of precision in the wines, with refined and more precise length,' he noted.
Seventh, tannins can be low key but supple.
'Very silky, cashmere-like tannins, very elegant, very chiseled,' Courdurie noted.
Château Angelus agreed, stating that the palate includes 'rich tannins with the texture of cashmere.'
Eighth, white wines from vintage 2024 fared especially well.
Concrete fermentation tanks in Château Beauregard, Pomerol, Bordeaux, France
The year 2024 is the fourth year that Vignobles Jade has produced white wine. Owner Caroline Teycheney noted that, 'Our Bordeaux white wine has a beautiful expression and we're developing a distinct style with Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Gris and Sémillon.'
Courdurie agreed, noting that, 'It's a very good year for white wine.'
Ninth, the difference between good and poor quality wines for vintage 2024 is large. Although various winemakers mentioned that the vintage is superior to 2021, my limited tasting indicated that the range of difference between excellent and poor quality wines from this vintage is more noticeable than that of vintage 2021. Wines of poor quality from vintage 2024 include excessive green notes in both aromas and flavors and often disjointed flavors.
Tenth, wines are ready to drink now, but many are likely to keep for a long time.
'These wines that are drinkable, easy to digest. But it's also definitely a vintage to keep,' Courdurie noted.
Fresh fish and white wine during En Primeurs wine tasting in Bordeaux, France
In summary? 2024 was a challenging vintage. Winemakers with financial and technical resources and good terroir fared well, whereas those unable to put in the required hard effort faced challenges achieving quality.
Aromas from vintage 2024 can be beautifully perfumed, fruit flavors fine, light and precise, and acidity dominant to help wines age well. Many are fresh and ready to drink now, although certainly not all; a good percentage will need years to better integrate components. The length of some wines can be amazing, and this vintage favors wines. The best from Bordeaux 2024 will be remembered for lightness, delicacy and aromatic beauty.
Tasting notes for a representative selected wines are included in these two companion articles titled Bordeaux Vintage 2024 - Tasting Notes For Right Bank Red Wines, and Bordeaux Vintage 2024 Tasting Notes - Left Bank, EDM And White Wines.
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